While I could not find any how-to's on replacing X350 front bearings, I bit the bullet and jumped in to replace my front unit bearings this past weekend. Unlike most front end unit bearings, our bearings cannot be removed using a puller that presses on the spindle. So I chose to remove the knuckle (three nuts and a ball joint separator were all it took). Then I pressed the bearings out from behind.

After cleaning out the receiving hole of white-blue aluminum salts (how cast aluminum corrodes) and the mounting flange of the knuckles, the new bearings mounted nicely. The four bearing bolts require Blue Threadlocker.

The replacements were Timkens, with a replacement ABS sensor cable included. The sensor plugs into a receptacle hidden behind the forward edge of the wheel well liner; there is one nut holding the liner edge in place.

On reassembly, do not over-toprque the knuckle mounting nuts. Again, use Blue Threadlocker.

This procedure may be obvious to most; but this being my first of three XJ6/8 Jags with this type of bearing, I was a bit skeptical about how to proceed. I share it so that others may likewise know it's a nice project.

 

Good to know it's not a difficult job.

Do you have a Timken part no so that they can be bought from a bearing supplier? (will be cheaper)
Thanks

 

^^ what he said

 

What is the mileage on the car ? Just so I can get an idea of how long these bearings last.

 

The Timken P/N is HA590224 at just over $100 per, and they came packed with the high temp blue grease. There are rubber grommets on the cable that clip alongside the brake line; these grommets are not in the *exact* OEM location, but the clips can be moved to accommodate. I suppose one could recycle the cables.

My '04 XJ8 has 122k, and the bearings started groaning at 119k, like truck tires. Unlike old style bearings, the groan did NOT begin sounding in turns; it just increases in volume continuously. All quiet, now!

 

Thanks for letting us know when they started getting noisy. I have a way to go, (hopefully), as I'm on 64k, and do about 12k a year.

 

Interesting thread, thanks for the advice Rob

While dropping off the XJS at my Indy mechanic today I asked about wheel bearing life on the X350s because I think I am starting to get some wheel bearing noise at 82k miles. The noise has been gradually building but as said before, it's not worse on turns.

My guy said he'd never done wheel bearings on an X350 and he takes care of a few cars with >100k miles on them.

I'm not convinced my noise is wheel bearings, so when the XJS is finished I'll go down with the X350 and do some road tests with him to see what he thinks.

I was thinking about why my wheel bearings may wear out faster than others and I had a thought about my stupid (but gorgeous) 20" wheels. I have already cracked 2 rims from 2 separate pothole events so it's pretty clear my tires don't actually take up any force when there is an impact. I was wondering if this could also be giving the wheel bearings a harder time ?

Just thinking out loud. Would really help if others could post their current mileages without wheel bearing changes

 

I have some noise that I think may be bearings starting to wear but my mechanic (Jag main dealer) says no. Unlike the old days when you knew a bearing was going it seems we have to live with some noise till it comes to light that it is the bearings. My Mech says tire noise but i only notice the noise when slowing down to stop. Nice to know its not a bad job to do so will prob tackle this one myself when the time comes.

 

There's no need to listen for noise, the way to determine wheel bearing problems is to wiggle the wheel at 12 and 6 and then 3 and 9. If it has 1/16" play or more and it is there all the way around, the bearings are ready for a renew.

 

Hi Oldmots, Sarc & Robert Page,

Tire noise was my initial thought, too, and then you'll notice I did this job in early December. In November, I had four new Blizzak's put on my OEM 17" wheels and thought I'd loose the noise, too. Not... So I replaced the bearings and voila! I did not measure wheel displacement and just dug into the bearings. Proof enough for me.

There is a squeaking occasionally, which I've identified as coming from a spring clip in a forward caliper. There are two clips - one on either side of the pad on the caliper piston side - that work their way down to the top of - and then ride on - the rotor. I'm wondering if they can be tossed altogether. These are not the spring clips that come with the pads.

BTW - Put on Centric slotted and X-drilled rotors - dramatic reduction in high speed stopping distances. Beware: Our rotors do NOT have a screw to secure the rotors onto the hubs. Consequently, when putting on a wheel, be absolutely sure that it and the rotor are centered on the hub. When you free-wheel spin the wheel, you should hear no noise; if you do, they're not centered, and I'd imagine this condition would destroy your bearings.

I've got four OEM 18" wheels and am going to put Turanza Serenity tires on. Hope they are as good as Potenzas were on my X300.

 

I have some noise coming from the front end, can't hear it much from the back seat. It starts to get noticeable at 45 mph and starts to quiet down a little around 70. I thought wheel bearings but every time I get a oil change I have them checked, actually see them do the 12 &6 and 3 & 9 test in which they seem good.

I am thinking tire noise as the sound is not as pronounced in the rain but I am not convinced. I love everything else about my cat except maybe tracking in heavy cross winds at highway speeds. If only I could only get rid of this noise.

 

My car has just started groaning, a constant noise that increases in pitch the faster I go.
So I have ordered a pair of new genuine front hub assemblies and will be replacing the bearings in the old ones when they come off.
The disappointing thing is that my car has only done 65000 miles!

 

My right-side bearing was probably near-as-dammit toast when I acquired the XJ8-L @ ~ 89K miles. I just pulled the both of them Friday and today (well XJ8 is 2005 vintage, I am 1945 vintage, so these things go slower than they once did..)

OTOH - the wheel the spare tire is on has a visible flatted spot, centered on which is a pronounced crack, so... 3 used/refurb wheels had also been sourced, two new Conti's mounted front, proving the noise was not ALL from the knarly Badyear Buzzard tires..

Left-side hub was a bit stiff, but still turning smoothly - no notchiness or cogging.

NB: "Those who do not learn from history" department....

These hubs contain BALL, not tapered-roller bearings!

Ball bearings have mebbe a third the shock resistance as tapered rollers do, so on motor vehicle suspensions they are consumables. Very much so.

As road conditions matter, I'd guess about the same life-expectancy as a set of decent tires. I'll be ordering a second pair of new hubs to keep in stock.

How can you tell when they are going bad? Well the noise means they have ALREADY failed. Badly. If you want Early Warning?

Pull the wheels, (5 bolts), pull the calipers (two bolts), remove the rotor ...

NOW hand-turning will reveal their condition. Until 'naked' there is too much masking mass, drag, etc. to sense what the rolling-elements and their lubricant (NOT) are up to.

Only four more bolts at this point, so it makes more sense to me to just replace them and clean the upright while they still drop out in your hand, and before corrosion drives one to needing wedges, prybars, or a press.

 

Just curious, but how hard was it to get the four bolts loose on the back of the knuckle holding the hub? I'm debating whether I'm going to be able to attempt this myself. We don't have snow often and salt is never used, so mine shouldn't be fused like some have had happen.

 

This wasn't directed at me but I recently changed mine as well, and I was able to get mine with a good breaker bar and a pipe over the handle; though it did require a good bit of effort it was doable.

The problem (At least in my case) was the hub and knuckle were fused because of the dissimilar metals, and not from salt/snow. If you run into this, save yourself hours of frustration and work and just remove the knuckle like Rob did. I fought with mine for a good 10 hours trying everything under the sun to get it out before I pulled the whole knuckle and put it in a press. (It then popped right out, and I felt very dumb)

 

That's why I'm wondering about doing this myself. I don't have access to a press.

 

I guess I should come clean about my press... lol.

My "Press" was a workbench vice, and I used an old large socket placed on the back of the hub and a mini sledge to pound it out. Same concept, right? I don't have a press either haha. Keeps us posted on what you decide to do!

 

2005 X350. Done on the vehicle. Not a great deal of work to it.

No corrosion. Hub carriers began to move freely as soon as tension was off the last of the four fasteners. They are NOT a tight fit on the diameter. The fasteners do the actual locating.

Because of comments ABOUT corrosion, I put two wraps of teflon 'gas pipe' tape (yellow) around each new one, then buttered the whole shebang with silicon 'bulb grease' before putting them back in. This also made them a nicer fit - snug enough to not fall out whilst getting the fasteners started.

No press or vise needed.

DID need one of my deadblow hammers to get the Torx to loosen.
No corrosion, just blue Loctite and a bad choice of fastener & head for the location.

Two fasteners have Torx sockets, two are std hex. Probably worked OK for an assembly robot. No so well for a human mechanic. When I get a round-tuit, I'll replace the torx with hex.

I LIKE Torx, but not when it is used where one cannot get a tool onto it.

 

Bulb grease is for electrical connections. Use the proper stuff. Anti-Seize is your friend!
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That I can do. I'll be doing this myself then. The hardest part will be keeping the Torx in tight while using the breaker bar.