That's the fuel line. I struggled with it also so I feel your pain. I checked on some old photos and I did remove the clip and then the panel. Once the panel is moved, the fuel line can be moved enough to pull out the COP. It's a pain.
I'll add photos in a bit.

 

The COP is the Coil On Plug.

It's sounds like the packaging on your XJR is like mine. Remove the clip, fuss with the insulation that's hiding the panel, cuss a bazillion times, and you'll finally get it off. Getting it back on is almost as difficult.

Open up the panel that's housing the master cylinder and look inside. If you have a mirror, that might help.

I replaced the heater core on my wife's car and I had to disassemble the majority of the interior to pull out the dashboard, in order to access the housing that the heater core was in. Even the Lincoln (and Ford) techs admit that this is one of the most difficult projects on the MKX. And it's only a $80 part. That project was more intuitive than this one stupid spark plug.

Edit to add:
See this post: https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...35/#post838023
The steps are shown are helpful. Once you remove that panel, the small housing around the fuel line can move enough so you can move it out of the way. Scroll down to photo number 7 in Trosty's post. The panel is removed and you can see the left side of the small housing around the fuel line. That's what's holding it from moving. So, one you have removed the panel, the grey fuel line will easily move out of the way. Of course, cussing a bazillion times helps.

 

Mine, too, is an 04 XJR & the # 6 will not come out because of the grey line even with the clips undone. What panel are you talking about? My master cylinder sits in a well. Does all of that have to come off?

 

Read post #22, above.

 

Thanks, Zazzy; don't know how I missed the post. Think I can handle it now.

 

How do those plastic retaining screws come out! Do you just put a screwdriver under the heads & pop them out?

 

Very interesting. Do you know if your car is early or late in the '04 model year? I'm going to have to pay more attention to the differences in how those hoses are routed.

Cheers,

Don

 

I think you're asking about the one (or two?) that are holding on the panel. As far as I remember, you can reach the back side from the master cylinder compartment. If they're similar to a screvit, then yes. My gut is telling me that one if is different: you squeeze the backside of the retaining screw and push it out. But, I could be mixing it up with another retaining screw on a different project.

BTW, if the sound insulation is still on the outside, don't try and save it. It'll fall apart.

 

I have the original sticker and will check. I think the build date (or ship date) is printed on it.

 

OK, have the 2 plastic fasteners removed from the cover near #s 6 & 8. It is my understanding that with this panel removed, the lines over #7 can be easily moved & an easier path to #8 will be opened.

But the damned thing won't come off; it is loose, but won't come out unless I cut it up. Do I have to remove the windshield wipers in order to remove the cowling over the rear of the engine(including the master cylinder) in order to get this 3 x 6" pain in the *** off?

 

Found 2 additional plastic clips at the bottom of the panel(the panel is bigger than I thought) & thanks to the fact that I work on the diesel of my sailboat, I have a 2' screwdriver and an 18" pair of angled vice-grips & I was able to remove the two clips.

I'm reasonably sure that the panel is free, but still does not come out because of aluminum piping & body braces & the cowling. I loosened the cowling on the one side by removing the plastic clips in hopes it would be flexible enough to allow the panel to be removed. However, while it is somewhat flexible, no can do.

Any ideas before I have it hauled to the junk yard?

 

After further jiggling & inspection, I don't see how the panel can possibly be removed. Further, it doesn't seem that movement of the panel, now that the fasteners are removed, allows for movement of the 2 lines prohibiting the COP of # 6 from being removed. It seems that there is something else, besides the panel, prohibiting movement of the lines?

I have Googled this thing hoping to find a detailed description to no avail. Trosty's thread is helpful; however, I'm not convinced if I remove the windshield wipers & the cowling completely, it will allow the flexibility of the 2 lines above #6. Actually, there is only the grey line in the way; the other one easily disconnects and is out of the way.

 

Well, I'll be Don B'd! Hold the phone! Stop the wrecker & cut my legs off and call me shorty! The secret is that the grey line on the other side of the chrome disc is very flexible! With just a little knuckle blood & figgitt ing the COP comes out!!

 

#s 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7 are done!

#8 COP has screw & wiring harness removed; top is firmly against the panel that I have loose, but can't seem to remove. Need about 2 more inches to get it out. If I had a better purchase, I would try to bend the panel since it is plastic.

Any ideas?

 

Good to hear that. Mine wasn't. LOL.

Regarding Trusty's instructions, the only thing I found helpful was the image of the panel so I knew how to take it off. In the long run, removing that panel to do the plugs made it easy when I needed to replace the hood cable. I already knew what to do.

 

Used a long lever arm(Screwdriver) to force the bottom of the panel away from the groove holding it. I was then able to easily remove the COP.

She is running beautifully; couldn't have done it without your help! Now just to get all of the plastic back.

I'm inclined not to seek a replacement for the sound insulation. If you think this is a mistake, please let me know.

Have a great weekend! Now I get to go change the oil in the boat.

Steve

 

I didn't bother with the insulation. It's on my to-do list but it's really, really low on the list.

Enjoy the boat!