I have asked this question a couple times on this forum, and not only could I not believe that "a major motor manufacturer doesn't have a procedure within its diagnostic software for assisting the bleeding of the ABS block". I couldn't believe that the "Jag Techs" on this forum didn't know either. Well after doing some research, I figured it out. Jaguar did have it in their software, just not in plain sight.
I tried the following on SDD v125 and v131. It should work the same on the other versions as well. This is from v125







Start the SDD/IDS program
1. Select Diagnosis
2. Selected Symptoms
3. Chassis
4. Braking System
5. General Braking System Symptoms
6. Brake Pedal Feels Spongy
7. Continue
8. Recommendations
9. Complete Vehicle Data-Logger
10. Run
11. Brake System
12. ABS Output control-Hydraulic Pump Motor

Haven't ran it yet, but looks promising. gonna bleed brakes tomorrow.

 

Eventually i will acquire the lap top, with SDD,/IDS.
Until then, i have a power bleeder that attaches to the master cylinder.
Which i believe will bleed the air out at each of the wheels brake bleeders.
Have yet to make use of it, as i have already flushed the brake fluid with the old pump the pedal method.
I do know the old vacuum pump method will not work.
But has anyone used a power bleeder, to know for sure if they work???

 

Yes and yes.

However I did not have an abs issue. If air is in the abs you cannot push brake fluid thru it. The only way is to actuate the piston thru software.

I had to modify a used reservoir cap.

 

Bleed my brakes today using a Power Bleeder. Didn't bother the ABS, there is no air in it. Put some Hydraulic dye in the fluid. This dye is made for this kind of thing. It looks green when in the bottle, but it dyes the fluid red. Didn't take but three drops to dye 3liters.

 

I also have no air in ABS pump (but do have both IDS and SDD)

I've emptied the brake fluid reservoir a few times over the past few months and refilled with new fluid.

 

Which adapter cap did you get to fix the Jag? part "1100 EUROPEAN BLEEDER ADAPTER 45mm threaded adapter"?

To the OP: is ABS bleed not under the "Service Functions" tab? I never looked for it myself, but I feel like I may have seen it there in passing.

 

Yes I used the European adapter. I look everywhere I could in SDD/IDS software and the only place I found the ABS function was as posted.

 

Seems all Europeans use the same brake master cylinder lid.
I purchased a European pressure bleeder, it had just one lid included.
Screwed right onto the Jags master cylinder, pumped a little air no leak.

 

so what is the process for bleeding brakes with the pressured master cylinder? How much pressure? Do you still pump the brake pedal and hold as you open the bleeder? Or does the pressure in the mc allow you to just open the bleeders?

 

As i understand it, you put in brake fluid, connect, pump to pressurize tank, 10-15 psi, then the master cylinder, then open the bleeder till fluid is clean.

 

That is how I did it.

Very easy.

 

Hi Everyone from Sunny UK,


Further to this topic and 'joeleerj' s response regarding the SDD options. Having replaced several rigid brake lines I suspect that I have air in the ABS module (brake pedal is firm after bleeding at calipers but pedal almost reaches the floor with engine running). I have the SDD program (V130) and, following joeleerj's advice, reached the Data Logger section relating to the ABS Module (as per photos). However, correct me if I'm wrong but it appears that it only shows the spec for the unit NOT a path to bleed same - am I missing something ?? If it's not possible to bleed the ABS module via SDD I'll have to purchase one of the scan tools that incorporate ABS bleeding (Foxwell NT630 for example). I don't really want to go down that route as I already have an iCarsoft unit. Thanks everyone - any advice welcome.

 

I bleed my Jag brakes (as well lots of other cars and bikes) with, I guess, a "vacuum bleeder". It works beautifully - quick, clean, and thorough.

I also have a pressure bleeder, but haven't bothered with it for many years.

- The "vacuum bleeder" is simply an old marine "oil extractor" (eg, https://www.fisheriessupply.com/pela...ractor/pl-6000 )

- I use all of a new, sealed quart of dot 4 fluid, simply replenishing the MC res as the fluid level recedes. Do one res per rear wheel; two for each front wheel, and you're done

- Entire job takes less than 30 minutes

- Never had to fuss with Jag ABS pump (keep the fluid changed, and you won't either)

- Best to do this bleed routine once every two years or so. Always use new, sealed Dot 4 brake fluid (its cheap)

- Manual bleeding (pumping the pedal, etc) is stone axe, plus it often ruins the MC seals by running them past the normal excursion range

- I also recommend replacing Jag caliper seals when doing a brake job. These (square section) seals act as the "return spring" for caliper pistons, and prevent dragging brakes, etc. Seal kits are cheap (BTW, leaking calipers are rare, but dragging calipers v common. No need to replace calipers in 90% of cases)

- Ditto (sliding) caliper pin rubber bushings - these are often worn, and no longer keep the caliper aligned to the rotor. Cheap and easy to replace

- Suggest always use OE parts (eg, ATE, Brembo, Girling)

...