Puzzling Codes? Charge Battery & Hard Reset!
#1
Puzzling Codes? Charge Battery & Hard Reset!
Dear Forum,I am posting this in case it helps a Forum Member.I had an X350 N/A ‘Valley Hose’ leak (see Don’s post: https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...on-s-c-149873/). Fixed.
In the process Mr Clumsy broke his brittle Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor. Bought new one. Did not realise it was Chinese clone. Useless. Bought second hand Ford FPR Sensor. Fixed.
Took three weeks with battery disconnected and when reconnected (to test previous crap FPR Sensor) battery abused to get engine running long enough to get FPR Sensor fault code. Fixed.
Car back on road. Amber Suspension Fault light. Kangaroo hopping suspension. Pull over, switch off, back on again, front comes straight back up. Drives normally. Does not significantly drop overnight. Next day, same. Next day, same.
Getting ready to take to garage for expensive Air shock replacement. Cannot figure which shock is leaking.
Thought: Read many posts on this excellent forum regarding how battery-sensitive our cars are and how beneficial a ‘Hard Reset’ can be. Did hard reset. Fully recharged battery. Three days now with no amber suspension light and everything okay? So far.
If this turns out to be a false dawn, I'll let you know...….
In the process Mr Clumsy broke his brittle Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor. Bought new one. Did not realise it was Chinese clone. Useless. Bought second hand Ford FPR Sensor. Fixed.
Took three weeks with battery disconnected and when reconnected (to test previous crap FPR Sensor) battery abused to get engine running long enough to get FPR Sensor fault code. Fixed.
Car back on road. Amber Suspension Fault light. Kangaroo hopping suspension. Pull over, switch off, back on again, front comes straight back up. Drives normally. Does not significantly drop overnight. Next day, same. Next day, same.
Getting ready to take to garage for expensive Air shock replacement. Cannot figure which shock is leaking.
Thought: Read many posts on this excellent forum regarding how battery-sensitive our cars are and how beneficial a ‘Hard Reset’ can be. Did hard reset. Fully recharged battery. Three days now with no amber suspension light and everything okay? So far.
If this turns out to be a false dawn, I'll let you know...….
Last edited by EsRay; 11-24-2018 at 10:26 PM.
#3
#4
Dear Forum,I am posting this in case it helps a Forum Member.I had an X350 N/A ‘Valley Hose’ leak (see Don’s post: https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...on-s-c-149873/). Fixed.
In the process Mr Clumsy broke his brittle Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor. Bought new one. Did not realise it was Chinese clone. Useless. Bought second hand Ford FPR Sensor. Fixed.
Took three weeks with battery disconnected and when reconnected (to test previous crap FPR Sensor) battery abused to get engine running long enough to get FPR Sensor fault code. Fixed.
Car back on road. Amber Suspension Fault light. Kangaroo hopping suspension. Pull over, switch off, back on again, front comes straight back up. Drives normally. Does not significantly drop overnight. Next day, same. Next day, same.
Getting ready to take to garage for expensive Air shock replacement. Cannot figure which shock is leaking.
Thought: Read many posts on this excellent forum regarding how battery-sensitive our cars are and how beneficial a ‘Hard Reset’ can be. Did hard reset. Fully recharged battery. Three days now with no amber suspension light and everything okay? So far.
If this turns out to be a false dawn, I'll let you know...….
In the process Mr Clumsy broke his brittle Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor. Bought new one. Did not realise it was Chinese clone. Useless. Bought second hand Ford FPR Sensor. Fixed.
Took three weeks with battery disconnected and when reconnected (to test previous crap FPR Sensor) battery abused to get engine running long enough to get FPR Sensor fault code. Fixed.
Car back on road. Amber Suspension Fault light. Kangaroo hopping suspension. Pull over, switch off, back on again, front comes straight back up. Drives normally. Does not significantly drop overnight. Next day, same. Next day, same.
Getting ready to take to garage for expensive Air shock replacement. Cannot figure which shock is leaking.
Thought: Read many posts on this excellent forum regarding how battery-sensitive our cars are and how beneficial a ‘Hard Reset’ can be. Did hard reset. Fully recharged battery. Three days now with no amber suspension light and everything okay? So far.
If this turns out to be a false dawn, I'll let you know...….
#5
You only have to disconnect the negative and touch the positive terminal with that disconnected negative cable.
#6
By doing as Jackra_1 suggests, my understanding is that you discharge your capacitors and place your car back to its factory or base settings. It does no harm other than cause you to have to reset your parking brake, reinstall your radio security code and retrain your Throttle Position Sensor and auto window controls. Your car also has to relearn its Long-Term fuel trims and pass several non-continuous monitor tests. The plus side is that it may forget what was ailing it before your hard reset if that ailment was illusory!
Last edited by EsRay; 11-26-2018 at 10:55 AM.
#7
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#8
This is the checklist I use after a battery disconnect. I'm pretty sure I have to put in the radio code;
So, just to summarize, on disconnecting the battery;
1. Radio code needs to be put in
2. Windows need to be reset:
Ignition on power window down, then up to full extent and hold for 2 seconds, repeat for each window
3. Parking brake re calibrated:
a. Reset the EPB :a. Switch off the ignition. b. Disconnect the battery for 30 seconds. For additional information, refer to S TYPE Workshop Manual Section 414-01.c. Reconnect the battery.
b. Start the engine.
c. Firmly apply and release the footbrake five times.
d. Confirm that the message ‘NOT CALIBRATED’ or ‘APPLY FOOT AND PARKBRAKE’ is displayed on the instrument cluster message center. This indicates thatthe parking brake is in calibration mode.
e. Lightly press the footbrake pedal.
f. Apply the parking brake by using the EPB switch.
g. Release the parking brake.
h. Release the footbrake.
i. Confirm that the brake warning lamp is no longer illuminated on the instrumentpack and that the ‘NOT CALIBRATED’ message is no longer displayed in themessage center.
j. Apply and release the EPB five times to ensure no error is present.
4. Throttle parameter reset:
Throttle Parameter Reset
a. Ignition to on, do not start the engine,
b. slowly depress the gas pedal until it goes past the kickdown point, do this twice.
So, just to summarize, on disconnecting the battery;
1. Radio code needs to be put in
2. Windows need to be reset:
Ignition on power window down, then up to full extent and hold for 2 seconds, repeat for each window
3. Parking brake re calibrated:
a. Reset the EPB :a. Switch off the ignition. b. Disconnect the battery for 30 seconds. For additional information, refer to S TYPE Workshop Manual Section 414-01.c. Reconnect the battery.
b. Start the engine.
c. Firmly apply and release the footbrake five times.
d. Confirm that the message ‘NOT CALIBRATED’ or ‘APPLY FOOT AND PARKBRAKE’ is displayed on the instrument cluster message center. This indicates thatthe parking brake is in calibration mode.
e. Lightly press the footbrake pedal.
f. Apply the parking brake by using the EPB switch.
g. Release the parking brake.
h. Release the footbrake.
i. Confirm that the brake warning lamp is no longer illuminated on the instrumentpack and that the ‘NOT CALIBRATED’ message is no longer displayed in themessage center.
j. Apply and release the EPB five times to ensure no error is present.
4. Throttle parameter reset:
Throttle Parameter Reset
a. Ignition to on, do not start the engine,
b. slowly depress the gas pedal until it goes past the kickdown point, do this twice.
#9
#10
#12
#13
Sort along the line of ASSUME = making an *** OF YOU& ME??????
The radio reset code, seems to be a non issue, here in the states, at least on the ones i've worked on.
Guessing because there's not as many Jaguars around, so people are less likely to steal them.
There is a card with the code numbers on it, to turn it back on though.:
Dealer's may have a hand in it, to make their job easier when being serviced.
Really don't know the answer to be honest with you
The radio reset code, seems to be a non issue, here in the states, at least on the ones i've worked on.
Guessing because there's not as many Jaguars around, so people are less likely to steal them.
There is a card with the code numbers on it, to turn it back on though.:
Dealer's may have a hand in it, to make their job easier when being serviced.
Really don't know the answer to be honest with you
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