Upper alternator bolt access
I am trying to swap out my alternator and so far I am stumped.
Problem is access to the upper bolt. I cannot see it or even feel it.
I think I feel the flange but it does not seem to have a bolt in it.
On my new alternator I can see the flange for the upper bolt so I know the positioning.
I was hoping to be able to "swing" the alternator up having taken out the lower bolt but with reasonable force it will not budge.
How the heck do I get at that bolt?
Problem is access to the upper bolt. I cannot see it or even feel it.
I think I feel the flange but it does not seem to have a bolt in it.
On my new alternator I can see the flange for the upper bolt so I know the positioning.
I was hoping to be able to "swing" the alternator up having taken out the lower bolt but with reasonable force it will not budge.
How the heck do I get at that bolt?
Looking at other threads it appears that there is a ferrule or sleeve in one end of the flange that holds the lower bolt.
If that is the case I will try knocking it out sufficiently to swing the alternator up.
After removing the engine support and bracket I can just see what looks like a bolt protruding rearwards thru the upper alternator flange.
When I am wide awake tomorrow will have another go at feeling for the other end of that bolt.
This is absolutely by far the most awkwardly positioned alternator I have ever replaced!
I also so far have not been able to budge the electrical connector!
If that is the case I will try knocking it out sufficiently to swing the alternator up.
After removing the engine support and bracket I can just see what looks like a bolt protruding rearwards thru the upper alternator flange.
When I am wide awake tomorrow will have another go at feeling for the other end of that bolt.
This is absolutely by far the most awkwardly positioned alternator I have ever replaced!
I also so far have not been able to budge the electrical connector!
Could not wait unitil tomorrow.
There is no ferrule/sleeve and the upper bolt is "fixed". Once I removed the nut from that bolt I was able, with some considerable force, swing the alternator up and slide it back off the upper bolt.
Reaching thru where the engine support bracket was with pliers I was able to depress the clip on the electrical connector and pull it off. Sounded like it broke however it did not.
Tomorrow I will install my nice clean brand new alternator.
Btw I had to take off the upper engine support mount bolt from the already "undone" engine mounting bracket to get the two separated pieces, the engine mount and bracket, out.
Hope this helps anyone else that tackles this job on an X350.
There is no ferrule/sleeve and the upper bolt is "fixed". Once I removed the nut from that bolt I was able, with some considerable force, swing the alternator up and slide it back off the upper bolt.
Reaching thru where the engine support bracket was with pliers I was able to depress the clip on the electrical connector and pull it off. Sounded like it broke however it did not.
Tomorrow I will install my nice clean brand new alternator.
Btw I had to take off the upper engine support mount bolt from the already "undone" engine mounting bracket to get the two separated pieces, the engine mount and bracket, out.
Hope this helps anyone else that tackles this job on an X350.
Last edited by jackra_1; Nov 8, 2017 at 08:25 PM.
When I replaced my alternator earlier this year the engine had to be lifted and supported from above, the passenger side motor mount removed and the alternator accessed from underneath. It was by far the most difficult alternator I have ever replaced.
While I am in there I am replacing the engine mounts even tho the original really look good.
Trending Topics
It better !!!!!!!!
Funny but my battery just died in my truck just when I need to go get oil for the XJR. Have to borrow my wife's car now.
Just finishing everything on the rhs of XJR. About to tackle lhs where I will have to drop the steering rack.
I figured I would do an oil change while I am at it.
Funny but my battery just died in my truck just when I need to go get oil for the XJR. Have to borrow my wife's car now.
Just finishing everything on the rhs of XJR. About to tackle lhs where I will have to drop the steering rack.
I figured I would do an oil change while I am at it.
Well the battery red light is still there!
I am getting 13.85 volts with engine running at idle and 12.78 volts across battery terminals with engine off.
The test sheet that came with the alternator says "voltage regulator set point" is 14.18 volts.
I am getting 13.85 volts with engine running at idle and 12.78 volts across battery terminals with engine off.
The test sheet that came with the alternator says "voltage regulator set point" is 14.18 volts.
From the Workshop manual, Section 4, Electrical;
Vehicles fitted with 3.5L or 4.2L engine (SC1 generator)
The battery charging voltage is determined by the temperature of the generator. In cold conditions, starting the vehicle from cold the battery voltage will be between 14.2 volts and 15.1 volts and will reduce as the engine warms up. In hot conditions starting the vehicle when the engine is already warm the battery voltage will be between 13.5 volts and 14.3 volts.
Last edited by Box; Nov 9, 2017 at 05:46 PM.
Thank you Box.
I have contacted the seller with those details and what I get as readings.
Will see what they say.
I have read where some people have swapped out the regulator so not sure whether that is possible with this unit or even if I am capable of doing that.
In any case I need a long rest before I tackle this again!!
I have contacted the seller with those details and what I get as readings.
Will see what they say.
I have read where some people have swapped out the regulator so not sure whether that is possible with this unit or even if I am capable of doing that.
In any case I need a long rest before I tackle this again!!
Thank you Box.
I have contacted the seller with those details and what I get as readings.
Will see what they say.
I have read where some people have swapped out the regulator so not sure whether that is possible with this unit or even if I am capable of doing that.
In any case I need a long rest before I tackle this again!!
I have contacted the seller with those details and what I get as readings.
Will see what they say.
I have read where some people have swapped out the regulator so not sure whether that is possible with this unit or even if I am capable of doing that.
In any case I need a long rest before I tackle this again!!
I have requested a return of this alternator.
I will take the original alternator to Autozone and get them to test it.
If it tests good than I have a wiring/connection issue.
If it tests bad I will get an alternator from Autozone IF it tests at 14.25 volts or better.
Everything happens at once. My truck starter just died and my wife is gone for 2 days So might risk driving the Jag to get all of this done.
Seller accepted return and shipping costs so thats pretty helpful.
I will take the original alternator to Autozone and get them to test it.
If it tests good than I have a wiring/connection issue.
If it tests bad I will get an alternator from Autozone IF it tests at 14.25 volts or better.
Everything happens at once. My truck starter just died and my wife is gone for 2 days So might risk driving the Jag to get all of this done.
Seller accepted return and shipping costs so thats pretty helpful.
Last edited by jackra_1; Nov 10, 2017 at 10:54 AM.
I have not had good success with the alternators and starters from parts houses either. I've found that removing the one in the vehicle and taking it to a local automotive electrical shop for testing and overhaul is the best route.
This also ensures the unit fits back into the vehicle it came out of!
This also ensures the unit fits back into the vehicle it came out of!
The problem is so much work accessing the alternator.
Anyone know whether there is a repair kit available with a rectifier? None listed that I can see for a 2005 XJR. However I was wondering if this alternator is used in a Lincoln whatever or some other car?
I am waiting on the Autozone alternator which should arrive by end of next week.
Monday or Tuesday will take original in to Autozone to test.
I see in the JTIS the "generator" for my car is only rated at 130 amps. I was expecting higher.
In searching on-line I found a new Denso regulator however it is for 220 amps.
The listing states it replaces a whole load of other regulators for Ford.
If push comes to shove I will look at the regulator in my original unit and compare.
Monday or Tuesday will take original in to Autozone to test.
I see in the JTIS the "generator" for my car is only rated at 130 amps. I was expecting higher.
In searching on-line I found a new Denso regulator however it is for 220 amps.
The listing states it replaces a whole load of other regulators for Ford.
If push comes to shove I will look at the regulator in my original unit and compare.
Rather than Auto Zone, for an alternator there's a place here, that rebuilds yours with all new internal parts. The same quality as stock, or better, usually in a single day, or buy the parts and do it yourself. Great hole in the wall place, that's been there forever, and has a great reputation, for fixing your electrical, as well as many other issues, the first time, at a FAIR price.








