Folks,

Sorry if this is a FAQ, or has been answered. I did search, honest

So; got to do the heads on my 05 X350 4.2L NA. The one thing I don't have is access to a ramp, and space for that matter; so in an effort to do everything from the top, I was wondering how accessible the exhaust manifold-to-head bots are, and whether these are a stud-and-nut or bolt arrangement.

Any pointers and/or experiences gratefully received.

Thanks in advance.

 

The X350 Workshop Manual - Powertrain indicates exhaust studs that are "replaced". I would read the book before seeing what the factory suggests. You will probably not have to follow the book completely, but it is a good starting point.

I personally would not try to do what you are attempting without good jack stands. I have made do with any jack I could get but stands are more important than ramps. You will need to get under the car at some point and they are not that expensive. Do not try 4"x4" wood blocks. The risk is not worth it.. You will need full access to both the top side and the bottom side. Things like draining fluids and removing the underbody shields are much quicker if the vehicle is raised.

Good luck, it might be a lot of work but it is doable.

 

Access to the head manifold bolts is... possible but difficult. I have replaced the head gaskets on a X350 and I did all the disassembly / assembly of the exhaust manifolds off the car.

Ramps or jack stands come in handy (and are perhaps 100% required?) in this job in a few respects, off the top of my head:

1. the A/C compressor (get the AC drained) and power steering pump have to come off, having the car elevated gives you room to work on these parts;
2. you will need to drain the oil after the changing the heads (when you take the heads off, coolant will flow into the oil pan and you'll need to drain it thoroughly before startup;
3. the coolant will need to be drained and then refilled;
4. when you set the timing, the flex plate hold tool gets installed where the crank sensor goes, which is directly below the engine, and you will need access; and
5. with the manifolds off the car, you can sand them flat before reinstall to remove any heat/age-induced warp.

This is a large, complicated job, but it is possible with the right tools:

1. ramps, jack stands, and 2 jacks is useful
2. I used an engine lift and hooks to lift the heads + manifolds off and to reset the new ones in place given the weight involved
3. you'll need the Jaguar timing tools, I used ebay versions, these have both the cam hold down bars as well as the crank sensor replacement locking pin
4. you'll need the Jaguar crank removal tool (big $$$) or the ebay alternative (like $100) -- do NOT use the timing tools to hold the crank
5. a cheap ebay endoscope camera is super useful in aligning things
6. lots of scotch bright pads or similar for cleaning surfaces, plastic razor blades and 800 grit sandpaper is also helpful in cleaning

And that's without doing any of the valve work yourself (I outsourced it).

Best of luck, the end results can be quite satisfying.

 

@Rancheroguy @scooterforever

Much obliged gents. Not done the AJ34 engines yet, but have done the 26/27, the V12 (which is an absolute nightmare) and others, so this is one for the books

I'll be sure to take photos and share.

Thanks again.

Ahmed.

 

Here's my thread on the head gasket replacement: https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...one-go-243658/. I also omitted a tool, you need a fuel line quickrelease tool for the fuel supply.

 

#2 is a good tip. Years ago a mechanic taught me:
Following cylinder head work, drain the oil after a short run-in time . You will be appalled at how bad the oil looks.