I had an aux adapter put in my radio a couple of years ago. It has been working fine, but the fuse blew on it (actually it didn't blow, but the connection in the holder was weak). It is behind the ashtray. I removed the console and ashtray and replaced the fuse and all seemed fine. As I was reassembling I was testing after putting the ashtray back in and the radio quit working, then the car started throwing all of the codes (air suspension fault, DSC, etc) and when I took the key out of the ignition the headlights started flashing left and right. I disconnected the battery and reconnected. I can't find any bare wires or anything like that. But something serious seems to have happened. Any ideas?

 

I would think that you should remove again the bits you have put back and look for any

trapped wires or wires pulled out of place etc.

When you get lots of random codes as you describe it often points to bad

or broken earths (grounds) there may be earths in the area where you have been

working but the diagram in the electrical guide is not clear where they are.

 

Fitz,

Just a couple of random thoughts:

I'm wondering if you may have triggered part of the security system?

If the battery was connected while you were doing the work in the center console, perhaps you accidentally shorted something that tripped something in the security system or blew an unrelated fuse.

Have you scanned for diagnostic trouble codes?

Cheers,

Don

 

The 2 previous responses are highly likely but it occurred to me in reading this that the radios also required some code in order to operate so as to foil radio thieves from having a ready market for their stolen goods.

Is it possible that in working with the aux adapter you disconnected the radio or otherwise disturbed its connectors in such a way as to disable it and set off the alarms?

Just a SWAG on my part as my 2004 has a 4digit code tucked into the radio handbook.

 

After leaving the battery disconnected overnight, I hooked it back up, cycled through the lock/unlock on the key fob a couple of times, stood on my head and wiggled my toes and everything started working again - almost. Codes went away, radio worked. When I tried to start it, the starter didn't stay engaged. It kinda went crank-stop-crank-stop-crank-stop. Then the radio quit working and everything lit up again (codes).

I have checked all of the wiring and can't find a problem, but it seems related to the radio. I have the handbook but can't find instructions on setting the alarm (nor can I find the code in the book, but I suppose I can get it from the dealer). I did a search in the forum and didn't find it either. Can you provide those here? Thanks.

Ps. The battery seems to be strong. Connections clean.

 

With the starter giving problems, you might want to build a little more confidence in the strength of your battery. My XJ has never shown corroded battery connectors. A weak battery can cause a multitude of oddball symptoms in these XJ's. What is the age of the battery?

 

Wow rhankey, you are a genius. I do not believe in coincidences, but I went ahead and put a charger on it for an hour or so and it fired right up and the codes cleared. I have never had a bit of problem with the battery, but I checked my records and it is 5 years old. Why would it cause trouble at the moment when I was working on the radio? Just to make me sick with anxiety? (I initially thought I had somehow trashed the entire computer system even though I know that I did not short anything out. I was just replacing a *&^% fuse!)

Well, it's one of those bad thing-good things. Next week we are going on a 5000 mile trip to visit family and friends. Better that I found the problem now even though it cost me a year's life.

Thanks to everyone who took the time to contribute!

Fitz

 

When the car remains awake (e.g. when you work inside on the console with lights on), substantial current is drawn from the battery.
If it was already a bit weak, that can be enough to have its voltage below some threshold that triggers a Xmas tree and inhibits cranking.

 

Yeah. The more I thought about it, the more sense it made. The car always fires right up - no strain on the battery. While I was in there, the interior lights were on, I kept turning the ignition on to check things until I found the problem with the fuse holder, which meant the headlights came on because I was in the garage. So a battery on its dying breath couldn't handle it. It was a gut-wrenching experience, but I'm glad it happened now rather than while I was on the road somewhere.

 

Fitz,

If you are considering replacing the battery before you leave on your trip, consider the Exide NASCAR Extreme Silver Shield L5/49 battery, which is $109.00 from, of all places, Home Depot.

Our member Box (David) has conducted extensive research on batteries that are suitable for the X350, which is designed to run at higher charging voltages than most cars to meet the requirements of the original Varta batteries that used silver calcium technology. Unfortunately no company is currently making a silver calcium battery to fit the X350. Typical lead acid and AGM batteries do not like these higher charging voltages, but David confirmed with Exide that the NASCAR Extreme battery will have no trouble with them.

I replaced the AutoZone Duralast Gold battery in our '04 with the Exide NASCAR Extreme and the engine cranks noticeably faster, and so far I haven't had any periodic instances of multiple spurious fault codes being triggered at startup.

Here's the link:

Exide Extreme L5/49 Auto Battery-L5/49X - The Home Depot

Cheers,

Don

 

Thanks for the suggestion!