I discovered a coolant leak Sunday while chasing an altogether different problem. It has to be found and repaired first! I have the car- nose up- and am under it. I find a steady drip (when I pressurize the system) coming down the right rear side of block where it mates up with transmission. I can’t see where it is coming from. What are the usual suspects in this case? Also it looks like I have some minor seepage on the front of block… maybe water pump?

the pic may help you see where the coolant is accumulating and dropping off.

thanks in advance for your input!

 

Most likely is the coolant hose under the intake manifold. Naturally asperated has a hose in the valley similar to the supercharged models.

 

I should have included that my jag is a 2009 Porfolio… so supercharged.

 

Thanks MHamilton. I should have said mine is a 2009 Portfolio… so supercharged. Probably does not change your answer.

 

Correct--still the likely issue. SC engines have more prevalent issues with coolant leaks under the intake. Hopefully someone else can give you some recommended parts to change out while you're under there. I should also point out the thermostat housings are partially under the intake, so it's very possible that is leaking.

 

MHamilton, thanks AND I would love to hear from others regarding other item to tidy up while in the valley. It also looks like the hoses in question may be superseded by newer designs… probably good. Hopefully part numbers remain the same.

i would like to develop a parts list and get them on order before I start.

I will plan to dis-assemble on day one… install new parts on day two… and button up on day three. This plan seems manageable for me.

Then I can get back to the problem I began with… the nose in the dirt!

 

I am leaving to go pick mine up after having the valley hose replaced by a Jaguar specialist in Houston. Brutal recommended them.
They also changed EGR coolant hose, looked bad but not leaking. Knock sensors, flushed intercoolers, and replaced a nipple on intake that snapped.
Had to schedule three weeks out, sat a week before they got on it. Then couple days for that nipple that Don told me to get.
Mine went fast, got a low coolant message, first in seven years. Slow drip, looked like AC drain.about same place. Tank was down a couple inches. Drove ten miles home and drip was big, coolant dripping from everywhere. Expansion tank was half full.
Trailered it 3o miles up to Champions Jaguar.
Wanted to do myself. But after hearing someone say the third time through they were an expert, another show a picture of an air mattress to lay on engine to be more comfortable, and all the stripped nuts, and frozen connections. Decided to pay an expert.

 

Thanks Panelhead for the reply! Sounds like you are happy with your outcome! Makes sense to,do,all,that can be done while in there!

I found my leak while trying to figure out why my ‘09 Portfolio is doing the “donwward facing dog” pose. Very early lead… barely below the full line inside tank. Gotta get it fixed before I can do the suspension.

Hey, I wish I could find a good Indy shop in my area. I know one in SanAntonio, Dallas, and now Houston. I need one in New Orleans/Baton Rouge/Gulfport region. I think I will ask for recommendations from the forums!

best of luck with your jag!

 

On my '05 SV8, the clamps feeding the heater core had weakened and one of them had a steady drip when the system was pressurized. UV dye and a blacklight can be super helpful in tracing leaks. The line that leaked was rear passenger side firewall.

If you do the valley hoses, you may want to consider also doing the two knock sensors. Mine were functioning, but the plastic was fully cracked, so I swapped both out. 30 seconds to change when the supercharger is already off.... 5+ hours when it isn't.

 

Scooterforever, thanks for taking a minute to read and reply. It sounds like my problem is as yours! And yes, I want to get it all done while in there. Thanks for the hint on knock sensors!

 

Picked up and drove the 30 miles home. Hooked up the iCarsoft to monitor coolant temperature. Even on a 100degree bright day it stayed in the 93 - 95C range with stops and 70 mph runs.
But now have a drip from expansion tank. Assume the mechanic (my size) might have stressed the brittle plastic. He said he spent two days laying on top of the engine. That is the main reason I sent it off.
Cannot imagine how miserable it was to lay face down on the engine while removing and installing nuts and bolts by feel. For two days.
Will check for cracked nipple. Hope it is a clamp, real optimist. For some reason,XJ expansion tanks are 60.00. XJR tanks are 160.00. Must be because the XJR run faster.
But was very relieved to not see it overheat. Thirty miles of summer heat on freeway should have stressed it enough if there were gas pockets or engine issues.
BTW
Valley hose
Knock sensor (2)
Intake gaskets
Coolant
Flush inter coolers while available. EGR coolant hose was soft on mine. Nipple on intake from valve cover hose broke too. Don warned that they usually do.
I think my car had supercharger revived prior to my purchase. Intercoolers looked repainted. And tech said there was oil in intercoolers, but no gunk. I expected a gallon of gunk in each one.

 

Panelhead,
Beautiful report! I need to decide whether to do mine myself or shop it out!

 

Cooling hoses are a wear item and unfortunately the SC engine has a bunch of them!
I know I had a 2005 S Type R and replaced ALL of them. I believe that car had 23 hoses?

You can wait and replace them as they fail one by one or understand that your car is now over 13 years old and ALL the rubber hoses need replaced.
Since the under SC hose is the worst/hardest to change it would be a great time to plan to replace it all while the engine is apart.

I would consider changing the water pump too but that's up to you.
We have some very detailed threads which will be a great help if your doing the repair.

But can you DIY the repairs?
It will be expensive to have it done and the worst problem now is finding a mechanic that knows your car. We have been hearing that the Jaguar dealers in some places have refused to work on Jaguar's that are over 10 years of age?
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In the dealers defense, just how many hands were in there before?
Did they actually know what they were doing?
Could they possibly have caused other, unrelated issues to occur?
Additional problems that need to be addressed, before its safe to drive again?
Motorcycles are even worse, dangerous in the best of shape

 

Clubairth1, I know I face the “who to trust” question when I consider shops. Plus they are busy and the wait is considerable as some have attested in this thread. I need to look at some of those detailed repair thread you mentioned!
chemosabe

 

Good points made by wingrider!

 

mhamilton, as you mentioned, I do have what I think to be some light seepage from the front of the engine. It suspect the water pump or o-rings.

 

Hoo-boy. Last summer (2021) I chased my tail trying to sort out what was leaking and where. I used my cooling system pressure gauge with some dye and a UV flashlight. Coolant was seeping from thermostat housing. I posted a short story earlier about my time under the hood. Once I replace what needed replacing + some mushy hoses I was satisfied I had done a decent job...

...until about a week later when the upper coolant nipple broke on the radiator while I was 6-8 miles from home. Apparently I torqued the worm screw hose clamp too tight or it was just time for it go. Was able to jussst able get the upper hose on the water inlet and nurse her home. Ordered a Nissens radiator and had an indie install because I felt like crap due to some daily health treatments. So, upon refill It had a leak in the radiator core. Great. Vendor replaced the radiator but I was stuck with two labor bills. Anyway that's my story. Only the names have been changed to protect the ignorant.

Lessons learned: buy or borrow a coolant pressure gauge. I found my leak at about 8-9 PSI.
Using the dye was helpful as the coolant was dripping at what I thought was the lower radiator hose.
Throw away standard worm screw hose clamps. OEM clamps are constant tension 360 degrees around the hose and fitting. They are OEM for a reason.
There are constant tension hose clamps that look like worm screws but they have a sliding ring inside the clamp that provide the same 360 degree pressure against the hose.

Lastly, take pictures of everything removed as you tackle anything under the hood/bonnet. Seriously.

 

rsa, I like your post. I have had similar experiences that have tried my patience. That is why I am reluctant to dive off into this leaking hose situation. I like the reiteration to “take pics of everything.”

 

Very good point on those constant tension clamps! For years I would change what I thought were cheap crappy spring clamps that came from the factory to SS worm drive aftermarket clamps. Until I read about hose clamps and found as you did the old worm drive units are NOT the best as I had thought!

I also found a tool called cable clamp pliers that is a great help in removing and attaching these constant tension clamps.
They have come down in price and I see them for about $20 now.



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