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I did a quick google search and came back with these, they may or may not be correct, but I'm sure someone else will have a better idea.
U3FF6 parking aid fault....?
U1262 Instrument cluster SCP(J1850) Communications Bus fault
B2691 Front seat belt buckle switch, driver's side.
These cars have so many electronics that When you start unplugging parts and removing wires, it can throw up all sorts of codes, even completely unrelated to whatever you were working on. It may be a better idea to clear all codes give it a day or 2 and see what codes, if any, come back.
I'm having the exact same issue (airbag code 15, dead LH rear window, passenger door open message). One thing I just thought of is I spilled water infront and under the driver's seat. I thought I had dried it well, but I wonder if there's a connector in that area that got wet. I couldn't find a key in electrical guide to figure out what the area circled in blue means, Maybe someone can confirm what's in that area before I remove the driver's seat and pull the carpet.
I'm having the exact same issue (airbag code 15, dead LH rear window, passenger door open message). One thing I just thought of is I spilled water infront and under the driver's seat. I thought I had dried it well, but I wonder if there's a connector in that area that got wet. I couldn't find a key in electrical guide to figure out what the area circled in blue means, Maybe someone can confirm what's in that area before I remove the driver's seat and pull the carpet.
There is a ground under the seat. Mine had corroded and broken off causing the airbag light, seatbelt light, and inoperable rear window. I fixed the ground problem and everything is back to normal aside from the door open error. For my particular car the error is generated by the RR door, whereas the LR door had the window problem.
Great info. Do you have to remove the seat and pull the carpet to get to the ground? Also how did you isolate the door open error to the RR door? I tried opening all the doors to see if the display will indicate which one is open, but it only makes the distinction between the driver's doors and other three.
Yes you need to remove the seat. Does your seat move? Mine didn’t. The seat grounds to the same ground and it didn’t have power which I hadn’t noticed until I tried to move it. There are two bolts in the front and two in the back that need to come out. Unfortunately the seat needs to slide out of the way at both ends.
I was able to remove the back bolts, lift the rear of the seat, and stick my hand in to reach the ground. I used a few bits of wood to hold the seat up.
Hmmm, now that you mentioned it, I don't think it moved with the steering wheel when I opened the door. I'm pretty sure the seat is all the way back. so hopefully I can get to the ground with just the front bolts out.
How did you replace the stud? Mine sheared off. Is it threaded into the car or is there another bolt on the bottom of the car?
I ran a wire from the connector to one of the screws on the sill. It’s not the proper way to do it, but I wanted to get it done...
Any unpainted screw or bolt should work.
How did you replace the stud? Mine sheared off. Is it threaded into the car or is there another bolt on the bottom of the car?
Hi Khello,
The ground studs under the seats are attached to the floorpan by a process Jaguar describes as "similar to spot-welding." It's easy to repair a broken stud on the floorpan by drilling a small hole through the center of the old stud, changing to a bit about 1/16th inch (2 mm) larger and redrilling, and repeating until you can fit a bolt of suitable size up through from the bottom of the car. Put a fender washer on the bolt before you insert it through the floorpan. Add another fender washer inside the car, then thread on a nut and snug it down. Fit the harness eyelet/ring terminals onto the bolt, add a regular washer or lock washer and snug it all together with another nut on top. Stainless steel for the bolt and nuts is probably OK, but since even stainless can interact galvanically with aluminum, it's best to use an aluminum bolt and nuts. McMaster-Carr carries them, see mcmaster.com:
Great info. Do you have to remove the seat and pull the carpet to get to the ground? Also how did you isolate the door open error to the RR door? I tried opening all the doors to see if the display will indicate which one is open, but it only makes the distinction between the driver's doors and other three.
A friend’s shop scanned the car and the error they found was for the right rear door.
Thank you for the great info gents. There's shop in the next town over that welds aluminum so I'll probably have them weld a new stud instead of the pain of removing the driver side under tray to put a thru bolt.
