Hi all,

Can anyone help with any special techniques to remove the front bumper from a Jag XJR, 2003 (X350)?

I'm of the understanding that the procedure is,
1 - remove grille
2 - remove screws connecting bumper via wheel arch covers
3 - push down and then release all electrical connections, etc.

Grille removal was easy. However both screws holding the wheel arch cover to the bumper are not coming off. One side turns perpetually, never coming out. The other side is corroded and only gives a small turn, which results in a lot of crunching noises from within.

Naturally I next planned to cut them off, though failed using a dremal to make any progress (drill head has snapped so closes that option). Very awkward for hacksaw piece access, though I'll continue to try of course.

Not been able to locate any other threads discussing any issues with x350 bumper removal so hope you guys may be able to shed some light.

btw, reason for bumper removal, air suspension has collapsed at back so attempting to replace the piston ring of the air pump for the suspension which is located front LHS behind the front bumper.

Cheers in advance guys.

Jim

 

Do not worry about those screws. They do not connect to the bumper.

 

Notice on the side there is no attachment for a screw. This is my 2004 XJR. I doubt yours is any different.
When I first removed my bumper I too wasted time with those screws.

 

Thanks John,

Managed to get one side hacksawed off.... eventually. (noticed your reply too late). Yeah, you're absolutely correct, not connected with bumper at all. Trying to get the other side off now, ignoring the screw but it's not budging.

Can't believe the manual PDF I found for x350 starts by saying take these off! Yeah, glad I only wasted half my time on it so far, I'll ignore the other side.

Bolts on bottom, where they connect to the sump guard, some of the bolts have the same corroded issues. Just wish it weren't pouring with rain while I'm doing this today.

Cheers for the reply!

Jim

 

 

Have you pulled the sides out? Where the bumper connects with the upper body above the side markers it pulls outwards not forward. If all other connections at the top and the grill and the lower undershield of the radiator are disconnected the bumper will just fall to the ground unless supported.

 

If you look closely at my first pic immediately below the visible main bodywork where the bumper meets the body you will see plastic raised "clips". On the bumper there are corresponding clips which are in effect female counterparts that push in over the raised male clips to hold firm.

It takes quite a bit of force to pull these clips apart by pulling outward on the end of the bumper wrap around but they will pull apart.

 

You don't need to remove the bumper to gain access to the air pump.I removed the wheel and removed enough screws from the inner liner to pull the front of the liner down and this gave me enough space to remove the air pump.

 

See NEO cat post No. 8 and attached:

 

Thanks NEO Cat,

This is fantastic news if I can access this way. Never rains but it pours though as now have one lug now that just won't budge for me to get wheel off!

Cheers for the help John and Neo

JIm

 

I hope you made it through. It is true that you can remove the pump through the wheel arch by removing the liner. The pump is suspended on three threaded posts, using nuts , springs and collar washers to keep it suspended and not vibrate the whole car when it runs. The biggest issue I had was getting the sucker back on holding it up with one hand and trying to assemble the springs washers Etc. That pump gets a bit heavy after a while holding it up while trying to start the nuts on the posts with all the appropriate Springs and washers in place. Anyone who has done it will know exactly what I mean.

 

Thanks Blairware, and thanks for the advice about replacing the desiccant beads. Yeah since taking it off, the putting it back together is definitely going to be a pain.

I've got pump off car thankfully. Obstacle after obstacle with this one. Ceased lug nut hampered way for a couple of days, though got that off now. down to final last bolt on the pump itself to access the piston ring. Will need to hacksaw one of them off as the soft bolt is pearing away.

Thanks again for the help everyone!

Jim

 

On the topic of those clips...
They all eventually rust, break and spin. They really should be replaced with every 'use' but few bother. You can buy stainless steel replacements for not a lot of money from popular online marketplaces and whenever you access one for maintenance replace it with the stainless version to save the swearing in 12 months time when you need to access it again.

When I encounter a spinning clip the quickest and cleanest way to remove them is to melt the plastic and pull the bolt/screw head through it. I use a die grinder to heat up the screw head until it glows red then quickly pull it through the plastic, so a die grinder head in a Dremel would do exactly the same job. It leaves a clean round hole which is covered by the replacement stainless washer + screw. Once the plastic part has been removed you have enough access to cleanly cut the bolt out and remove the remains of the clip.

 

+1 on that. Try this. Hold it up in place and measure the distance to the ground. Cut off an old broom handle or something similar an inch or two longer than your measured distance. Then hold the pump up in place with one hand and 'wedge' the broomstick under it with your other hand until it's tight. That will hold the pump in place while you assemble the springs, washers, etc. This worked for me and was a lot easier on my arm.