Dear Forum,
The title says it!
Regards.

 

"Up the creak without a paddle shift".

All my rubber bushings have recently been replaced. Hard to tell by looking, needs a crowbar to see if they have movement.

 

Yes, I was lazily hoping to get to the nub, Neasdon!

 

Should do the same, right side, when turning hard LEFT - or soon will do.

(Anti) sway bar 'bushings' - if not also end linkages - highly likely?

Not that others bits among the suspension components are fully ruled out.

 

Thanks Bill,
Just been waiting for things to cool down a bit here...Will cut out the laziness and get under with my crowbar very soon...

 

Buncha XJ8-L overdues, here - but blessed to have had a long dry spell and more forecast, so I'm concentrating on getting "42 Square" worth of re-roofing - "progressed" - on the house.

What with new sheathing, as least the new insulation goes in easier from openings up top!

So will rain ......if I don't get it done SOON!

 

Okay, I have been under there with my crowbar. Now that I have heard this noise a couple more times, it is more of a 'graunching' noise than a creak? Only when turning sharp right at speed?
I replaced quite a bit of the front suspension a few thousand kilometers ago. I can find nothing loose EXCEPT my shock absorber bushing, which is soft enough to allow the 'fork' on the end of the shock to be twisted around a little from side to side!
Could this be the problem, please? Would this be classed as an urgent, stop driving, must do immediately?
In any event, I guess I had better get around to replacing it sooner rather than later!

 

Bill, you were right (as usual)...Front Driver's Sway Bar End Link!
Here is a useful diagnosis for any other clueless (like myself) in the future:

https://www.google.ae/search?q=what+...JBe_jn6g,st:29

 

There is no one general cure for creaking noises from nowhere from X350 front end. I didn't notice anyone writing about this, but make sure that front subframe rear bolts are not loose. Why? The workshop manual in the section on tightening the front subframe is written quite convolutedly and you can overtighten these rear bolts. They can't stand it, they stretch out, it's only twelve.

 

Hello Peter,
My workshop manual states 115 Nm for the front subframe rear bolts?

 

Yes, this is written in the torque specifications table at the very beginning of chapter 204-01 "Front suspension", but, when You are for example on section Front Stabilizer Bar /involved with front subframe removal and centering/ - (60.10.01), they say 100Nm + 270 deg. - some can understand it for both fron and rear bolts, but this is only for front. I once understood it this way and after some time I had loose rear bolts and a creaking noise on hills and on the left when I turned right and vice versa. I would also not stick to the recommendation of 115 Nm for the rear bolts, it is not enough, these are typical hardened bolts with the 10.9 standard, you can easily give them 150-180 Nm. We need to be aware that the subframe bolts are not bolted into the body, they are held by floating nuts that have a lot of play at the top. Therefore, there is a high risk that the subframe will move if it is tightened too tightly or too weakly of cors. The first sign that the subframe moves is a slight loss of alignment/geometry and a shaking of the steering wheel and or slightly pulling the car off the road, before even a squeaking noise appears.