To remove the belt, remove the tensioner. It's secured by only one bolt.

Use your endoscope or a mirror to inspect the area below the water pump for signs of coolant leakage. It's easier with an endoscope.

You're doing fine. Keep taking plenty of photos so you'll know how to put everything back together. I put groups of fasteners in Ziploc bags with a paper label inside describing where the fasteners go, and if necessary I draw a diagram to show, for example, which holes longer screws go in, etc. This makes reassembly much easier.

Cheers,

Don

 

I, too, felt in over my head. Not until the last few days did that change. At times, I felt for sure I would be sending her to the bone yard. However, now the floor under the car is bone dry. Not even oil; so replacing the cam covers paid off. I'm enjoying that so much that I would like to never replace the bottom cover.

After removing the wipers, I thought the cowling would break before I got it off. I persevered and it came off. When it did, I asked myself why I had made that so difficult.

Every time I was sure that no more coolant was left, somehow, there was.

Have you found the hose that was actually leaking yet?

Hang in there, if I did it. You certainly can!

Best,

Steve

 

Forgive the poor writing. My fingers are too large & the print too small & my gait too brisk! Love this phone, but ...

 

Is she still running good Steve!
I followed all your work and it was quite a list!
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Thanks Don. I will scope the water pump later today after work or tomorrow. I have been taking lots of photos and have been putting all the fasteners in ziplock bags.

I guess removing the tensioner was an obvious answer in hindsight. I just couldn't believe that that was how they would design the system, seems ludicrous.

 

Does the scuttle cover pull out away from the windscreen or down towards the engine?

No, I haven't located the leak yet. I'm going to use my scope on the water pump later today or tomorrow.

 

Thanks, Clubairth. Yes, I successfully replaced all coolant hoses, the water pump (after removing a broken bolt that the garage had broken years before.), cam covers, & a few things that broke along the way. I'm pleased to report she runs like new!

Mr. White, I hope you are successful in finding the leak soon. Since it sounds like it was a big leak, I would think the endoscope will find it. I know the hose that was leaking on my car and feigning the valley hose had about a 3" gash where she had let go. As to the plastic piece right under the wipers, I recall it pulling down from the windshield. It was pretty hard to get it started, but once it did start, easy peasy. I recall starting at the passenger side end.

Best,

Steve S.

 

The scuttle cover lifts straight up from the windshield. There is a tab running its entire length that fits into a groove at the base of the windshield. I started at one end and moved towards the center, then went around and started at the other end.

And yeah, service manuals do NOT give methods, only sequences; they assume they're being read by trained mechanics, but the first time across any situation is always difficult.

 

Skuttle cover fits onto this:

 

Hi Mr White
The scuttle cover pulls away from the windscreen, upwards. The cover has a ridge running across it that fits into a groove in a strip glued to the windscreen. When I have to remove it I use a very thin plastic trim tool. I lever up the cover on one side edge and unclip the ridge from the groove. I then fit the trim tool into the gap and push it across the screen, lifting the cover as I go. It's like a zip. Refitting it is the opposite. Line up the cover in the correct place. Press one side edge into the clip, then run your hand across the bottom of the screen, clicking the cover into place as you go. A couple of hits with the heel of your hand to ensure it's fully home and that's it. When it's in the right place the top edge will be tightly in contact with the glass.

Pete M

 

Thanks all. I got the scuttle off. I then removed the shock tower braces. Then the cast air intake. I haven't figured out yet how to remove the false plastic bulkhead. I removed the supercharger serpentine belt tensioner and the belt. I used the main belt tensioner to release the main serpentine belt. I removed the pulley on the water pump so that I could see the pump.

When I look at the area around the water pump, and in general the whole front face of the engine it look really dirty. I would have said a mix of oil and dust, but maybe coolant too.






With a pick and a stiff brush it scrapes off:



I'm not sure if this might indicate a leaking water pump? If so, it must've been leaking for ages for this much dirt to get stuck to the front of the engine. I still think, though, that it's more likely that this crud has oil in it.

I then took my endoscope and ran it behind the water pump. I'm not sure exactly what I'm looking at. Below are two of the images I saved with the scope.



The first image is of a big drop of coolant on the underside of the supercharger. I'm not sure exactly what I'm looking at in the second image. Perhaps some padding or insulation between the engine and the supercharger? If so, It looks rather saturated.




So, does all of this make you think water pump or valley hose?

Oh, I also noticed some sludge in one of the coolant pipes. This is the one immediately to the left of the cast air intake (it has the giant allen key cap above it for filling the supercharger radiator:




Here's a photo after the cast air intake was removed:




As always, thoughts, comments, and suggestions are greatly appreciated.

I'm going to attempt to remove the thermostat tower next.

 

The drop of coolant under the water pump is probably from the pump weep hole or gasket. As I mentioned before, the high ledge at the front of the block tends to prevent coolant leaked from a valley hose from making its way to the front of the engine. Many of our members have reported success with the ACDelco water pump ($64 at Rock Auto). The pump Jaguar has been selling as a replacement is the Airtex, but Rock Auto does not currently show it as available (Airtex is a major Ford OEM).

That noise/heat insulation pad is some sort of foam encased in a plastic bag, and it always looks nasty, especially if a valley hose has been leaking.

The sludge in the supercharger coolant port is very concerning and suggests that a previous owner put incorrect coolant in the system. I would recommend a full system flush. I do it while I have all the varous hoses disconnected so I can more easily flush each part of the system and can tell if any section is obstructed. Hopefully your heater core is not solidly clogged.

To remove the plastic false bulkhead, there are a few nuts or screws at each end, some of which require a 1/4" drive ratchet and maybe a 6-inch extension to fit between hoses and such. Once you have all the nuts or screws removed, it's a bit of a job to work the bulkhead up and out. You just have to carefully angle it and tug it until it comes free. I think I usually get it out from the left/U.S. driver's side of the car. Getting it back in is equally challenging. Take care not to break any hoses or wiring in the process.

I don't think I've mentioned, but when you get back to the EGR valve and throttle body, a 1/4-inch ratchet, extensions of various lengths up to around 12 inches, and a flex-joint will help you access some of the screws and nuts. Trying to get to them with 3/8-inch drive tools will make a hard job harder or impossible.

Cheers,

Don

 

To add to Don's excellent advice, when removing the secondary bulkhead center panel, the manual says to remove the heater hoses that go onto the firewall as they pass in front of the plastic bulkhead and prevent its removal.
I didn't realize that when removing mine the first time, and I fractured the Y-connector plastic fittings that feed the rear aircon. It this happens, you can bypass the rear aircon heater by using a straight piece of hose.
I found that the remote cable hose clamp tool was essential to access the hose clamps on the firewall. On my car, which is RHD the heater hoses pass from the right side of the car across to the left side. On LHD they stay on the right side, I think.
There are a number of plastic expanding rivet fittings securing the secondary bulkhead. There is some insulation glued to the bulkhead, but this deteriorates with age.
The instructions for removal are in Section 501-02, under Secondary Bulkhead Center Panel, around page 5609.

Pete M

Pete M

 

The belt is badly cracked and needs replaced before you reassemble the front end.

Just a note on the WP? All Jaguar 4.0L, 4.2L and Lincoln 3.9L engines use the same water pump. So It's fairly common and easy to get.

Really don't like the look of that coolant sludge and I would follow Don's advice as I bet that is just the tip of the iceberg so to speak?
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Not sure why you're really asking about the water pump when you've got it fully exposed. Just replace it. They're not that expensive, and you do NOT want to have to get to that point of disassembly again because you left it and it fails completely in a few weeks or months.

 

I suppose that I was wondering if the entire problem was the water pump and not the valley hose. If that was the case, I could change the pump and not bother removing the supercharger.

However, I’ve removed so much stuff already that I probably should press on and do the whole job.

 

@MrWhite Mr. White,
Have you checked to make sure it isn't the supercharger coolant pump? There are 3 pumps on these cars, main coolant, supercharger coolant, and heater. I've had the SC pump fail and leak and the expansion tank vent nipple. I'd be sure before I took a dive into the Valley of the Hoses.

 

I am late to this post and admittedly did not read fully..but just wantched a video on YouTube by TJM The Jag Man about his XJR and work he had done on his valley hoses, etc. Great pix in the video

Just FYI

 

 

Speaking of S/C and cooling, I am not sure I understand how does one decouple engine cooling from S/C cooling without adding a separate pump (might have missed something in the video, also I am completely clueless about this stuff)
...anyways, this sparked my interest:
Guy even shows temp difference at the end.