I am a shade tree DYIer if there ever was one. While my wife disabuses me of the notion on a regular basis, I am told that I am way above average on the I.Q. scale. I have made my way in the world far removed from anything mechanical & my friends are amazed at what I've been able to do on my cars.

Having said all that, since she has been out of warranty, except for an oil change or two, I have done all of the repairs & maintenance on my 04 xjr. This has included: diagnosing & replacing a shock; rebuilding the compressor for the suspension with parts from Bagpiping Andy in Scotland ($50 worth of parts delivered in less than a week!); replacing pads & rotors; installing new iridium plugs; replacing several sensors; replacing filters; replacing a suspension arm, etc.

THERE IS NO WAY I COULD HAVE DONE ALMOST ALL OF THIS WITHOUT YOUR HELP & I THANK YOU ALL VERY MUCH! The pleasure & pride I have derived from accomplishing all of this work is inestimable.

To The Subject at Hand:

The one thing I have been unsuccessful at doing is reading the codes. Some years back, I bought a cheap reader & threw it in the trash. The reader ( iCarsoft LR V3.0) I just purchased will arrive today. I bought this one for 3 reasons: 1. It is an upgrade of one recommended by several of you; 2. If it doesn't work, I am promised a no-hassle refund; 3. It was under $200 & seemed like a good alternative to the other many options. Any suggestions before I begin will be much appreciated.

There are 2 long-standing issues that I have not fixed: one is a slight engine hesitation when warming up, especially noticeable uphill; the second is that the cruise control doesn't work & the warning always comes on. I would have replaced the steering spring since there was a slight zinging sound emanating from the steering wheel until the CC went out; however, radio & all other things related to the steering spring still work. I look forward to seeing if the new reader will help me diagnose these problems.

I will send updates for the good of the cause; stay tuned.

So far, not so good.

Everything seemed fairly intuitive. While it wouldn't auto-read the Vin as advertised, when I entered it manually, it did identify the car. I got a bunch of U, B & 1 C codes (18). Mostly stuff that didn't seem to be relevant (CAN Invalid data for vehicle security.) There were a few related to cruise control that might be relevant like "optical sensor failure"; with a little luck, the cruise control issue may be diagnosed.

When I finally got to the engine stuff, I got the infamous P1111. The car has not been scanned in many years; I will look it up, but at least 5 years. When I got the P1111 code years ago with the scanner I put in the trash, I went through a many paged ritual to correct. Wife would read the ridiculous list of procedures as I performed them; my neighbors had their suspicions confirmed that I had gone around the bend! All to no avail. Still got the P1111 code. Shouldn't, after all these years, it have cycled or whatever it is supposed to do?

When I tried to erase the P1111, it wouldn't let me by saying something like there was not a good connection.

I'm inclined to just F it & send it back. But, needless to say, I am still hopeful that there is a solution. The company's website looks legit but no one answers the 703 phone number. They do have email assistance which I can try.

Any thoughts? Thanks, Steve

Thanks, Meirion1; will do. Nice to know about the hesitation re the torque converter. Makes sense since it has always done this; I have been kicking myself for not seeing about it during warranty period.

BTW, Meirion1, I see you have a Healey. Back in the day, I owned a '67 3000 MK3; it was the 7th to the last made & was delivered through the Charleston Harbor Port. I was a student (cadet) at the time & I needed a little stick to beat the girls off when I stopped at a light! Right after graduation in 1970 I was married. After our 1st was born in 74, my wife insisted that I sell the 3000 & I did. She said it had to do with safety, but I knew she was a bit jealous of the car & the girls chasing it! In spite of the reputation, she was one of the most reliable cars I've ever owned. Never refused to start.

Isn't P1111 an "all clear" code?

Yes it is Toyman1001, been trying to get mine to read P1111 for longest time now.
Compressive component just won't clear, still passes emissions test so all is well.

P1111 -- It indicates that all the I/M Readiness Monitors, or OBD II Readiness Monitors, have been successfully completed. This is a good thing. If the required Monitor tests are incomplete you will see DTC P1000 and possibly specific DTC if there is a problem. Usually disconnecting the battery or erasing DTCs with a scan tool will also set the P1000 code.

The engine does sound & perform as she did off the showroom floor.

Perhaps my issue is I'm unfamiliar with my new toy. Will endeavor to review the manual & follow advice kindly given above. However, it is a poor English translation with many sentences ending awkwardly. Reminds me of the first Yanmar I had in my sailboat way back when: "owner should be in happy mood when attempting this process.".

The non-obd2 checks were quite a lengthy procedure. Whereas, the obd2 check seemed too quick. Perhaps I should disconnect something to test the machine? Any ideas of something that could be unplugged easily for a test?

I will also go to the code lists & similar threads. My goal is to be able to clearly review this particular purchase. It is advertised for 289 & as I said earlier, Amazon has it for under 200. So, if it is any good, it might be a good buy for someone else looking for a reader. My son & his family are arriving here today; so, I may not get to it until next weekend.

If you have P1111 that is good. Do NOT attempt to clear it!! You will get P1000 and may struggle to get back to P1111.

Thanks, JagV8, any thoughts about intentionally disconnecting something that should give a fault code to check the machine?

Another quick thought: I have been under the impression that Jaguar had a reader that could reset, etc. & still read the codes at will. & that the reason some of us couldn't was that our readers were insufficient to the task. Is there anyone reading this who could add a little flesh to this bone? As per JagV8's point, would the dealer have the same problem if he cleared the P1111 code?

While I'm not familiar with it, there was something called "Right to Repair" that made it all the way up to the SCOTUS. It had to do, if memory serves, with a tractor manufacturing company restricting info & parts that would preclude the owner from doing his own repairs. I think the plaintiffs were the victors. I don't know if this has filtered into the car world or not, but it should have!

I just fired this off to the tech support given on website:

Re: V3 Jag (2004 xjr)

​​​​​​Hi Barnett,

Hope all is well in the DC area.

I just purchased your V3 for Jag.

I'm getting the "all clear" P1111 code on the db2. Is there something that I can disconnect easily on the engine to test the reader? While my car, an 04 xjr, runs like it is new, because the reader gave the P1111 so quickly, it only makes sense to do a test to be sure the V3 is working properly. Also, if I should attempt to clear the P1111 code, would this in any way interfere with future reading of codes?

Also, if I hit the Diagnostic button, it seems to be mostly electrical? Is my perception correct? If not, please tell me what the 2 distinctions are.

BTW: no answer on your 703 number given on the website.

Thanks & best regards,

Steve

disconnect a coil and check for a misfire code. should pop up instantly

You can disconnect the MAF sensor either before or after you start the engine (which will still start and run after you disconnect it).

If you cause a code (such as by MAF disconnect), do NOT clear it. Once you remove the cause (reconnect MAF etc), the code will self-clear after 4 or so warmups.

If you clear the code instead, you will cause P1000 and although P1111 "should" come back quite quickly sometimes it does not and you can be in a horrible Catch-22 where the car can't tell you what's wrong because it needs the various OBD monitors to set (as P1111 would confirm) but they won't set due to a fault.

You then get to guess what's wrong and it's a nightmare.

I would leave well enough alone myself, the P1111 code is as good as it gets.

Thanks, guys!

There are 2 Function keys for acquiring codes: one is labelled Diagnose & seems to diagnose things electrical; the other is labeled OBDII. I went back & reviewed a thread I started 5 or 6 years ago when the Adaptive Cruise Control error first appeared & all of the codes given by the guys responding listed P codes. Whereas, as you see, except for the 1 code using the OBDII function, the ones I'm getting are not P codes. Do you see anything that would indicate what might be causing the ACC to not work? Is there anything that would indicate a need to act immediately? The one that indicates anti-theft horn short to ground seems urgent; I don't think a short could be good. Also, why am I not getting P codes as others have? When I diagnose & fix ACC, I plan to go to the aforementioned thread and conclude it with my findings. As I've said, I would also like to conclude this thread with a satisfactory& helpful for others review of this Reader.

Diagnose Function Codes

U2515: ABS missing message for adaptive speed control

B2884: Steering column tilt movement fault secondary axis.

U2510: CAN invalid data for vehicle security

U2511: CAN data mismatch - receive data does not match expected.

U1900: CAN communication bus fault passive anti theft system

B2139: Data mismatch receive data does not match expected.

U1262: SCP, (J1850) communications bus fault.

B1234: Mirror switch invalid code.

B1940: Seat memory position out of range.

B2309: Seat motor out of range.

B2496: Anti-theft horn circuit short to ground.

B2363: Optical sensor failure.

B2262: W. P. park to park ….( can't read my writing).

B2370: Left seat heater power shutdown

C1755: Right seat heater power shutdown

U1262: SCP (J1850) communication bus fault
B2162: Right side module invalid I.D
OBD2 Function Codes:

P1111: P1111 is not a fault code. It is a special designator Jaguar uses meaning system ready, drive cycles completed after the last fault event.

OK, just finished searching all the codes & couldn't find an iota of relevance to any issue I'm having with exception of possibly u1262 which can cause error messages. However, it seems if this were relevant to my car, many more error messages would likely show. So, assuming I don't hear something different from the manufacturer, I will follow meirion1's advice & clear the codes & see what comes back.

Since these codes are in a different function of the software than the OBD2 function, perhaps this will not create the dreaded P1000 & if it does, my ACC will still not work.

Shouldn't I be getting some codes related specifically to the cruise control? Perhaps I should return this reader?

After clearing the codes in the Diagnostic Function, got P1000 when I went to OBD2. Unless I get satisfactory answers will be sending this one back.