XJ XJ6 / XJ8 / XJR ( X350 & X358 ) 2003 - 2009

Replaced X350 Front Bearings

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Old Apr 21, 2016 | 07:12 PM
  #61  
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No problems since I put the Beck Arnleys on my car. I didn't think they were particularly pricy. OEM is.
 
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Old May 27, 2018 | 09:46 AM
  #62  
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Originally Posted by Revonok
If I'm not mistaken, it was a T35. I can check when I get home if someone doesn't get back to you first, I just went out and bought a decent Torx head kit for $20 or so.
i had to buy one today . It was a T55.
 
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Old May 27, 2018 | 09:49 AM
  #63  
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Originally Posted by Paul Thompson
i had to buy one today . It was a T55.
Though the bearing did need changing i found the noise still remains?? Its a cross between a pulsing groan and a very light intermitent thud .. any clues people?
 
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Old May 27, 2018 | 12:43 PM
  #64  
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Originally Posted by Paul Thompson
Though the bearing did need changing i found the noise still remains?? Its a cross between a pulsing groan and a very light intermitent thud .. any clues people?

Hi Paul,

I recently replaced the front right wheel bearing on an X100 because both I and the owner were certain the noise was loudest from the right side. After replacing the right bearing, the noise reduced slightly, but the worst of the noise remained. I pulled the wheel, caliper and rotor off the left front bearing, and sure enough, it was even worse than the right one had been. You might check your opposite bearing just to rule it out. The only way I know of for a definitive diagnosis is to remove the mass loading of the wheel and rotor (the caliper has to come off too). Then spin the hub by hand and feel/listen for any roughness, grittiness, irregular resistance, etc.

Other suspects I can think of are a problem with one or more of the belt-driven accessories (e.g. A/C compressor), a bad lower shock bushing or lower control arm bushing, a groaning ABS modulator, perhaps combined with a tire whose tread is noisy. Do any of those seem possible?

Cheers,

Don
 

Last edited by Don B; Jun 9, 2018 at 08:17 PM.
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Old May 27, 2018 | 11:34 PM
  #65  
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Originally Posted by Paul Thompson
i had to buy one today . It was a T55.
Originally Posted by Don B
Hi Paul,

I recently replaced the front right wheel bearing on an X100 because both I and the owner were certain that was where the noise was coming from. The noise reduced slightly, but the worst of the noise remained. I pulled the wheel, caliper and rotor off the left front bearing, and sure enough, it was even worse than the right one had been. You might check your opposite bearing just to rule it out. The only way I know of for a definitive diagnosis is to remove the mass loading of the wheel and rotor (the caliper has to come off too). Then spin the hub by hand and feel/listen for any roughness, grittiness, irregular resistance, etc.

Other suspects I can think of are a problem with one or more of the belt-driven accessories (e.g. A/C compressor), a bad lower shock bushing or lower control arm bushing, a groaning ABS modulator, perhaps combined with a tire whose tread is noisy. Do any of those seem possible?

Cheers,

Don
it has 4 brand spanking new tyres on and now a brand new hub and bearing with abs sensor .. going to check all the bushes .. did find it a little strange that the rotor (brake disc) was only fixed on by the wheel and wheel nuts or am i missing something??
 
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Old May 28, 2018 | 08:02 AM
  #66  
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Originally Posted by Paul Thompson
... did find it a little strange that the rotor (brake disc) was only fixed on by the wheel and wheel nuts or am i missing something??

Hi Paul,

The wheel and lug nuts, when properly torqued, are perfectly sufficient to hold the rotor in position. Even if the rotor originally had one or more screws that secured it to the hub, or washer-type pushnuts on one or more studs for the same purpose, the screws or pushnuts are rarely replaced by brake shops the first time the rotor needs to be removed.

Cheers,

Don
 

Last edited by Don B; May 28, 2018 at 08:06 AM.
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Old May 28, 2018 | 08:15 AM
  #67  
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Originally Posted by Don B
Hi Paul,

The wheel and lug nuts, when properly torqued, are perfectly sufficient to hold the rotor in position. Even if the rotor originally had one or more screws that secured it to the hub, or washer-type pushnuts on one or more studs for the same purpose, the screws or pushnuts are rarely replaced by brake shops the first time the rotor needs to be removed.

Cheers,

Don
Installed a set of Meyle rotors on another car. No screw holes. Only an issue if removing calipers.
The Meyle were cheap. 150.00 for all four with delivery Seem to be fine, 5 years and 30,000 miles so far.
 
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Old Jun 3, 2018 | 07:17 AM
  #68  
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Be mindful, that the rotors are centered by the hub, and the clamping force is done via the wheel lugs. The push retainers serve only the purpose of keeping the rotor on the hub during the assembly process, as the assembly line doesn't install the wheels until very late in the process.
 
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Old Mar 23, 2019 | 12:56 PM
  #69  
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I have several nuts with shoulders, to keep the rotors in place for any needed brake work.
Holds them in place, until everything is ready for the wheels to go back on.
 
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