I repaired the window lift switchpack in the driver's door. I lost the second 'extra push/pull' on two of the windows which makes the window run all the way without having to hold the button.

On getting the pack out I discovered that the top and bottom halves of the pack are held together by six tiny plastic 'latches', obviously designed for ease of assembly, and that the switches operate by plungers in the top half pressing down onto a mat (like you get inside a TV remote) which contacts a p/c board in the bottom half of the pack.

Several of the quite thin pieces beneath two of these latches had broken (and a third was showing signs of strain) allowing the two halves of the pack to move apart rather than pressing down the plungers properly.

I repaired it with some plastic angle (had to buy 6 ft, needing about 5 inches !) and fixed them between the two halves with epoxy adhesive (Araldite Rapid).

All works fine now, but I'll never be able to get it apart again if anything goes wrong inside !

 

• Sharpened the claws on my big cat by putting 4 new BFGoodrich comp-2 A/S tires on it
• Topped up the coolant (managed to buy a bottle of the orange stuff on the weekend)
• Purchased new front Baer Decela Sport Rotors (drilled and slotted)
• Purchased new Akebono Euro UP front pads
• Cleared a pesky reoccurring P0420 bank1 code

I'll be attempting the front brake rotor & pad change this weekend. My first time, so hoping I don't screw it up.

 

Sorry to hear about your misfortune. That's the reason i do my own work, if a mistake was made, i learned something. Not likely to do that again, i hope. But the garage makes one, you learn a different lesson, you learn to do it yourself.

 

Removed my air compressor pump as I lost one side air compression to the drivers front shock. Upon removing it I then discovered the pump is NOT at fault as the pump only has one outlet to the rear valve block which then diverts the air to various pipes for the air suspension.


Upon removal of said pump I will service it with a new piston kits thanks to advice from Partick the cat.


I entered wrong radio code too many times and discovered the unit has a time delay which takes a while to clear. Removing the battery does not work as the radio remembers the wrong code was entered. I phoned Jaguar Marshall and discovered the code I got when I bought the car was WRONG!!!


They gave me proper code and told me how to clear and reset the wrong code.
I had to turn on the ignition to first click, to allow the radio on with-out the actual engine running.
It can take up to 2 hours for the radio computer to finally revert back to asking for the code again.
It took 1 hour 20mins for my one to reset and ask for the code again.
Entered correct code and voila, on came the radio once again.


I watched the message "Please Wait..." for all this time while thinking of what next to do to fix my air-suspension problem.

 

Removed the cat box from under the Jaguar today, cleared the clutter from the steel pan conversion, filter,& trans fluid change. Took for a run, threw a mass air flow sensor code, cleaned that thing, a while back, replaced the air filter, & all was fine for a while. Anybody else have a similar issue, & know how to test them? Or is this a symptom of another problem? Looked for leaks in the plumbing after the sensor,found none, the car runs great. Do i need a new sensor???

 

Just dropped off my 20" wheel to have a crack in the inner lip repaired, second one on this wheel, love the look on the XJR but can be a pain.

 

Looks like i poked the Jag in the eye. Replaced the mass air sensor, was tripping the po101 code. Well now that code is gone, but PO171, & PO174 are coming up. the auto zone replaced the sensor, but tripped it again, W T F???

 

4 wheel Akebono pads, paint rotor hats and ebrake calipers, clean, fresh dot 4, clay bar wheels...

 

This!.. Plasti Dip!

From Black to Silver Metallic to Raw Titanium Pearl, which created a Gold & Silver look depending on what angle you're looking from. I'm gonna post a thread & video etc...

 

Thread locked my transmission linkage bolts, before I had to go hunting on the road for them later.

 

Fuel filter and oil change.

-mag

 

Installed new NGK plugs, front Baer sports rotors & red stuff pads. Then washed & waxed it, only for a bird to take a **** on it.

 

Par for the course

 

Garage told me they got code C1424 Front left damper circuit open and C2302 leveling plausibility error...they ask me to order 2 front air suspensions and better the Wabco pump as well..any one can tell if this is correct move..Thanks

 

Greased the bonnet lock mechanism as it was looking really dry and caked in dirt

 

"Garage told me they got code C1424 Front left damper circuit open and C2302 leveling plausibility error...they ask me to order 2 front air suspensions and better the Wabco pump as well..any one can tell if this is correct move..Thanks"
__________________

Erik

You will get more response to this if you start a new thread.

I would advise you not to buy anything yet!

Please describe all the symptoms of your car first of all.

Bob

 

Replaced both sides with new Lemforder rear toe links and roll bar links.

 

Had the big 'banana' arm bushes and front damper bushes changed, and a transmission fluid and filter change.

Now all I have to do is the fuel filter (that's under the hood on the Tdvi, one of the few things that's easier than on a petrol 350) and an oil change. Why did I leave it to November

 

Did several searches for a cold air intake system with a box/heat shield but none available for the X350. Fabricated a template for a box/heat shield, will continue when the weather warms a little.

 

Oil and filter change and while I had the wind deflectors off took the drivers side under cover off and changed the fuel filter.

Took longer to take off all the under shields than it did to drain the oil and change the two filters....almost.