I have read through the forum and found a few threads on doing a coolant flush which is good. But I'm wondering if anyone on here had done a pressurized flush to remove some blockage. I am having the no heat on driver's side issue, and I would like to do a flush first. I just couldn't find anything about something other than a basic drain and refill.
Thanks
Dylan.

 

you should not need to do that ! first check the dccv , its the right place to start .
and over pressurizing the heater matrix may result in tears and wet carpet.

 

Gotcha. I will take a look at that then.
But my question now is since I can't do a pressurized flush, how should I remove old gunk from the system assuming there is some without removing my entire cooling system?

 

there should not be any gunk . if the correct coolant is applied . its an alloy block and heads so there will be next no no rust particles even if it had the wrong/no coolant antifreeze . if there are any heavy particles they would normally end up dormant in the bottom of the radiator .if the system is gelled from mixing green with OATS antifreeze . then its a full strip down job to fix . so if that hasn't happened then don't worry too much !
a simple drain and fill with fresh coolant is sufficient .
i think your just off on the wrong track .

 

One possibility is a bad auxiliary pump or connector to it.

A problem with that pump has caused the problem you describe for quite a few members on here.

You can feel the pump working if you can touch it with the ignition on without the engine running and with the heat on high with the bower running.

 

Also check the fuse in the trunk for the auxillary cooling pump. If it is blown, then almost certainly the pump is worn out.

 

I disagree. OATS or Dexcool here in the US is known to have a problem with clogging heater cores, engines, radiators etc and while some have come to the conclusion that it happens when combined with ethylene glycol (green anti freeze). It happens very often without. There have been several lawsuits over it and many are still ongoing. GM and other manufacturers changed their standards for flushes based on these lawsuits.

If the coolant is changed every 5 years, I'm inclined to agree with Datsports that it's less likely, but if not changed every 5 years, you can have problems.

The service manual gives you instructions on back flushing the systems.

All that said, Auxiliary pump failure is a more common problem then clogged heater cores from OATS, if you sum up the results from forum members issues. Aux pump check is the first and most simple.

Pressurized flushing/ back flushing will not unclog the heater core. Many have tried. One forum member attached pics in his thread as he cut his open after removal.

At any rate, any flushing should not exceed the pressure rating on your cap, which is little more than a low flow from your garden hose.

 

The first time I dismantled hoses to take out my SC I saw this gel in the SC top up connection.

As far as I know the car always had the Jaguar approved coolant. This pic was taken at about 100,000 miles.

I have installed a freshwater cooling system on my boat engine and the instructions warn against using Dexcool type coolant in a used engine because
lime deposits and rust deposits can cause gel formation with Dexcool.

 

interesting ! i guess thats why it has a life span in the first place .
my cooling system is around 170000km and 14 years old my records show I'm the third and forth person to swap out the coolant , one due to a punctured intercooler and radiator from hitting a solid wild animal. inside the engine and coolers are spotless . and the reason i done the coolant swap in the first place was due to it having green antifreeze when i purchased it , luckily there was no gel anywhere . lucky break


as for the OP the auxiliary pump not working will not make one side vent cold and the other hot . that has to be the dccv. or the commanding module.

 

Interesting replies. I did end up doing a thorough flush. Multiple for that matter, and got nothing out. Maybe just a small amount, but overall, I would say no noticeable difference. I wish I read the comments sooner, because as noted, back flushing made no difference to the drivers side heat.
As for that my next step is to make sure the aux pump is getting power. And if so then look at the dccv.
For that matter, is there anything out there about it? I'm finding a lot for the s-type. Not much for the x350.

 

Assuming you have an x350 there is no dccv on this Jag-S type only.

 

OK so try a back flush again after checking the aux pump and fuse. Here are a few links that may help you. As Meirion1 noted, there is no DCCV on your vehicle. give H2OBoy's method a go for back flushing.

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...s-side-128153/

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...-brush-115220/

And if it comes to this:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...lation-130143/

 

I had the identical symptoms and it was the auxiliary coolant pump. It was completely dead. If you are new to the X350 (as I was when this happened) you will have the WTF? moment but after back-flushing and replacing the radiator (developed a leak) I decided to check into this auxiliary coolant pump. It sits by the radiator on the passenger side. Once I realized it was dead, I did replace it not thinking it would make a difference but it did. That was the solution.

 

very sorry to send you on a goose chase . i hope there is an easy fix for you .
i still am baffled at how no coolant pump to circulate the heater circuit = heat on one side only . i guess if the blend doors separate the climate zones then they could also be to blame .

 

I don't think you sent anyone down a rabbit hole Datsports. You just gave info based on your experience. No harm done imo. It's good to know others don't experience this problem.

KJ, how about an update?