Is it possible to get the EGR unbolted while in the car?
Is the same bolt under the end of the SC as in the STR?
I sure think these Jag techs earn their keep doing this.

Due to a rear engine coolant leak, and a few other weak hoses, it seems the hose under the SC for the TB and EGR cooling have gone and leak a gallon /10min.
2005, 150,200 miles, 1st real problem.

I plan on now replacing most of the hoses and I have now removed the blower outlet and TB, but am not able to physically get to the EGR valve to remove that. I have seen the write-ups on the the STR but a few things seem different. I have most all the gaskets and hoses to put it back together.

1. Is it possible to just unbolt the EGR from the SC intake or is it best to remove it in total from the exhaust manifold as well?
   
2. The wring harness runs across the back of the SC intake. WIth age and heat it is now VERY stiff. It is only the outer plastic, the wires are still good.
   I am cutting the cover off as necessary and will replace with some new or some silicone.
   
3. How is the cosmetic rain guard at the bottom of the windscreen held in? It seems glued? It would give some more space.
   
4. Looking with a remote camera, I am not even seeing the center rear SC mounting bolt called out on the STR. There does seem to be one on each side on a bracket that is attached to the SC inlet.
   
5. How to get to the bolt UNDER the SC inlet, if it is indeed there?
   

The space at the back of the SC in let is VERY VERY tight. Working on my XJS V12 is luxurious in comparison.

I have tried deep sockets, long drives, wobble drives, universal drives.
It would be hell if I damage anything back there. I need a sling to hold me up too. I did take the grill off to reduce the chance of damage there.

Am really looking for some words of encouragement and any thoughts to try and do something I have not yet done.
I will be back at it tomorrow. I am sure it will be easy to put back together, right?

Let me know if anyone wants any photos while it is apart.

I am also referring to the manual segment that was posted.
http://www.mediafire.com/view/?897kw8soaouia2k
and the other posts on R&I
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...r-i-pdf-84396/

 

I'm just doing this as we speak so I've noted down my comments below. If there's anything else you need just let me know.

Is it possible to just unbolt the EGR from the SC intake or is it best to remove it in total from the exhaust manifold as well?

You have to remove it from the elbow as well as the exhaust manifold. It's 2 8mm bolts that attach the EGR to the inlet elbow. I used a 1/4" drive 6 point socket as you really don't want to round these off. For the exhaust manifold bolts I used a long 13mm socket and 2 long extensions for the forwardmost bolt and a 1/4" drive with a stubby ratchet for the rear most bolt. They are a right pain to get to. Make sure you don't round them off!! Some plus gas or American equivalent would probably help here.



The wring harness runs across the back of the SC intake. WIth age and heat it is now VERY stiff. It is only the outer plastic, the wires are still good.
I am cutting the cover off as necessary and will replace with some new or some silicone.
How is the cosmetic rain guard at the bottom of the windscreen held in? It seems glued? It would give some more space.

I removed the false bulkhead at the back of the engine to give an extra inch or two, it's held in by a couple of those "scrivets" and is reluctant to come out, needs a bit of fiddling to get it out. But well worth getting it out.

Have you removed the wiper blades? Remove the little caps and the bolts that hold each one on and mark their rest positions. Then rotate the wiper arms on their shafts and remove them. The small "scrivets" need to be removed and then you can pull it up and away from the windscreen. There is a tight fitting tongue that holds the scuttle panel to the windscreen, it pulls off with some careful persuasion

.
Looking with a remote camera, I am not even seeing the center rear SC mounting bolt called out on the STR. There does seem to be one on each side on a bracket that is attached to the SC inlet.
How to get to the bolt UNDER the SC inlet, if it is indeed there?

It is indeed. I removed the EGR valve then removed the 4 T40 Torx bolts that hold the induction elbow on to the back of the supercharger and then the 2 bolts 10mm on the sides of the induction elbow. I take it you have removed the throttle body and the induction duct ( the bit that bolts to the top of the charger and outlets into the intercoolers. ) The 4 torx bolts are a massive pain to get to but removal of the induction elbow is the only way to get to the 10mm bolt under it. Once you have done this and removed all other necessary coolant bits the charger will lift out. Showing you the 2 hoses running under it!

I haven't put it back together yet as I am machining the supercharger snout down to fit the 10% pulley.

Any questions just let me know, if you haven't removed the expansion tank you'll have to, to enable a 1/2" breaker bar to release the tension on the supercharger belt.

 

Thanks Simon, the tips on the tools to access the bolts will help.
I had the wipers and the "scrivets" off. Does seem to need a lot of persuasion as it seems to be 'glued' on.

I also think removing the shock tower brace may help that little bit. Got most the bolts off that but need to pull the rain guard off.

While I can see the hoses are now a bit mushy cf the new hoses, my problems only started after I changed the expansion tank, and the new tank came with a 140kPa pressure cap, and the old was 120kPa. I am not sure if these actually vent as I think the system is truly 'sealed' but wonder if it is coincidence or not.

Some of these hoses are 'reasonable' though some are quite unreasonable in the pricing.

 

It may also help to remove the box around the cabin air filter set up, I didn't do this as mine is RHD so the layout is mirrored. Removing the strut brace will also allow you to remove the fake bulkhead. The scuttle panel shouldn't be glued in but the tongue that attaches to the windscreen is a tight fit and I used a trim tool to gently prise it out a bit at a time.

 

Hi Simon, I owe you one!

Knowing that the rain guard just clips in at the base so that then unclipping it, removing the false bulkhead and heater air box and all the decaying fiber board and the strut braces, opened it up so much. Only then took about another 40 mins to unbolt the EGR and pull the intake elbow off and unbolt the SC and remove it. And yes, it was then obvious where the hole was in that cooling hose there.




I also think that my idle air trim issue with an air leak that was caused by the brake booster vacuum line connection that was basically decomposing and loose letting in air that was causing my fuel trims to go rich at idle.

Do you happen to know if the kit PN# C2S15816 solves the connection issue? KIT, BRAKE BOOSTER - Terrys Jaguar Parts - C2S15816

Mine has the brass fitting on the elbow, but no Oring and the plastic fitting was rock hard and fell apart.

Again, many thanks, you turned my concerns to relief after getting it out so easy in the end by just pulling more apart, and I get to clean it all up too!

 

I haven't seen that kit before but like you I am replacing everything around that area, the whole pipe that goes from the master cylinder to the engine should be the link below but check against your VIN in case there's a difference.
PIPE-VACUUM - Terrys Jaguar Parts - C2C20161

which is 22 dollars and it might be as wise to replace the whole pipe.
Luckily yours is before 2006 as the secondary air injection hose on mine just snapped when i touched it, I think the heat makes all the plastic components on the engine go very hard and brittle.

I agree on the prices of the hoses and gaskets, in total my bill for parts was £500.00 inclusive of an oil filter and the serpentine belts. But certainly considerably cheaper than getting the dealership to do it!

 

I have confirmed that the C2S15816 kit contains the parts for the brake vacuum line.
I am still waiting on one pipe to replace on the s/c intercoolers.
It has all gone together OK. I removed most of the insulation on the false fire wall and added aluminium tape to reflect some of the heat.

 

Thanks for the pictures. Yes that's the usual leak in the valley hose, it's a matter of when, not if...

Oh and Simon, welcome to the forum! When you get some time post an intro in the new members area and put up a thread showing us your Alcon conversion