Hi all was in the process of changing my front wheel hub bearing and have found that that little mite is well and truly stuck. I have used penetrating fluid hammers of various sizes, a chisel and a lot of heat. Nothing i do will budge the little sod, my next move is to take vertical link off and take to someone with a press or just buy a new link to added to the preventative maintenance of the future.

My questions is i can see that you need an allen key to hold the spline of eat of the bolts on the upper arm, tie rod end lower control arm while you undo with a spanner otherwise everything will just spin. I have no problem getting this off my only questions is how do i re-torque the bolts when i put them back on if i cant use socket or the spline will spin.

Any help would be nice as weather is finally warm enough here in UK to start going outside again. Also from the bashing on the bearing i can know only get 3 of the 4 bolts back in so will need to fix before any long distance driving starts again.

 

Hi
I just had a look at the drawing on my X350 Technical Notes. I think you're going to have to take off the vertical "swan neck" link, and press out the hub carrier from the rear. It's probably a tight fit in the vertical link, anbd corrosion has done it's work, Aluminium and steel together methinks..

 

thank you think you are tight i found guy up the road that will do it for me at a machine shop cheap. as i said main thing is the bolts on the upper lower and tie rod need to be undo with a spanner and an allen key to stop the spindle spinning. I can get them undo easy just how do i retorque as i cant get a torquewrench on there as the bolt will spin with the spindle

 

I assume you mean the nut will spin ? It's not clear on the diagram, but normally these ball joint fixings are on a taper. At a certain point the taper faces provide suficcient grip to allow the nut to be torqued-up. Only thing is the nut is normally a nyloc self-locking nut, and these can bind on the thread once the nylon insert is reached, but before the taper has gripped. So what most mechanics have to do is force the tapers together with a bar or something, whilst doing up the nut. Be careful, though, with this, because the parts are aluminium and much more easily damaged than the steel forgings Jaguar used to use.

 

ahh this makes more sense now so if they get to a point then lock that is all i need to know. Just have to wait for tomorrow so can take it to the machine shop get it done and ordered new nuts at the same time from jag then. I have a jaguar enthusiastic magazine and the show steps to change a vertical link on an s type but it doesnt mention these nuts thats where i got lost. On my lexus it was just simple nut and spindle and then put stupid amounts of torque to tighten no nyloc for toyota parts. just wanted to double check before i take apart and then find cant re tighten everything that you for helping me out

 

just had a look at the the specs and can see that for example the upper nut is only 90nm. so now this makes sense with the use of nyloc so new news ordered in the morning and get my baby running good again

 

Hi James

I am not aware these nuts are anything special, at least they didn't used to be, they were boggo-standard nylocs, although you need to match the depth of the nut, and make sure thread pokes through the nylon insert else they don't lock ! These nuts are available in stainless steel too, from a supplier in the West Riding of Yorkshire - Dave Middleton.

 

Thank you once again for the help shall have a look up. Pretty sure my grandfather has mention something about dave Middleton. Hopefully everything comes apart easy in the morning had bad experience with tie rod end fusing itself to ballpoint arm on my Lexus angle grinder and new tie rod/ball joint arm needed after and a new press as it bent mine

 

Thank you help new bearing in now because I would need alignment when taking vertical link off, I got the shop that was pushing the bearing out to do whole job. only 140 inc vat for taking everything apart pressing bearing and then alignment all while having a power cut and being a merc vag specialist while most staff used to work for Honda so it ended good. No more groaning while turning at high speed but still have annoying vibration at 60ish so checking the prop and diff next and centre bearings for play so can get my baby running like she did day she was built