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05 VDP. Trunk ( boot ) latch releases but not enough to open Opens fine with key. Pull down motor woks fine. I guess I need to know how to remove lock assy from deck lid for adjustment or repairs. Any help appreciated. Thanks.
Best bet IMO is to replace with a new actuator but not cheap @ 175 GBP
The fault is a bad contact in the actuator-possible to dismantle but very hard to rebuild unless you take lots of photos.
Not many used ones around either.
Opening relies on the gas struts lifting the lid slightly on opening, if they are not as good as they were, the lid won't open very far. I had this with my last X350 and a set of new struts cured the problem. I could raise the lid by hand OK and it did stay up, but some gas had obviously gone. Eventually the lid won't stat up if you leave it that long.
Not sure if I've ever seen (on this forum) someone successfully repair the things. I just ordered one for my 07 XJR; about $220 USD.- same symptoms as yours
The trunk struts get weak in cold weather, but if gently lifting the lid while attempting to open with button (or remote) ain't working, then order a latch
Not sure if I've ever seen (on this forum) someone successfully repair the things. I just ordered one for my 07 XJR; about $220 USD.- same symptoms as yours
The trunk struts get weak in cold weather, but if gently lifting the lid while attempting to open with button (or remote) ain't working, then order a latch
I think he needs to replace the struts NOT the latch. Struts can be had for about US$25 each plus shipping from AutoPartsWAY.ca.
But, if you reread my post, you'll see that struts usually ain't the unlatching problem - even if they actually need replacing (and most original OE struts do, especially come cold weather)
Okay - I am weighing in because I just went through a month of dealing with this. Bought not one but TWO used actuator/latch motor assemblies. This is likely why Meirion1 recommended a new part. the part number is C2C1740 - But I will add this. While BOTH of the used ones I got had similar behavior - (partial open, but fails to fully unlatch, requiring the key to completely spin the latch - mixed results with "soft close" meaning sometimes a fairly "un-Jaguar like slam" is required to get the actuator to close the latch.) - I DID have some success.
The most annoying part of the whole episode was they latch worked perfectly... well it worked, and opened and closed the trunk, but never felt particularly strong. Being the "Tim the Toolman" in my family, I decided to turbo charge it. More precisely, I noticed it wasn't aligned well in the cutout in the decklid, being a bit skewed diagonally. So, master mechanic that I am, I adjusted it. After which it started failing. You could just see me beam with pride at exposing the weakness in the engineering. Sort of. So I re-adjusted and then re-re-adjusted it, never getting it any better. Next move, find an inexpensive used part. When I discovered there ARE no inexpensive used ones, I ponied up $110 for one, only to STILL have the same issue.
At this point I started thinking I had a wiring fault, poor connection, etc. After the SECOND eBay purchase produced similar results I bit the bullet and forund one here for $201: https://parts.whiteallenjaguar.com/o...RoCCKcQAvD_BwE
Guess what? I haven't put it in yet. When I returned the two failed used parts, I put my original latch back in, and carefully aligned it. AND... it's working. 100% consistently. Will I return the new part? It might say "Idiot" on my forehead, but it doesn't say "moron" No, I am keeping it for when the unit finally fails, since all anecdotal info indicates its NOT going to work forever. Or even the rest of 2018 most likely.
Final note from all the threads I read. Yes, having strong lift struts can make a difference and help pop the trunk with a weak actuator. They are certainly worth a try and cheaper than the actuator - as low as $22 a set up to $60-75 for OEM ones. ALSO helpful. Twist out the two rubber "alignment/contact points on either side of the decklid. They are black rubber and if you twist them out to the maximum extension (use a bit of lubricant such as soapy water/protectant/light oil to prevent tearing the rubber)
Lastly, there IS a spring in the base of the catch on the trunk floor - it's the .5" diameter round black plastic post right behind the catch on the base. It has a fairly strong spring under it to push the trunk lid open when your use the fob, remote or release inside the car. I was almost ready to replace that with a new spring when mine started working again. Since I adjusted it the last time. I am sure every situation can have different causes, but note that the ONLY position that I had success with was: Centered in the opening from left-right sides. From front to back, I moved it the opposite of what I did prior to it failing. I pushed it latch all the way forward and.. it'e been working. For now. `
But, if you reread my post, you'll see that struts usually ain't the unlatching problem - even if they actually need replacing (and most original OE struts do, especially come cold weather)
I agree. In fact my latch failure started right AFTER replacing the lift struts, causing further confusion on what caused failure. The more likely cause, in my case was "aligning" the latch, thinking I was putting things right. Confirms my preferred version of the old adage "if it ain't broke, don't break it."
12-06-2018, 08:02 PM
No, I am keeping it for when the unit finally fails, since all anecdotal info indicates its NOT going to work forever. Or even the rest of 2018 most likely. 
