In order to extract the alternator from the car, after dismounting it, do I have the choice of removing the right side engine mount or removing the radiator fan assembly? If the radiator assembly is viable, how much has to come out? If both approaches are viable, is there a clear winner? The last question my be influenced by the fact my car has seen 7 New England winters.

 

Alternator, belt, tensioner, idler pully bearing, starter, radiator, thermostat, with housing, both water pumps, & hoses.
All removed, then replaced would be a good way, with some room to work, & get a lot done.
The other way, using a lift, is how i did both of mine,
Did the starter & alternator, at the same time while i was there

 

So I can remove the alternator by bring it forward after removing the radiator and it's ancillary paraphernalia? As you say it would be a good opportunity to freshen things up and I wouldn't have to jack the engine up. Is this correct?

 

Speculation on my part, from what i have seen, for the top way.
Have not actually done the job that way though.

 

removing the motor mount takes like 5 minutes and gives you the room you need. by the book you take the mount with the bracket that bolts to the engine, they're like T50 or something.

 

It should come out rearward. You have to move it forward off of the little stud that has the nut. You might have to take the steering rack loose from the mounts and tie it up for clearance after the motor mount is removed

 

Thank you all. Wish me luck. Everything is so rusted, fastener heads are rounded and threads are frozen. New England winters are car killers. I'll post the results but it may not be quick or pretty.

 

Everything has to be accessed from the bottom. Lift is best of course but 18 inches on stands is how i did my 06 str with the passenger tire off. The 4.2 is the same for both. Even the wheel liner off or pulled back. The alt plug is tricky. I took mine alt loose and then the plug was easy with more working room

 

Will have mine done by a mecanic during next week i suppose . Ordered 2 new engine mounts and 1 engine transmission mount .

 

I should have finished this thread earlier. My starting, alternator and starter motor issues were all do to a poor engine ground. Most cars have the battery in the engine compartment and the battery ground goes directly to the engine, by far the largest amperage draw (the starter). With the battery in the trunk and the ground strap to the unibody, the strap from the engine to the body is responsible for engine sensor grounding, alternator output delivery and starter grounding. The poor engine ground resulted in low voltages at sensors (causing engine running issues), frying the alternator and replacement of a good starter. It's been 6 months since I cleaned the ground strap and everything is fine. Aluminum can show little corrosion with little electrical continuity. If there had been no electrical continuity, the problem would have been easy to find. Use dielectric grease on all aluminum connections.