Engine System fault,Brake fault and DSR not available message
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 753
Likes: 179
From: Hampshire, UK
I had to have the front fuse box changed last year on my 2004 Super V8.
My main dealer that I have known and used for 30 years diagnosed it.
A new one was hugely expensive but they gave me the part number and details and I got a used one complete with all fuses and relays from eBay for about £60 so they fitted that one for me.
There are several that will fit with slightly different part numbers.
All worked out perfectly in my case.
My main dealer that I have known and used for 30 years diagnosed it.
A new one was hugely expensive but they gave me the part number and details and I got a used one complete with all fuses and relays from eBay for about £60 so they fitted that one for me.
There are several that will fit with slightly different part numbers.
All worked out perfectly in my case.
Member
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 46
Likes: 1
From: massachusetts
I have a 2004 Jaguar XJ8 which I love, until this message appeared and the car went into limp mode. . So, had it towed to local non-Jag mechanic who read ten different codes and concluded that I need to replace the throttle body and the main power distribution panel, ie fuse box C2C20225 located under the hood on the passenger side.
I checked with a dealer and a retired Jag mechanic, and they both confirmed this to be the case. However, being a skeptic, I find this hard to believe.
Does anyone have any input to help me out. The expense of replacing these items is simply ridiculous.
Some threads suggest cleaning the throttle body. The car only has 58000 miles and has performed exceptionally well. However I have noticed mileage has diminished over the past year or maybe two, rarely get near the 28 mph with long highway driving.
HELP !!!
I checked with a dealer and a retired Jag mechanic, and they both confirmed this to be the case. However, being a skeptic, I find this hard to believe.
Does anyone have any input to help me out. The expense of replacing these items is simply ridiculous.
Some threads suggest cleaning the throttle body. The car only has 58000 miles and has performed exceptionally well. However I have noticed mileage has diminished over the past year or maybe two, rarely get near the 28 mph with long highway driving.
HELP !!!
rcode
Banned
Joined: Dec 2018
Posts: 79
Likes: 10
From: Long Island
I thought about this again last night, I had the same issue with a Mustang. My headlights would go out. I found that it was the fuse box but it was pretty much impossible to repair. The problem was the way the fuse box was made, the loom came into the bottom and the wires hit pins in the bottom part, then another part screwed down on top interlocking with the bottom part and that part had the fuses.....it drove me nuts . My theory was that everything got loose and the one pin was making a poor contact , if you tightened the screw to much the connection would be lost......it was a nightmare to repair and tbh I would have been better off just buying a new fuse box. So seen as Ford owned Jag at the time I would say it was probably the same problem.
I found a breaker near me yesterday who had a bunch of Jags in there so I may just go and strip out the fuse boxes for future use......because without that I know me and I’ll spend a weekend trying to repair mine if I get issues.
I found a breaker near me yesterday who had a bunch of Jags in there so I may just go and strip out the fuse boxes for future use......because without that I know me and I’ll spend a weekend trying to repair mine if I get issues.
Member
Joined: Dec 2015
Posts: 35
Likes: 6
From: Olathe, KS
To All In This Thread,
I am very grateful for the discussion, thoughts and wisdom shared here. It really help me out of a jam!
A couple of weeks ago my '04 XJ8 left me stranded with restricted performance, no DSC available, vehicle too low (accurate, another issue) and ultimately a flatbed tow. After reading various threads, I checked and replaced the genuine Jaguar battery and did a hard reset. It would not hold a charge to 12 volts and was 4 years old. The engine would fire enough to kick out the starter solenoid but would not stay running. They I took the throttle body out and gave it a thorough cleaning along with the contacts. It started on the first crank and ran quite rough for about 15 seconds and then smoothed out and has run great every since. For the first time in a while all dash lights are acting properly.
PS. Within the week I also replaced the shocks with Arnott's and no more "vehicle too low".
I am very grateful for the discussion, thoughts and wisdom shared here. It really help me out of a jam!
A couple of weeks ago my '04 XJ8 left me stranded with restricted performance, no DSC available, vehicle too low (accurate, another issue) and ultimately a flatbed tow. After reading various threads, I checked and replaced the genuine Jaguar battery and did a hard reset. It would not hold a charge to 12 volts and was 4 years old. The engine would fire enough to kick out the starter solenoid but would not stay running. They I took the throttle body out and gave it a thorough cleaning along with the contacts. It started on the first crank and ran quite rough for about 15 seconds and then smoothed out and has run great every since. For the first time in a while all dash lights are acting properly.
PS. Within the week I also replaced the shocks with Arnott's and no more "vehicle too low".
Junior Member
Joined: Jul 2019
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
Mr
Yeah I'm glad it turned out to be so simple jassyjags. I could sometimes trigger the problem when stationary with the engine idling by using the windscreen wipers - it would through loads of faults and then stall the car. I first got the problem when driving on the motorway at high speed and hit a pothole. The wipers started to creep and got the DSC not available, ABS light and brake fault light all on and then it all disappeared within a few minutes. Then I got it randomly a few times after that but I couldn't seem to trigger it again with anything I tried. It just seemed to throw the errors and creep the wipers totally at random. So I thought I'd check the ground points and clean them up as I've seen posts about similar issues with the points.
help guys pls
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2018
Posts: 362
Likes: 70
From: Cornwall
Hi khalid,
The ground points that caused my wiper creep are the two on the right hand side just behind the headlight cluster. Those ground points connect the engine earth and other electrical items like the windscreen wipers. You need to remove the plastic cover off the front of the engine bay to access the space behind the headlights.
There is one on the left hand side also behind the headlight cluster on that side. I found that one of mine broke when I undid the nut and that was the main one causing my wiper creep and engine stalling.
In the end I replaced all of my ground points behind the headlights on both sides as I got problems with the left hand side headlight and indicator after a while so it was just a matter of time before that one also failed.
Don't forget to disconnect your battery before you start cleaning or doing anything to the ground points. Some items connected to them are sensitive so you could damage something if you do the work to the ground points with them still 'live'.
As wingrider states, there are other ground points all over the car but the ones that cause this type of problem are nearly always the ones behind the headlights.
Here is a link to my video of the windscreen wiper creep and faults:
Video of wiper creep and faults from ground point fault
Thanks,
Chris
The ground points that caused my wiper creep are the two on the right hand side just behind the headlight cluster. Those ground points connect the engine earth and other electrical items like the windscreen wipers. You need to remove the plastic cover off the front of the engine bay to access the space behind the headlights.
There is one on the left hand side also behind the headlight cluster on that side. I found that one of mine broke when I undid the nut and that was the main one causing my wiper creep and engine stalling.
In the end I replaced all of my ground points behind the headlights on both sides as I got problems with the left hand side headlight and indicator after a while so it was just a matter of time before that one also failed.
Don't forget to disconnect your battery before you start cleaning or doing anything to the ground points. Some items connected to them are sensitive so you could damage something if you do the work to the ground points with them still 'live'.
As wingrider states, there are other ground points all over the car but the ones that cause this type of problem are nearly always the ones behind the headlights.
Here is a link to my video of the windscreen wiper creep and faults:
Video of wiper creep and faults from ground point fault
Thanks,
Chris
Last edited by JX350; Oct 17, 2019 at 02:59 PM. Reason: Added hyperlink to video
Junior Member
Joined: Oct 2015
Posts: 13
Likes: 2
From: Reno, Nevada
TPS replacement
If it were me, I wouldn't even bother replacing the battery. Get it checked, but if it checks out good, don't replace it with just your fingers crossed. Engine Fault, Parkbrake Fault, DSC Not Available means bad throttle position sensor 9 times out of 10. Mine was also a 2004, apparently it was more common on that year. I also wasted money replacing a perfectly good battery hoping it was the cause. It was not. If it were the battery, I think you would get a whole bunch of different lights and warnings each time. But if it's that specific combination of three, its definitely the position sensor. I don't know if it's possible to replace JUST the position sensor instead of the entire throttle body, but I would definitely look into it.
Junior Member
Joined: Oct 2020
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
From: Boston
I kept my throttle body from my X-Type and was going to transfer over that TPS sensor thinking that maybe the new one I bought is no good.
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