Dash warning "Cruise Control Not Available"
Bought an '07 XJ8 VDP a few weeks ago and one three occasions when I started the car I got a warning in the odometer window that the cruise control was not available. What causes that? If I turn off the car and turn it back on the warning goes away, but I still want to know why it happens and if there's something I can do to prevent it from happening again. Thanks.
Low battery voltage most likely. I had the same issue not long ago, take it for a good long drive or hook up a suitable battery tender. IIRC there was a thread on here somewhere about some tenders having a chance of causing electrical damage due to too high voltage
If you get that after only a day or so after you last used it then it's the classic symptom (on a 350) of a battery that has come to the end of its days.
Minders: the one that most 350 owners go for is a Ctek, indeed Jaguar themselves sell them but with 'Jaguar' written on them ... at twice the price.
Minders: the one that most 350 owners go for is a Ctek, indeed Jaguar themselves sell them but with 'Jaguar' written on them ... at twice the price.
Last edited by Partick the Cat; Apr 27, 2018 at 04:47 PM.
I have used ctek for many years, I have three of them, brilliant conditioners in my opinion, as mentioned above they also make the units for Jaguar, Bentley, Rolls Royce and Aston martin, to name a few.
I have a gadget made by Zus Nonda that continuously monitors my battery voltage. Over the last 24 hours it ranged from 13.9 to 14.5 volts. Over the last few weeks it has stayed within 2% of 14.2 volts. Over these few weeks I've been using the A/C almost continuously and I use the headlights during daytime driving, too, so it seems as if that's a pretty good voltage, but maybe it should be higher?
Thanks all for your comments and I'd appreciate folks' reactions to my monitored measurements and whether an average of 14 volts is ok or not.
I have a gadget made by Zus Nonda that continuously monitors my battery voltage. Over the last 24 hours it ranged from 13.9 to 14.5 volts. Over the last few weeks it has stayed within 2% of 14.2 volts. Over these few weeks I've been using the A/C almost continuously and I use the headlights during daytime driving, too, so it seems as if that's a pretty good voltage, but maybe it should be higher?
Thanks all for your comments and I'd appreciate folks' reactions to my monitored measurements and whether an average of 14 volts is ok or not.
Thanks all for your comments and I'd appreciate folks' reactions to my monitored measurements and whether an average of 14 volts is ok or not.
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Cruise uses the ABS sensors on the wheels to measure speed and one may have failed.
SDD if you have it will tell you which wheel or there is a U Tube video on how to test sensors.
SDD if you have it will tell you which wheel or there is a U Tube video on how to test sensors.
The battery was low because I was doing lots of fiddling in the car with the key at Position 2 without starting the car. After a 45 minute drive it climbed to 13.8 volts and I suspect will go back to it's normal 14.2 - 14.5 range with the next long drive. Maybe I'll throw it on a charger. But I think the voltage is good. I'll still do a load test. BTW, I haven't gotten the Cruise Control not available warning in days. A weird glitch?
If I remember correctly, when a wheel sensor is misbehaving, you get ABS and/or traction control unavailable messages too.
My is doing exactly this. Where do I begin??
Battery is less than a year old. The negative terminal was really corroded so I just replaced it. ABS light is now gone, Speedo works, power steering works. But dsc unavailable and parking brake malfunction are still coming up?
As an update, I got that error msg. 3x within 2-3 weeks, but haven't gotten it anymore. The battery was low one day, but has returned to 14+ volts consistently since then. As I mentioned in my first post, when the warnings appeared, I'd shut off the car and start it again immediately and the warnings were gone. So I can only figure those few warnings were weird glitches. Thanks, though, for all the responses so if this happens again I'll know what to start testing. And good luck to Dooder with his similar problems.
Check the connections at the ABS module and if this fails to fix it pull the IC and do those.
If the IC looses signal to the ABS iot will go into XMAS light mode
The thing to look for is the loss of the spedo
Here is the TSB
http://www.jagrepair.com/images/TSB/...%20Cluster.pdf
However before doing that, if you have not done so already, upgrade headlamp earths.
Use a new M8 bolt next to to the old posts and swap the wires over
The ABS/DSC earths though the one behind headlamp on the fusebox side
Not sure if the TSB mentions it but check pins 9 through 12 on the Jgate as well
Finally if you run though this and it does not fix it then next steps are to
Run a new pair of wires between the ABS, Jgate and IC
Finally if this dies not fix it replace the Jgate module
Cheers
34by151
If the IC looses signal to the ABS iot will go into XMAS light mode
The thing to look for is the loss of the spedo
Here is the TSB
http://www.jagrepair.com/images/TSB/...%20Cluster.pdf
However before doing that, if you have not done so already, upgrade headlamp earths.
Use a new M8 bolt next to to the old posts and swap the wires over
The ABS/DSC earths though the one behind headlamp on the fusebox side
Not sure if the TSB mentions it but check pins 9 through 12 on the Jgate as well
Finally if you run though this and it does not fix it then next steps are to
Run a new pair of wires between the ABS, Jgate and IC
Finally if this dies not fix it replace the Jgate module
Cheers
34by151
Last edited by 34by151; May 19, 2018 at 01:32 AM.









