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Does anyone have a head removal tool or cad drawings or drawings with dimensions of the tool.
Yes I have decided to replace the head gasket on the A side. Jag runs well but losing a small amount of coolant and can see where the corrosion is making it's way up a head bolt.
It is either replace the gasket or the engine with a chevy. I already have an XJ-6 with a chev. Love it but love the V 12 as well.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Jack
Thank you for your reply. One of the keys is coolant around one of the head bolts. It runs great but hot after about fifty miles. And blowing water out the cap on the expansion tank. I am well aware of the bleeding process and also elevate the front of the car when bleeding. I am not finished re bleeding. We will see. Not in hurry to get started. A winter project if it comes to that. I have XJ-6 and my jeep to drive. I drive the XJ-S around town and on short trips now.
Again, thanks for your input.
If you are talking about the middle of the head, I could see where you have something. If you are talking the edge where a hose runs by or where the top hat seals on the coolant pipe could toss some coolant around, I would double check before digging in.
The XJS will easily overheat in that kind of time with bad thermostats or maybe air in the system. Also, if its running hot, maybe the cap is bad and not holding pressure and airflow in the engine is blowing coolant around?
Not trying to tell you that you are absolutely wrong. I would just be dead sure it is a head gasket issue before spending all the time and money on it.
I am aware of all of your suggestions. All hoses are new with new thermostats. And I am
very careful when I bleed the system. I also replaced both caps. It is interesting that only the expansion tank cap will allow coolant to blow out. It should be going onto the overflow hose from the expansion tank. It maybe plugged from the cap.
The coolant around the stud is a center stud. One stud on the "A" side nothing on "B" side. This situation could also account for the right side appear at the end of the pipes to be running richer. I am straight piped with no cats. 2.5 inches.
With only one stud appearing to be corroded, the head may not be so reluctant to come off. To do it properly I think I will find a tool to not risk the chance of head damage.
It will probably be a winter project. Am building a Ford Model A engine at the moment. Bare block. No inserts, poured mains and rod bearings. Setting tolerances has been fun. A number of shims. Setting the rods today. Anyway, I agree that all options should be explored before moving ahead with the V12. I have even explored the option of removing the drive train from the XJ-6 and putting it in the XJ-S. But I love the V12.
Again I appreciate your input and suggestions,
Jack
Merle, Do you have another way of contacting Jon Wallace. I tried emailing him to no avail. Maybe another email address or phone?
I appreciate your help.
314,
I would maybe pull nut at offending stud and clean and seal washer to head with appropriate sealant and refit nut and retouque.
Could also switch position of caps and see if blowoff follows cap. You may have faulty cap or maybe damaged seat at header tank neck.
Nothing to lose and certainly beats pulling head unnecessarily.
Thank you for your ideas. I checked B side yesterday and found several studs with coolant surrounding them. OH well.I am thinking seriously about putting the drive train from my XJ-6 ( Chev 355 Vortec) into the XJS. It is very reliable and never overheats. No issues what so ever. A lot more power as well and less weight. I think I can make the switch for less money than changing both head gaskets on the V12.
V 12 Head removal tool
