XJ XJ6 / XJ8 / XJR ( X350 & X358 ) 2003 - 2009

Bonnet latch and coolant sensor issues

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Old Mar 29, 2021 | 10:52 AM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by mhamilton
So the big dips in the red graph line are when you are spraying the TB cleaner? That would be normal--the solvent spray is acting like fuel and the O2 sensors see this, so the ECM tries to pull back the fuel trims (make them more negative) to reduce the fuel from the injectors. If so, you've found (part) of your problem.

The hose from the TB to the PCV has o-rings in those connectors. You can try and replace them if you have suitable sizes, or as a temp repair. Otherwise that PCV hose is available from Jaguar and may be the better solution, since the plastic hose is known to crack with age.
Yes, that's right, the dips where when I was spraying the TB cleaner around the hose. I take it that if the hose was perfect, that wouldn't happen? I've ordered the PCV hose and valve from Jaguar as they weren't very expensive, only negative is that they take 6 weeks to arrive. Hopefully that will sort it out.
 
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Old Mar 29, 2021 | 12:36 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by geekman
Yes, that's right, the dips where when I was spraying the TB cleaner around the hose. I take it that if the hose was perfect, that wouldn't happen? I've ordered the PCV hose and valve from Jaguar as they weren't very expensive, only negative is that they take 6 weeks to arrive. Hopefully that will sort it out.
Yes that is correct. If the seals were good it would not be able to suck in the TB cleaner and there would be no change in the fuel trim readings. Right now it's sucking in unmetered air (after the MAF sensor) and that is causing the engine to run lean. The PCM tries to correct this by increasing the fuel trims (positive) until it gets to the limit for adjustment and set the codes you see for "engine too lean." When you spray the TB cleaner it sucks in the solvent which is enriching the mixture, and you see the sudden negative spike in fuel trims (PCM trying to lean out the mixture).

Let us know how it goes with the new parts.
 
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Old Mar 29, 2021 | 06:08 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by mhamilton
Yes that is correct. If the seals were good it would not be able to suck in the TB cleaner and there would be no change in the fuel trim readings. Right now it's sucking in unmetered air (after the MAF sensor) and that is causing the engine to run lean. The PCM tries to correct this by increasing the fuel trims (positive) until it gets to the limit for adjustment and set the codes you see for "engine too lean." When you spray the TB cleaner it sucks in the solvent which is enriching the mixture, and you see the sudden negative spike in fuel trims (PCM trying to lean out the mixture).

Let us know how it goes with the new parts.
Excellent, that's what I thought. I'll update you when the parts arrive (in about a century!). Thanks again for your help.
 
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Old Mar 30, 2021 | 02:03 PM
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Old Mar 31, 2021 | 02:48 PM
  #25  
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Accurate
 
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Old Apr 27, 2021 | 07:39 AM
  #26  
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Wait, does `06 hood still open at rear? Cause I am having same problem on `01 I just bought. I must be confused. A 9-inch screwdriver through the grill will open the latch all the way back by the windshield?
 
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Old Apr 27, 2021 | 01:59 PM
  #27  
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Both the 04, & 07, in my garage open from the front.
 
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Old May 10, 2021 | 07:23 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by mhamilton
Yes that is correct. If the seals were good it would not be able to suck in the TB cleaner and there would be no change in the fuel trim readings. Right now it's sucking in unmetered air (after the MAF sensor) and that is causing the engine to run lean. The PCM tries to correct this by increasing the fuel trims (positive) until it gets to the limit for adjustment and set the codes you see for "engine too lean." When you spray the TB cleaner it sucks in the solvent which is enriching the mixture, and you see the sudden negative spike in fuel trims (PCM trying to lean out the mixture).

Let us know how it goes with the new parts.
So, the new parts arrived, I fitted them, and they seem to have made no difference whatsoever. Still get the same codes, and after 3 decent length drives, the check engine light comes back on. I don't have a smoke machine, but I was thinking of trying to use a cigar or something to smoke out the leak. Any idea where the easiest place is for me to blow smoke in there? I've seen some people use machines which screw into where the oil cap usually is, but not sure if I'd be able to blow smoke in there with it running.
 
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