XJ XJ6 / XJ8 / XJR ( X350 & X358 ) 2003 - 2009

Spark Plug Replacement - Help

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Old Feb 24, 2012 | 03:37 PM
  #21  
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This link should help http://jagrepair.com/images/AutoRepa..._2007_2004.pdf
 
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Old Feb 24, 2012 | 10:53 PM
  #22  
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Hey, thanks so much Gus! That is a VERY handy publication; not sure why I hadn't run across it previously.

It did verify that a Spark Plug GAP between .035 and .039 is acceptable; which is comforting.

Still not sure what the effect of setting the GAP on the high side or low side is to engine operation. My hunch would be the effect is minor but couldn't tell you why.

Thank again for the publication!!!
 
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Old Jun 27, 2015 | 06:00 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by 912guy
...the most difficult coil is the rear coil..make sure you bring her straight up while at the same time tilting her towards the front of the car,she will come out...
How?

The first six were easy. I can't get the last two out and I'm stumped. I can get the rear coil up about 1/3 of the way (COP8). That's it. Then, there's the coil in front of that (COP 6). How do I disconnect the brake booster line. or move it? To be honest, every time I'm faced with a new connector, I spend more time trying figure out how to disconnect it. Any suggestions?

The only thing that make sense is doing the steps post #1 of this thread by trosty:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...35/#post838023
 
Attached Thumbnails Spark Plug Replacement - Help-xjr-cop-8.jpg   Spark Plug Replacement - Help-xjr-cop.jpg  

Last edited by Zazzy; Jun 27, 2015 at 11:35 PM. Reason: added the most probably answer
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Old Jun 28, 2015 | 02:47 PM
  #24  
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From Jaguar Documentation
Spark Plug Installation.
Apply 'Neverseez' to the 3-4 threads next to the spark plug electrodes. Fill to full thread depth for 180 degrees of thread circumference.
A CAUTION: Do not contaminate the spark plug electrodes.
Torque spark plugs to 25-29Nm (18.5-21Ib).
 
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Old Jun 28, 2015 | 04:03 PM
  #25  
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The only plug thats difficult really is the rear right when looking from the front of the car as there is not enough clearance with the bulkhead. However, once the panel in the bulkhead is taken out it can be done. I have done this twice now on my 2005XJR within a few days as the 1st set of plugs, recommended by Autozone, gave me significantly worse mileage than the NGK IR plugs that were originally in there.
You can take the cover off the brake fluid reservoir area and push thru underneath the reservoir to push off the cover. That hole is where a socket etc can go thru to get at the plug.
My flash woukld not lite up the arae so I shone a flashlite at it and you can see the lite on the panel.
 
Attached Thumbnails Spark Plug Replacement - Help-p1060606.jpg   Spark Plug Replacement - Help-p1060605.jpg   Spark Plug Replacement - Help-p1060604.jpg  

Last edited by jackra_1; Jun 28, 2015 at 04:13 PM.
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Old Jun 28, 2015 | 04:25 PM
  #26  
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I got #8 out and back in. Jeez. What a dumb-*** design. Now I know why Ford got rid of them.

COP#6 conflict:


Figured it out. See below...
 

Last edited by Zazzy; Jun 28, 2015 at 11:46 PM.
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Old Jun 28, 2015 | 04:49 PM
  #27  
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I believe I twisted the rubber tube off carefully and maneuvered the cop off by turning it
at different angles while pulling up until it cleared. It was a year ago when I did this and I know I got it out without much trouble.
 
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Old Jun 28, 2015 | 05:04 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by jackra_1
I believe I twisted the rubber tube off carefully...
Where? At the hard line on the right (photo #3), back at the rear (photo #2), or in the center?

I've tried to pull it apart at the rear and in the center. The way it feels is that it's a simi-rigid plastic line all the way thru with a rubber sleeve on the outside.

Obviously, it's supposed to disconnect someplace.
 
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Old Jun 28, 2015 | 05:12 PM
  #29  
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If I did it would have been in the center. My memory is not that clear. And if I did get it off I know that it was not difficult or I would remember. I also want to think that I simply bent the tube up and back a little and fenagled the cop past it with light force. Again my memory is not clear. I wish I could be of more help.
 
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Old Jun 28, 2015 | 05:18 PM
  #30  
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I just went out and looked at my unit. I can move it up and back quite a bit so am sure
now I did not have to disconnect anything.
 
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Old Jun 28, 2015 | 05:20 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by jackra_1
If I did it would have been in the center. My memory is not that clear. And if I did get it off I know that it was not difficult or I would remember. I also want to think that I simply bent the tube up and back a little and fenagled the cop past it with light force. Again my memory is not clear. I wish I could be of more help.
I appreciate the help, even if you think it's minor. I've been messing with it all day. At least I'm trying the same thing you did.
 
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Old Jun 28, 2015 | 06:10 PM
  #32  
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...
 

Last edited by Zazzy; Jun 28, 2015 at 11:46 PM.
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Old Jun 28, 2015 | 07:00 PM
  #33  
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Pics here show how much I can lift that tube up without too much force.
 
Attached Thumbnails Spark Plug Replacement - Help-p1060608.jpg   Spark Plug Replacement - Help-p1060607.jpg  
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Old Jun 28, 2015 | 11:41 PM
  #34  
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I finished late afternoon.

Here's what worked:

1. I disconnected the fuel line retainer clip.


2. Lifted both the fuel line and vacuum line up and out the retainer clip and pushed them back out of the way.


Done (expect for pushing in one plastic retaining pin). It runs smoother.
 

Last edited by Zazzy; Jun 28, 2015 at 11:43 PM.
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Old Jun 29, 2015 | 06:43 AM
  #35  
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Very glad you managed to complete the job Zazzy!
I know this kind of thing can be very frustrating. The XJR has some challenges when you have not tackled them before. For me it was plug #8.
Also It took me a while to replace all front bulbs but people on this forum are very helpful.

Have you done a transmission oil change and a supercharger oil change?
 

Last edited by jackra_1; Jun 29, 2015 at 07:15 AM. Reason: Added questions
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Old Jul 1, 2015 | 11:47 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by jackra_1
Have you done a transmission oil change and a supercharger oil change?
The oil changes will be soon.

Originally Posted by jackra_1
...I know this kind of thing can be very frustrating. The XJR has some challenges when you have not tackled them before.
The frustrating part was the bizarre packaging/design and a lack of instructions that addressed this car. Oh well. I've done other projects that appear more challenging so I knew I could get this done.

Thanks again!
 
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Old Mar 30, 2017 | 12:09 PM
  #37  
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Default NKR 5464 vs. 7866

I'm approaching the time to replace plugs on the 2004 XJR for the 1st time. I called NKR customer service. The NKR Iridiums(5464) is what I plan on using; however the rep on the phone said the 7866 is longer lasting. The 5464s are more expensive; so, I assume they are likely better. Am I correct that the rep just made a mistake?

Also, as some of you may remember, I have successfully replaced many parts including the breaks with your generous help. Do you think that plug replacement is something I should attempt? I have an excellent assortment of tools; however, I will most likely need to purchase others. Are there any that have been particularly helpful to you?

Thanks for your help.
 
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Old Mar 30, 2017 | 01:21 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by 04Xjrsteve
I'm approaching the time to replace plugs on the 2004 XJR for the 1st time. I called NKR customer service. The NKR Iridiums(5464) is what I plan on using; however the rep on the phone said the 7866 is longer lasting. The 5464s are more expensive; so, I assume they are likely better. Am I correct that the rep just made a mistake?

I have an excellent assortment of tools; however, I will most likely need to purchase others. Are there any that have been particularly helpful to you?
Hi Steve,

The NGK 7866 (IFR5N10) Iridium is the original equipment plug, with a 0.8mm iridium tip on the center electrode and platinum tip on the ground electrode. They are rated to last up to 100K miles, but when I removed ours at 96K, they were well past their prime and probably should have been replaced before 80K miles.

The 5464 (BKR5EIX-11) has a 0.6mm iridium tip on the center electrode and a nickel-core ground electrode without the platinum tip. NGK says it performs slightly better than the 7866, but only lasts up to 60K miles, which probably means 40K in real world use.

Rock Auto carries both plugs at affordable prices.

You can look up specs at the NGK parts finder:

https://www.ngksparkplugs.com/products/spark-plugs

I think the mileage and performance ratings came from the NGK U.K. site.

Note that NGK says the plugs are pre-gapped, but you should check them anyway to ensure they are set at Jaguar factory specification, 1.0mm or 0.039/0.040 inch. The torque spec for the plugs is 20 ft. lbs. / 27 Nm.

The only extra tools you may want are 3/8-drive 3-inch and 18-inch extensions and a universal joint, as shown in this post:

Don's X350 Cylinder 8 Ratchet Extension Setup

The rest of that thread has some additional tips that may be helpful:

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...04-xj8-173652/

Cheers,

Don
 

Last edited by Don B; Mar 30, 2017 at 02:05 PM.
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Old Mar 30, 2017 | 01:29 PM
  #39  
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Thanks, Don! Definitely 5464 for me; the links are great & it looks like I'm good to go on the tools which is a good thing since my wife looks askance whenever I acquire a new tool. Perhaps rightfully so, since I have many I have yet to open & use.

Best,

Steve
 
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Old Aug 6, 2017 | 01:13 PM
  #40  
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The remainder of these coil packs is stuck in my valve covers.Would it be possible or an advantage to remove the valve covers to get these out? Or can the valve covers be removed with out taking the spark plugs out?

 
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