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Good to hear you have it all dismantled, I had to do it 3 times,, don't ask!! I washed all the intake components in a parts washer @ 40C for an hour, they all came out like new, the amount of gunk in the intercoolers was surprisingly bad, @ 89K miles though. Hopefully will last another 89K.
What have you had done to your rebuilt charger? I changed the snout bearings and regreased the needle bearings at the rear, when fitting the smaller pulley.
I let the intercoolers soak overnite and am still cleaning them. 106,000 and a lot of build up in them but they are showing signs of becoming clean.
I bought a used SC on Ebay and sent it to PSE.
They put in rotors from a 2009 car along with the better snout gearing from that year. New bearings all around and a pulley that they machined the snout to fit.
I know many people say that porting does not gain much on the Gen V M112 but they have done that as well. I had a long talk with Ed Martinez, the owner of PSE, and agreed to let them do the porting. It sounds like a proprietary procedure to Ed and is not what you would expect from a porting procedure.
The rotors of the unit I bought on Ebay were peeling badly. I was expecting to see peeling on my unit but none is apparent at all.
I am upgrading the intercooler pump this weekend and replacing the coolant/water pump along with both belts.
Am still waiting for other bits and pieces to be delivered along with the rebuilt SC but should have everything later this week.
Btw I did NOT remove the lower windshield "tray" I simply levered it up enough, after removing wiper arms, to gain access to the torx screws holding in the passenger side engine compartment braces which I did remove along with airbox for the cabin filter.
Please report any dyno or 1/4 times you get from the car. As you noted porting the M112 does not seem to get you very much. I decided years ago to forget that.
Are you only doing the blower? No intake elbow or anything else?
He was not happy and got little to nothing out of it. When he questioned Stiegemeier he came on the forum and ran his stupid mouth. So the history of m112 porting for the STR is very thin and conflicted.
Please report any dyno or 1/4 times you get from the car. As you noted porting the M112 does not seem to get you very much. I decided years ago to forget that.
Are you only doing the blower? No intake elbow or anything else?
He was not happy and got little to nothing out of it. When he questioned Stiegemeier he came on the forum and ran his stupid mouth. So the history of m112 porting for the STR is very thin and conflicted.
I hope you DO get some HP increases because I along with other STR owners would love to upgrade too!
Although SC porting and changing the inter-cooler pump do work on other cars we have not seen much if any improvement so far.
Avos finally has the TS kit out and my mouth is watering for that! Just putting $6K into a car worth maybe $5K is tough to do.
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In my research of different M112 porting/rebuilding companies I did look at Stiegemeier and others. Nearly all had at least one "upset" customer including PSE.
I will be pushing the Eaton M112 Gen V SC to the limit as far as what is possible engineering wise and that includes the smaller pully.
Right now that is all I am planning to do. I might go for a Mina exhaust later.
The nearest dino facility pulled their unit the week I called them. So I did not get "before" dino measurements.
Since my intercoolers were so clogged up I am not sure how much impact cleaning them would have on measurements.
I am up against time constraints because of an imminent move to MA.
Where I do plan on getting doing a dino run.
If I think working on the throttle body and intake elbow would add much I would consider working on those later.
Hey Im back:O) Glad to see things are getting sorted. I didn't realize that the later model rotors had different gearing. Wouldn't have worked well with my 10% blower and larger crank pulley (This is on my xkr) I can however give you an entire history lesson on blower porting from way back when. I started out with Thunderbird SC's (still own a few) and m90 eatons. Porting basically started out mimicking Eatons latest designs for the older blowers and perhaps smoothing it out just a tad. Ive dealt directly with the innovators of these services from way back when and still to some extent today (although one tbird is now turbo and the other has a 2.2 twin screw :O). The reason I didn't port my late model m112 is because it has the latest port design and in reality little can be gained from porting it. This coming from people who have 20 years plus porting and redesigning these suckers. And believe me I wanted to ! The rotor coating is much more important and a pulley swap and a larger TB/intake/MAF will help more than anything. Ive mentioned it in a few posts on here but Ive made close to mid 300 rwhp with an m90 on a v6. Stock ported blower overdriven, stock ported heads, stock bottom end and a mild cam and associated stuff needed to support that power. Some have reached the 400rwhp with an MPX m90 (Magnum Powers) and associated stuff. But what I Really wanted to mention is that the inlet, intake, TB and maf are likely a huge restriction. On my lil v6 the minimum I would run with the above setup would be an 85mm TB 3.5 inch air intake and 90MM MAF with an aftermarket SC inlet. On the MPX version of the m90 people would run 4" intake and a 95MM TB.....So it disappoints me that the best I can get out of a ported TB is around 83mm as I know I'm leaving power on the table. Anyway rant over..And glad to see it coming along! My XJR is currently getting fitted with a new transmission and my xkr...a rod knock soon to get my 4.2 I built for it.....eerrggg This is my bad year with jags for sure Anyway in case yall haven't seen it..It looked pretty when done. Used all ARP stainless bolts even for the blower Well I almost finished...The noise..Not so pretty..Also attached a photo of my posted xjr TB for my twin screw kit. Looks like they could have gone larger but eh well
Good to hear you have it all dismantled, I had to do it 3 times,, don't ask!! I washed all the intake components in a parts washer @ 40C for an hour, they all came out like new, the amount of gunk in the intercoolers was surprisingly bad, @ 89K miles though. Hopefully will last another 89K.
What have you had done to your rebuilt charger? I changed the snout bearings and regreased the needle bearings at the rear, when fitting the smaller pulley.
I wonder how long it takes for the intercoolers to clog? Yours were bad at 89K SimonXJ so how long before that were they significantly restricted I wonder?
Today I have been playing around with how my additional intercooler radiator is going to fit. I think I have it figured out. Will post pics
when done.
XxSlowpokexX so porting the throttle body does that include a larger butterfly flap?
I might do that this winter after I have got the move out of the way.
Engine looks really good btw!
Yes its not even that expensive to do for the 4.2 TB. If you want after I install my twin screw kit you can use my TB as a loaner to send to the shop so that when you pull yours apart you are ready to go. I actually bought one on ebay to save me the trouble!
I wonder how long it takes for the intercoolers to clog? Yours were bad at 89K SimonXJ so how long before that were they significantly restricted I wonder?
Today I have been playing around with how my additional intercooler radiator is going to fit. I think I have it figured out. Will post pics
when done.
I hope they'll stay clear for a while longer, but when I got the car @70K the air filter was very oily... FSH from Jaguar!
Hopefully you have your car back together and it's running well, another thing that might be worth replacing if you haven't is the outlet duct to intercooler seals, I think the oil degrades the rubber as mine were both leaking and if oil can get out air can probably get in..
They don't appear to clog to the point of causing any restriction. We have had STR's with over 180K miles that were never taken apart and still running fine.
If I was starting over again with my STR I would invest in a quality aftermarket oil separator system as my very first mod. It's just a shame there are so few Jaguar guys into mods!! We don't even have a kit for the STR and would need to adapt something from another car.
As an example of what we would need. I just upgraded to an ECO boost Lincoln MKS for my wife. Twin turbo 3.5L DI V-6. The thing is just as quick as my STR when stock and can be modded into the low 12's in quarter mile for about $1200! I won't even mention the AWD as it launches like a rocket ship.
These twin turbo ECO boost guys almost 100% run oil separators. They are pretty involved compared to any PCV/vacuum setup I have run in the past. Here is a picture of some of the connections. This is just one side of the engine!
MY IC's on my xkr dripped oil out..It was dripping out!
I did mount my additional, in series, intercooler radiator and that took a while.
I had to wait for some parts to come in. Now working on the final "obstacle".
That being the connector at the bottom of the overflow reservoir.
The pipe with the connector is new. I managed to get the lower end of that connected to the RHS bottom of the original intercooler radiator and what a PITA that was.
Now I am trying to get the hard plastic join with the metal clip to slide on to the bottom of the overflow reservoir. The clip is pulled out to its "secondary" position but the plastic cup join will just not slide all the way in even with some force.
My intercoolers were not dripping oil but were obviously pretty clogged up with oily residue that must have restricted airflow significantly.
Well I did get the overflow reservoir fitted with some extra force to drive home the "cup" join.
I spent today flushing the coolant and ended up vacuuming quite a bit out thru the super charger top up point.
I have driven the car around the neighborhood and I am sure I will need to add coolant.
Could not speed at all and I did not notice any increase in super charger whine although I did put on the engine cover and usually drive without it.
In the process I did not remove the lower windshield cover and I only removed the passenger side engine compartment struts. I was able to work with the windshield cover levered up.
I did have to "modify" the hood safety catch in order to install the additional intercooler radiator which measures 26" x 6" x 2".
I still am not sure whether it will benefit me or not as it does block, to some extent, the overall flow of air in thru the front. However there is room to install say three 5" fans across the front of this additional radiator.
No need to remove windshield lower cover.
Just remove passenger side wiper arm and lever the shield up and wedge in place.
No need to remove engine compartment braces.
You do need to remove cabin air filter box and surrounding box.
This will enable access to EGR pipe nuts and bolts with correct assembly of
extension bars and sockets, swivels.
If you are replacing many hoses you need an assortment of tools for getting hose clips off. The ones at the bottom of the intercooler radiator are particularly difficult to get at especially if they were installed at the most inconvenient “angle”. Mine were.
Fully draining coolant is expedited using a vacuum attached at supercharger top up point.
The only really difficult to get at bolt was the LHS frame bolt of the inlet elbow below the throttle body. The RHS one was not too bad and neither were the lower two bolts going into the back of the super charger.
Taking off the wiper arm was much more difficult than expected and I had to
use a puller to do it.
Cleaning out the intercoolers took me a while. Using a proper parts cleaner would save a lot of time.
Installing an additional intercooler radiator was fairly easy as was an upgraded IC pump.
Mistakes made:
I misread JTIS and undid the two bolts holding on the EGR solenoid and accidentally knocked it off. I thought I had fixed it when I reinstalled it but ended up with an EGR failure code.
Bought a used one on Ebay and ended up fixing the one I broke after careful
study of how it worked.
I broke the back norma connector on the semi rigid hose coming out of the inlet elbow.
Should have left it on when pulling out the intake elbow. Unnecessary $99 cost there.
I discovered that it is possible to reinstall the vacuum unit for the supercharger bypass valve in such a way as to jam the valve in the open position.
My first test drive was very disappointing because the supercharger was not functioning because of this.
If it were not because of the fact that I had to take the EGR unit out a second time I am not sure how long it would have taken me to discover what I had inadvertently done.
My short test drive in very wet conditions was so much better with very short WOT runs.
Seems to have noticeably more power with some wheel spin.
Future plans:
Dyno run.
Bored out throttle body.
Mina exhaust.
Dyno run to see what benefits the above mods make.
I have added two 6" fans to the front of my SC radiator that I installed.
I was also somewhat disappointed with what I considered to be a lack of performance increase with the rebuilt supercharger and 2.6 pulley.
I also noticed on kick down acceleration that the transmission would change up and down and up again as if it could not make up its mind what gear to be in and the changes are way down from the redline.
This occurred both in sport and standard settings.
Yesterday I disconnected the battery cables and touched them together briefly.
Wow what a difference.
Whether it will last or not is another matter however the car redlines going from 1st to second to 3rd and there is a slight chirp from the tires. I was on a local back road with the occasional house so did not want to go faster.
I did this several times, same thing. Also on backing off the transmission did not upshift for maybe 2-3 seconds something I have not noticed happen before.
Sorry to hear that! I also had to remove the SC twice on my STR. It DOES get easier with practice too.
Did you slot the back mounting hole on the blower as per Brutal's suggestion? It's a good suggestion and makes removal easier. Especially the second time!
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04-23-2016, 12:56 PM
