XJ XJ6 / XJ8 / XJR ( X350 & X358 ) 2003 - 2009

Car gone haywire after disconnecting battery

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Old Jul 7, 2014 | 05:38 AM
  #1  
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Default Car gone haywire after disconnecting battery

My fault, I know some things about cars in general. I was trying to upgrade my nav disk to a 2011-12 version and it wasn't upgrading, so I thought I should disconnect the battery to do a hard reboot of everything. Well, after I connected the battery and turned on car, nav screen went dead, the engine will start but it dies now after a few seconds, instrumental panel is dark as well. I barely able made it to the closest shop by revving the engine and putting trans in Neutral if I hit a stoplight so engine won't die. Did I just blew fuses or what did I do?I would like to try to fix car before Jaguar dealership opens up and has a hayday with excessive quotes to fix the car. Also, I was doing a code 917 after I pushed Menu and Phone at the same time while holding buttons and did a software upload which I shouldn't have as I read about this procedure in the forum so maybe that's another problem I created. I have found a Loading.kwi thing on this forum and I burned it on a DVD so I can try to fix the nav portion (at least). Help!!! asap please before repair shop take advantage and this may help push me into bankruptcy.
 

Last edited by philc850; Jul 7, 2014 at 05:42 AM. Reason: added comments
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Old Jul 8, 2014 | 03:50 PM
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These cars really do not like to have the battery disconnected, much more so than any other Jag I have done this too (95 XJ6, 1999 XK8, 2001 XK8, 2001 S-Type).

I did this on my 2006 Super V8 after the Bluetooth module stopped working and generated an error message. Good news is that Bluetooth started working but the first 20 miles the car barely ran, erratic idle, stalling, bad shift points, windows lost index, bunch of other stuff.

Good news is that over the next 3 days, everything started working better and better. Keep driving it, should settle down.
 
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Old Jul 8, 2014 | 06:50 PM
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Try charging the battery. But disconnect the battery first unless the charger says specifically that it can charge without disconnecting (eg a Ctek charger). Then disconnect the charger, re-connect the battery (if you have to), and start the car straight away.

If the 'system' is booting up on a low voltage because the battery condition is poor that could be an explanation. X350s are well known for throwing system 'wobblies' if the battery condition is anything less than A1. If charging the battery and then starting the car works then it indicates you probably need a new battery.
 
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Old Jul 9, 2014 | 08:16 AM
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+1 on the battery. I would get that checked for sure. I have also found that things settle in after a short period of running although my issues were never as severe as yours.
 
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Old Jul 9, 2014 | 03:37 PM
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+1 on the battery

You can test the battery is 12.6 Volts with the engine off. this is the normal condition. From memory it fails at 12.2 Volts or below

Best advice I can give you is purchase a mongoose cable and setup SDD.
You can then scan the car yourself which is always handy before you take the car in as you already know the faults

In any case SDD will tell you what is going wrong and how to fix it. I suspect some of the modules, probably the FEM or REM are not working correctly and need to be re flashed. Faults in these can trigger the engine to shutdown as you discribe as they link into the alarm system. This is a guess but you need to check with SDD and alll will be reveled.

Maybe another member can help you out that has SDD

Cheers
34by151
 
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Old Jul 9, 2014 | 03:49 PM
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If your car drives now and you can assume it's charged the battery a simple shut off and restart of the car should fix this problem. If it doesn't then you have other troubles then low battery ones and a DTC-read out may be needed to find what's wrong.

Guus
 
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Old Jul 24, 2014 | 03:56 PM
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Default Problem solved

For the benefit of anyone that might encounter the same problem. My battery is brand new factory OEM. So it wasn't the battery. Problem was solved this way:
1) Turn on ignition and load DVD Map. In my case it was the newer version 2011-2012 which I bought from Navteq.
2) Right after DVD Map load, turn off ignition and remove key for at least 30 seconds.
3) Re-insert ignition key and turn on engine.
4) Wait 5-10 minutes
5) Voila! Everything cured! the Nav screen went back online and everything was back to normal.
6) Saved me potential $5,000-$10,000+ the Jaguar dealership was trying to rip me off of with a simple procedure I am sure they knew but didn't want to share.
7) the new updated 2011-12 DVD map has better color, graphics and slightly better functionality than the older 8-10 year old DVD map I had in the car. Nothing really changed: the British accent is the same and the green Jaguar Logo is the same. Just a lot better - it brought my Nav in line with the current generation of NAV GPS that most cars now have.
I highly recommend 2011-12 Map DVD from Navteq or Jaguar dealership
7) Someone posted this process in one of the forums so that person was a great blessing for having posted it because it helped me. I hope someone benefits from my post as well.
8) fyi: a separate upload.kwi file is not really needed because this is within/inside/imbeddded in this new DVD Map. You just load the new DVD Map and the Nav system should read it automatically so you don't need to source it from somewhere else. Or if you want to verify, you can do Explorer and read the contents of the Map DVD and you'll see that its in there.
9) I'm so happy after I cured this problem and I want others to be happy as well in case they encounter same issue.
10) My car drives like a dream.
 
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Old Jul 24, 2014 | 04:02 PM
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I'm glad you solved your DVD problem but was this the fix for your car running bad too???

Guus
 
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Old Jul 25, 2014 | 09:23 AM
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Default To Xag

No, my car was running fine and perfect before this all happened.
 
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Old Jul 25, 2014 | 11:32 AM
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In your first post I got the impression that what you did with the dvd also created other problems (bad running) with your car. I was just wondering if that went away too with the procedure you described above.

Guus
 
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Old Jul 28, 2014 | 10:39 AM
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Yes, the bad running engine I think normally happens when you improperly disconnect the battery (if you're not a Jaguar professional and don't know how to do it like I am). The bad running engine was cured when I changed the Fuses related to the ECM/ignition. The fuses didn't look damaged but I changed them anyways and the engine started to run better (that is, it wasn't dying - it wasn't setting the idle to 0mph anymore). You have to drive the engine some miles for it to relearn the correct idling (maybe 15-30 miles). Changing of the fuses cured the engine but it didn't cure the blank navigation screen and all related controls in that nav screen (radio, phone, AC, etc.). The steps in my prior posts cured it. So car drives like a dream like it did before after all this mess I made myself.
 
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Old Jul 28, 2014 | 01:20 PM
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Thans for the clarification and congrats for solving it!

Guus
 
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Old Aug 8, 2015 | 02:24 PM
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I just thought I repost the cure for my own easy reference that I did to cure the irregular idling and "Cannot Apply Parkbrake" issue after the non-Jaguar car repair shop disconnected the battery and caused the irregular idling to stalling problem:
1) Disconnect negative cable from battery and leave it disconnected overnight.
2) Reconnect battery cable.
3) Make sure to change ALL fuses related to ECM, ignition and EPB.
4) Everything is fixed. (There is no need to step on accelarator nor brake deals nor leaving key in the ignition, etc.) BUT you need to drive the car about 30 miles for the ECM to relearn the idling settings.
5) This simple steps will save a trip and $ without having going to the Jaguar dealership. This is the 2nd time this same situation happened when the battery was disconnected. The car is very sensitive if the battery is disconnected without having continuous power to the required electrical/computer components.
 
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Old Aug 9, 2015 | 12:09 PM
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Originally Posted by philc850
For the benefit of anyone that might encounter the same problem. My battery is brand new factory OEM. So it wasn't the battery. Problem was solved this way:

3) Re-insert ignition key and turn on engine.
Thanks for the info Phil, but a clarification please on the above? When you say turn on engine, do you mean start the car or turn on the ignition to position 1 or 2?

Thanks
 
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Old Aug 9, 2015 | 01:54 PM
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And also when you say change "ALL" fuses, do you just mean pull them from the socket and re-insert them? Changing them seems illogical as they don't hold any electrical energy?
 
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Old Aug 9, 2015 | 03:58 PM
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Default Car gone haywire after disconnecting battery

Originally Posted by trosty
And also when you say change "ALL" fuses, do you just mean pull them from the socket and re-insert them? Changing them seems illogical as they don't hold any electrical energy?
Same thing I was thinking...
 
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Old Aug 9, 2015 | 04:48 PM
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Here is the recommendation I received after disconnecting the battery:

1. Make sure the A/C is off.
2. Hard reset - disconnect both battery terminals hold them together for 15-20 sec. reconnect the positive, then as cleanly and smoothly as possible connect the negative.
3. Start the car with your foot off the brake (DO NOT TOUCH ANYTHING) - at this point the car will still idle wildly, continue to let it run for 2 minutes, remarkably the idle smooths out. Again, do not touch anything!
4. When the idle stabilizes at a normal rpm reset the parking brake (and windows)
5. Switch the A/C on and do not adjust anything, let it run for an additional 3 minutes.
6. Test drive - everything should check out fine


This worked perfectly for me when I installed my ACM and had issues after the install.
 
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Old Aug 10, 2015 | 05:02 AM
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Sean,
Yes. that's what I meant. There were suggestions of after disconnecting and then reconnecting the battery for hard reset to step on the accelerator pedal for 5 seconds with ignition in position 2, then switch to position 0 for 2 minutes.
Frosty,
I mean replace them. Pulling and reinserting the same fuse won't do a thing. I did that before and checked if they were defective with a fuse tester and they don't seem to be....but it didn't work. what worked was when i replaced the fuses. As you know Jaguars are so sensitive to electrical issues so maybe a fuse/fuses were partially damaged during the reconnection of the battery. who knows but my solution worked 2nd time without trip to the Jag service shop.
Marc B,
The hard reset doesn't or didn't work at all in my case. I did same thing you just mentioned to do and didn't work at all, the first time it happened and the 2nd time it happened. I'm sticking to my own solution - simple, easy, headache and worrisome free. I just posted the above for my own reference so I can retrieve it when it happens again. Last time it happened was over a year ago so I couldn't remember exactly what I did so it'll be here on the forums for my own easy reference.
 
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