Intake Manifold Gasket - minimum effort?
LTFTs run up to around 10.
A smoke test produced a slight wisp that appears to be from the right hand side (RHS) intake manifold. Listening with a hose would support that same idea.
I had the intake off a year ago to do the valley hose, so have some memories of doing the job.
The question this time is, what is the minimum I would have to do to be able to just swap the gaskets for new ones (car is not currently here, so I cannot examine it).
EGR pipe/EGR would need disconnecting, engine cover brackets removed.
Would that be enough to lift the intake and remove the gaskets, or do I need to be draining coolant, unplugging a few dozen hoses, electrical connectors, etc.?
A smoke test produced a slight wisp that appears to be from the right hand side (RHS) intake manifold. Listening with a hose would support that same idea.
I had the intake off a year ago to do the valley hose, so have some memories of doing the job.
The question this time is, what is the minimum I would have to do to be able to just swap the gaskets for new ones (car is not currently here, so I cannot examine it).
EGR pipe/EGR would need disconnecting, engine cover brackets removed.
Would that be enough to lift the intake and remove the gaskets, or do I need to be draining coolant, unplugging a few dozen hoses, electrical connectors, etc.?
Gasket between the manifold and the head, or the several gaskets between the aluminum lower manifold and the plastic upper?
There is a lot of wiring to remove around the manifold, for sensors and injectors, then you unbolt it and slide it forward as far as the harnesses on the back will reach, at which time you can disconnect those and lift it up. basically, there is no "minimum effort;" it's a bit of a job.
If you got the cheap paper gaskets for the joint at the heads, those are junk. can't keep them lined up properly during installation, and something will get pinched or torn. You need the metal gaskets that have the tabs you bend up to clamp the bottom of the intake runners for alignment.
I haven't done the gaskets between the uppers and lowers, but when I ordered the gaskets for the lowers to the heads, it took three delivery/return cycles, from different sources, to actually get the metal gaskets that were illustrated on the sites I ordered from.
There is a lot of wiring to remove around the manifold, for sensors and injectors, then you unbolt it and slide it forward as far as the harnesses on the back will reach, at which time you can disconnect those and lift it up. basically, there is no "minimum effort;" it's a bit of a job.
If you got the cheap paper gaskets for the joint at the heads, those are junk. can't keep them lined up properly during installation, and something will get pinched or torn. You need the metal gaskets that have the tabs you bend up to clamp the bottom of the intake runners for alignment.
I haven't done the gaskets between the uppers and lowers, but when I ordered the gaskets for the lowers to the heads, it took three delivery/return cycles, from different sources, to actually get the metal gaskets that were illustrated on the sites I ordered from.
Last edited by wfooshee; Dec 3, 2024 at 08:50 AM.
Gasket between the manifold and the head, or the several gaskets between the aluminum lower manifold and the plastic upper?
There is a lot of wiring to remove around the manifold, for sensors and injectors, then you unbolt it and slide it forward as far as the harnesses on the back will reach, at which time you can disconnect those and lift it up. basically, there is no "minimum effort;" it's a bit of a job.
If you got the cheap paper gaskets for the joint at the heads, those are junk. can't keep them lined up properly during installation, and something will get pinched or torn. You need the metal gaskets that have the tabs you bend up to clamp the bottom of the intake runners for alignment.
I haven't done the gaskets between the uppers and lowers, but when I ordered the gaskets for the lowers to the heads, it took three delivery/return cycles, from different sources, to actually get the metal gaskets that were illustrated on the sites I ordered from.
There is a lot of wiring to remove around the manifold, for sensors and injectors, then you unbolt it and slide it forward as far as the harnesses on the back will reach, at which time you can disconnect those and lift it up. basically, there is no "minimum effort;" it's a bit of a job.
If you got the cheap paper gaskets for the joint at the heads, those are junk. can't keep them lined up properly during installation, and something will get pinched or torn. You need the metal gaskets that have the tabs you bend up to clamp the bottom of the intake runners for alignment.
I haven't done the gaskets between the uppers and lowers, but when I ordered the gaskets for the lowers to the heads, it took three delivery/return cycles, from different sources, to actually get the metal gaskets that were illustrated on the sites I ordered from.
I was thinking it was the lower manifold gasket. I used AJ85392 last time, metal, with tabs, but think they were aftermarket parts, not OEM. I also see AJ89062 appears to be a viable number for this gasket, not sure of the difference between them and both are recorded as fitting my car, even after entering the vin.
Maybe it is the uppers, I did not disturb nor replace those last time. I felt like the noise was coming from the lower portion, as was the smoke, but it was not very clear or definitive.
I believe jagbits.com has them
partsgeek.com has them
I thought I saw them available at at least one of the local chain store auto parts stores (AutoZone, O’Reilleys, Advance Auto parts) but would have to search them to be certain.
if I recall correctly S N G Barratt didn’t have them but that’s one place I would bookmark for parts in general.
the biggest problem I’ve found is making certain you’re looking at the correct part. Read the description and fitment very well.
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Rewording this a little differently, if I cannot obtain new gaskets in time, okay to refit using some sealant?
Gaskets were new a year ago, it's been fine until recently, tabs are still visible sticking out from under the manifold, so assume gaskets are still in place.
Gaskets were new a year ago, it's been fine until recently, tabs are still visible sticking out from under the manifold, so assume gaskets are still in place.
Would clean & refit yours, if new was not available.
The plastic sound proofing edge could be pinched.
Hate the thought of using sealant on there
Might have to remove it someday.
Cleaning things up, could be a real issue
The plastic sound proofing edge could be pinched.
Hate the thought of using sealant on there
Might have to remove it someday.
Cleaning things up, could be a real issue
Last edited by Wingrider; Dec 22, 2024 at 06:13 PM.
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