How about these 2 listings
30 Amp 12 Volt DC 13 8V Regulated Power Supply for Ham Radio CB US Seller | eBay
Regulated Switching Power Supply DC 12V 30A 360W LED Strip Light Cooling Fan | eBay

I haven't done any research on them so YMMV. You could also search locally for "12V DC RV Camper Power" which are suitable voltage maintainers. The JLR recommended units have specs of 13.4V ~50A or 12 V ~50A. I'm not sure 50A is always necessary but my guess is that 30A would cover most IDS/SDD uses. Search the whole Jag forum for IDS/SDD power supply as that's what I did to find other sources. Good luck.

 

Anyone ever build a simple controller to adjust ride height by intercepting and modifying the sensor outputs, and manual adjustment of the CATS damping system?


A dip in the road can cause my suspension to bottom/crash startling the passengers and a driveway can cause scraping. A three position knob with +15mm, auto, and -15mm for adjustment of ride height, with a second pole on the knob's rotary switch to change CATS to firm when in the + or - ride height positions, would allow for a quick adjustment in ride height and firmness when approaching a large dip in the road or a driveway.


A related issue I didn't see discussed in the thread is how long from when the controller gets an input for a ride height change to it being implemented? The controller may be in a mode where it is not using input from the height sensors and hence may not adjust the height until the speed drops to zero etc.

 

I thought the easiest way would be to modify the reference voltage (though I'm not sure lower/higher voltage at all sensors is telling the computer the same thing).

 

Hi, I have read and reread your instructions and will be having a try at my friends garage tomorrow who has the correct computer tools to go into special functions and redo calibration.. I had a try today but wasn't completely succesful as since we changed the shocks the car is having problems deciding which height it should be at...
That leads me to another question...After the new shocks went in, the compressor wouldn't start when we turned on the engine, even took the car for a little spin (on very flat roads as car light" vehicle too low" was on and car was very low.
So today we tested "deflation and inflation" on the computer and the air compressor kicked in and did the job perfectly (ish) once the front was up wouldn't go back down?
I know I am babbling here a tad and need to clarify what I hope someone can help with.
1) Why would the compressor not start? Was the car thinking its in Transportation mode?
2) Once I calibrate, @ 386 and 371mm (which is fine for me) will this take the car out of any other "mode"
3) Can anyone suggest the method to change the front sensor(s) as I think this may be an issue too? Where can I source these? (apart from Jag!)
Hope someone can help...this entire saga is taking forever!
Thanks

 

Pod, did you totally remove the height sensor when swapping out the strut or did you leave the unit in place?

Which strut was replaced? The side w/ or without the height sensor?

Sounds like a height sensor calibration issue to me.

 

Can the suspension be calibrated or reset without a computer?

I just replaced my compressor, forgetting to disconnect the battery. Now the front end sits about 1/2 inch from bottoming out. I tried everything I could find on the forum over the last few days but to no avail. It's not a leak.

Is there someone around the Chicago Western suburbs with a JLR SDD setup who could kindly assist? I set up SDD a few years ago but the Windows 10 "upgrade" rendered it useless and after endless wasted months I gave up on it.

 

Just jack up your car from any side as you change the wheel and let it stay for some time (5-10mins). Put it back on the ground, ASU will drop the car on bottom afterwards and recalibrate all corners. And keep patience everything goes slowly)

 

So i tried the lowering ride height but mine keeps going up in the front. Now I have an error for suspension module in manufacturers mode and the front 18 inches from hub to fender. How do I get it down and clear the code?

 

Having read this thread and currently have a load of time spare i have had a go at shimming the sensors, no sensors were disconnected in this attempt,
Car was level and readings taken,
Put 3mm of washers in front and its down 10mm ish all good,
Put 3mm in rear and car seems higher,
Made shorter sensor brackets by 3mm and car still seems higher.

Definitely do i need to move the sensor from the chassis rail with shims or go other way,moving the sensor up.

My drive is a slope so i have to drive 300 yds to a flat area for measures, is this enough?

 

I just bent the brackets and I lowered the car about 13 mm all the way around in about a half an hour I believe if you bend them up it will lower it and vice versa I can't quite remember super easy to do you can bend them with your hands or screwdriver

 

Thanks for the reply, what you say is crystal for the fronts, the rear brackets are vertical where they fix to the sensors, so UP would be raising the height of the rubber ball end on the rod? So my shorter sensor brackets should do the trick.

 

In conclusion, i shimmed the front by 3mm and the drop was 10mm. The rear i made some shorter brackets for the ride height sensors so they ended up 3/4mm higher . car looks like this now

 

Not sure i would want mine any lower.
Yours looks fine a little lower, but it's kinda hard to make these cars to look bad.

 

How do you add shims to the ride height sensor. I unclipped the electronic sensor and by looking down the tube I see the male connector, also it looks like it is designed to fit a Allen wrench for a adjustment. I loosened the 17mm fitting and don" know what to remove to add shims.

 

Which end of the car?

 

The sensors are in the front end under the hood Does the housing of the 17mm nut screw out and then add shims? Would like to find a detailed picture of a height censor unit. I inherited the 04 XJ8 from my Uncle a month ago and know very little about foreign cars. I have researched 04 Jaguar comments and realize the air suspension is fragile and expensive to repair along with many other repairs. For me to keep the car I want it to look lower in the front by approximately 25mm. Thank you for your quick response, this is the first time I have been on a Forum.
Up date, just had the oil changed and while the 04 Jag was on the lift I had a chance to study the components and now understand how to adjust the lift sensors with shims or by bending or changing the rod height. I still wonder what the sensors do on top of the struts that look as thou they can be adjusted.

 

For the front
Remove the complete bracket,no need to detach sensor carefully and slide a shim in, 1mm of shim will lower the car approx 3mm. Do not break the bolts or you will be in a load of trouble.
Access is decent, wheel off and you can see the bolt heads

For the rears,
You need to raise the sensor, i made some shorter brackets (8mm) from laser cut and folded stainless which i sell here in the uk. This will give you approx 24mm lowering, this is the max this way. For less insert a shim between the bracket and the chassis.

Treat your sensors like you love them,
Treat the rubber ends on the arms like you love them
Treat the little torx that hold your sensors on like you really love them
Dont snap any bolts.

My car is lowered about 15mm. SDD is the best way but unless you have it and are confident which i dont and and am not this is relatively simple.

 

Cambo, your post is such a popular post that I became exhausted trying to find any references to my following questions:

Do you need to change the Camber when lowering? in my minds eye I see a 'shortening' of the upper wishbone, increasing the negative Camber? If (and I mean if) this is so, does it matter to inside tread wear?