Hey Folks,

Need some help please. About a year ago, I finally had to replace front brake rotors and pads for the first time in over 100,000 miles. The pads weren't even half worn, but the rotors were. I put Brembo rotors and ceramic pads on. After about 3,000 miles it picked up a really bad brake vibration, rotors had warped, so i replaced them again, same Brembos. Another 3,000 miles and I've had to do it again. The wear on the pads and rotors is even and the pistons move freely in the calipers. This time, I've switched to semi-metallic pads to see if that's it.

Any good suggestions would be very welcome to really get to the bottom of this.

Thanks,

Chris

 

Yes do not use Brembo's

 

I had this same problem, replaced the front discs twice due to warping. I replaced the third time with Jag genuine discs and they have been OK since

 

You're not warping discs. Read this and watch the video; https://ricksfreeautorepairadvice.co...ke-rotor-warp/
Porsche guys do track days with their street cars, getting brakes a lot hotter than you can on the streets, and those rotors don't warp. Ever watch Sebring or
Daytona races at night? The rotors glow red hot lap after lap for hours and don't warp.
Lots of reasons for brake judder, but warping cast iron discs rotors ain't one of 'em.

 

My discs were definitely warped, they were returned and checked by the supplier who refunded the costs to me....

 

Independant of the brand you select, do choose "high carbon" rotors, mening the ones made out of steel with a higher carbon content. They are more expensive, but are also much more resistant to warping.

Best regards,

Thomas

 

Get your wheels straightened out by a wheel repair shop - a legit one, if your wheels are shaking or bent then eventually the rotors will take on that same shake - I've replaced rotors for this same reason until I straightened the wheels. After the straightening put on the new rotors

 

I have had a few cars that had brake judder and I discovered that it would be cured under heavy braking, usually when coming down a steep hill. I found this link and it explained what is happening and how to properly bed in your discs and pads.

https://www.zeckhausen.com/catalog/i...Path=6446_6443

 

The main reason for bedding in the brakes is to get the best performance in braking power out of them, it does not help with warping, especially if the material of the rotors is of inferior quality.

With early supercharged cars with the Brembo system, like mine, warping was a standard defect and Jaguar actually set out a procedure about how to minimize the shuddering during braking. I did not do the procedure, because it is a bit time consuming. The first rotors I installed I had to replace after only 3,000 km because of extreme warping, the ones I have now (high carbon) are lasting since about 50,000km wiithout too much shuddering, and they don't always do it.

Best regards,

Thomas

 

Thanks everyone, all extremely helpful.

I have had to have the wheels straightened a couple of times, but I know that's not the issue this time. I'd read that the XJR is really prone to warping rotors. I'm going to get a dial indicator on the old Brembos before they go back to be sure. Sounds like set #3 will likely do the same, so I'm just going to swap them for high carbon like you recommend. Likely that's what the Duralast Gold ones were and why they survived for so long. Another return for the guys at Rock Auto....

Despite all the niggles, it's still the greatest car I've ever owned. Never going to sell it.

 

Try Zimmerman rotors. And break them in easy, regardless of what the pros say. No hard stops for 500 miles. My experience. It's not a race car.