I was just sitting in the drive way and one of the air struts blew on me after raising the suspension off the ground. It sounded like a gun going off and the drivers side front immediately fell several inches. I have been fighting with air leaks for a year and a half. After this experience I no longer have any doubts. Switching to springs as soon as I can. That was a scary experience can't imagine what it would have been like at high speed.

 

Ever hear a tire blow? Sounds like a shot from a large caliber weapon. How old, as well as miles, on them? You also spoke of letting things progress for a year and a half??? W H T F did you expect to happen??? That they would heal themselves?????? Unless i've missed something, no sympathy from me!!!!

 

I had problems right after I bought it. The previous owner told me that it would take care of itself. I know now that not to be the case. It is my first experience with a Jag or Air Suspension. However last summer it acted pretty normal. I don't drive this car much. Maybe 500 miles a year. The air suspension started leaking again this winter. I replaced what I thought to be the offending strut. It was better but, still had leak issues. I was trying to decide if I was going to abandon the CATS system when the blowout happened. I have been all over this forum trying to find good advice on the suspension and weather or not to convert to coil springs. So I guess that was my point I really didn't know what to expect that's why I posted this so others in similar positions could learn what to expect. I wish I had 8 grand to transport the car 240 miles to the nearest Jag dealer and have them replace everything but, I don't. I have loved Jags since I drove an XJ6 back in the 80s so when a "friend" offered me an 04 XJR for a very reasonable price it was hard to pass up. So here is my take on older high mileage Jags with CATS. If you have deep pockets and live near a dealership have it all replaced if not save yourself a lot of aggravation and either dump the car or the CATS. I hope this helps someone searching for answers.

 

Hi KittyCatOne,

I have moved your posts to start your own thread since it has more to do with the air spring bladder rupturing than with explaining how the air suspension works. This way, other members with similar concerns will have an easier time finding your posts.

Cheers,

Don

 

It seems as though you are feeling down right now with your car due to the unexpected costs of owning a Jaguar. I also purchased a 2004 model that had hidden problems with the suspension. However I do not have deep pockets so when I discovered my Jag sitting down in the morning due to a failing right front strut I purchased a replacement from Rock Auto and fitted it the morning after it arrived. While I understand many owners will not do their own repairs I believe that is something to account for prior to purchasing any vehicle. Especially one that is 13+ years old. I do not personally know how Jaguar compares to other models that cost $60,000 - $75,000 new, however I would guess the part costs are similar. If I did not do my own work I would have to spend the money on a new(er) car.

Many members love the Jag's air suspension many do not. Personally I do not find it that much different than other conventional suspension systems. However that is how it was designed therefore I will probably keep it.

Perhaps you can find a Jaguar club near you to join. I have found their members usually are willing to help fellow members with difficult repairs. I had been a member of the local club here in the Sacramento area but at the time my only Jaguar was my XKE project which did not allow me to participate in club events. Because I needed a larger car to transport my grandchildren in I bought the XJ8. It has its quirks but all cars do. Regardless I love it and my grand kids love the "kitty" on the hood. (They also enjoy it when I am forced to sprint away from other slower vehicles, which it will do with enthusiasm.) Perhaps when you get it sorted out you will find it more satisfying.

Good luck, your take on the conversion away from air struts is appreciated as I am you are not alone in feeling frustrated about the cost of Jaguar repairs.

 

I would suggest to anyone who is thinking of purchasing a Jaguar X350/X358 to consider a new set of Bilstein B4's in part of the TCO when you purchase the vehicle, or to get a service contract or both. Benz, Audi, Jaguar, Aston, Bentley or even now GM and Dodge use air suspensions that just like the X350, will require replacement about every 10years/100k miles.

 

Nobody ever mentions used air springs. OK you won't know how long its going to last, (it could be a long time), but these can be found on the internet (eBay), and would be a useful stand-in until you've got familiar with the car. Remember that converting to coil springs means you have to replace the whole four in one go. Better to fix it with the original air spring this time at least.

Here's one -

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Front-Air-S...768?rmvSB=true

Here's another -

https://www.ebay.com/itm/2004-2009-J...508?rmvSB=true

 

My issue seems to be the bolts on the bottom of the shocks, are sooo frozen on, PB Blaster, as well as a couple others, over the last couple days no help. Transmission fluid, Mercon SP, filter, with steel pan conversion, was done, they were soaking the whole time.The 04 had no issues, but it spent most its life down south. The 07 spent half its life here, where salt is used on the roads. The tie rod ends needed their bolt portion drilled out, the parts were rusted together so bad. The torx bit snapped, the pipe wrench was of no use either. Looks like right after ordering, & receiving, a couple of new bolts, the old ones get cut off with the welded nuts. Have to see just how to get them off, saws all, or by grinding, anyone else have a better solution??? Open to suggestions, as i'm fresh out of ideas. Heat is often the answer, but when the bolt goes through the lower arm, that has a metal, & rubber bushing. Rather weld another nut onto the shock, or better yet use a metal Stover lock nut, if their rebuilt, rather than risk ruining the bushing.

 

It's mentioned that the air spring blew after raising the suspension from the ground ... just to understand this proper, does it mean the car was jacked up and the wheel lifted off the ground before the bang?
I ask because when I recently had the car on the lift to change the O2 sensors, the mechanic asked me if there was a special lift mode that can be set, to avoid that the air springs get damaged when the car is dropped back to the ground after the suspension is totally expanded when the car is floating.
I had never heard of that, but it seems that other cars with air suspension have such a function.

Is anyone here aware of such a lifting mode on our X350s that prevents the air bladders from over-inhaling while the feet are dangling off the lifted car? And if so, how to activate it? All went well so far, but why take a risk ...

 

Wingrider,

This seems to be a relatively common problem,
Could you drill out the end of the bolt from the captive nut end, as far as the start of the bush, clear the threads of the captive nut out with a tap then punch the bolt back out?
I had a few bolts snap on my xjs when I was replacing the suspension at the back. I'd never had to drill out a bolt before and as someone else noted in a recent post the bolts used on the suspension seem to be made out of Kryptonite (although brittle), but with good quality drill bits which slowly increase in diameter and oil it wasn't half as difficult as I thought it would be.

 

There is indeed a lifting mode but it's automatic; if the system detects that the car is being jacked up, or presumably that it's being lifted, it automatically stops trying to level itself.

Edit: Yes, from the workshop manual

"Jacking Function
When the system detects that the vehicle is being jacked, or raised on a wheel-free lift, the vehicle enters jacking mode, which inhibits lowering to prevent air loss.
"Jacking mode is exited when the vehicle is driven, or the ride height passes below a threshold value."

 

Many shops won't give quotations for lower bush replacement for this reason, only estimates. At my last independent shop the technician told me they had sometimes had to remove air shock and straight arm together, take the assembly to the workbench then use hacksaw and grinder until the fork on the shock can be lifted off. Needless to say the labour charges are a lot when this has to be done, and all for a bottom bush costing £20-odd.

 

Thanks, automatic is of course the safest and most comfortable, as one should expect from a car of this category

 

Appreciate the suggestions guys, am considering using a little heat. After thinking just how many frozen brake joints, were freed up, near rubber parts, using heat in measured doses, with great results. Should things get too hot, guess a new bushing could be put in. paddyX350 had an idea not thought of by me, if moderate heat proves unsuccessful, that will probably be my next step.

 

It needs to be moderate heat, as the straight arm, (of the 2-part wishbone) is an aluminium forging and its strength could be affected if you really "cook" it. Better to remove shock and arm together and take to a bench where you can saw and grind away safely. Also replace the lower shock bush on the arm as it's likely to be worn anyway.

 

Just learned of a newer tool; Heat inducer, heats one end of a bolt, while the other stays cool. Plugs into the wall socket, supposed to have use of one over weekend sometime. New neighbor wrenches for a living, with an old Chevelle he's restoring, in his garage. Says his boss will loan him the tool over weekend, for me, or rather him, to use. Sounds like something maybe worth saving up for.

 

Stop by your local Mopar Dealer and pickup a can of MOPAR part # 4318039 solvent. Spray the assembly and allow to sit overnight.

 

Have used a variety of different solvent, release agent penetrating oils, Kroil, P B Blaster, as well as trans fluid, to no avail!!!!! The inducer heater looks promising from the internet, Saw one from China for $120, delivered.

 

No luck with heater. With a breaker bar, as well as a piece of pipe, the lower shock bolt finally broke loose, with a loud snap. No luck though, as the bushing is frozen into the rear lower arm. Was spreading the shock apart on the bottom, till clamping it back in shape, so it can still be driven. So what all needs to come out, to remove the shock & the arm, while they are still together, as a unit?