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For way longer than I should have, I put off dealing with an intense wobble and a great many clacks and clunks from the right rear wheel. After removing the wheel it appeared there were monumental amounts of play from a horizontal bolt and I assumed it was just a bushing. Having struggled with the bolt for a good while I got it out by pounding the end through the hub with a knife sharpener and a hammer after removing the nut from the end. In removing it a number of metal shavings and what look like bearings came out. I watched this video (
) and found what I was dealing with was the fulcrum shaft and it’s respective bearings. I then moved to SNH Barrat and found this diagram (image 1) and it looks like there is just one bearing? (15). I’ve yet to remove the pivot shaft (13) but I assume I will need to replace that as well. If anyone has done this, has photos of everything in place, or just has a better
grasp on it than I any advice is appreciated. I’ll include a few photos of what is left of my bearings and this might shed light on why I don’t very well understand how things are supposed to be positioned haha!
Last edited by British_Atlantic; Oct 28, 2018 at 11:06 PM.
There are two taper roller bearings in the rear hub, CAC4610. Pivot sleeve is MNE4520AA. Not a fun job but must be done in your case. I have no first-hand experience and don't really want any! Get yourself a new axle nut, JZN100035. Consider putting in new rear wheel bearings and seals if in any doubt about them (like high mileage).
After reviewing Katar83's instructions, I see you won't need a new axle nut unless you already removed it and decided to replace the wheel bearings. The axle and wheel bearings don't have to be removed to do the fulcrum bearings. Good to know!
I have carried out this job, some years ago. You do not need to undo the wheel hub, as has been stated. The most difficult bit was drifting out the old bearing track. There is a notch on the hub assembly, which leaves a tiny bit of the rear of the bearing track exposed. A long thin drift inserted from the opposite end is required, and i was advised to use a dremel to cut through the bearing track to relieve some of the pressure holding it in. All a bit fiddly, but readily doable with a bit of patience.
Parts have been ordered from SNG Barratt, the shaft us on backorder from England, might be a minute but will update when the parts arrive. Thanks all for advice!
Tanks all for the assistance, greatly appreciated! When the parts came in I took a go and all went fairly smooth. I used a screwdriver inserted into the shaft snd hammered it out past the bearing, took a hacksaw to the shaft just behind the bearing, pounded the shaft the rest of the way out going the other way, cleaned as best I could, and as Katar83 stated, the outer part of the bearing was stuck for good, so rather than mess with them, I cleaned them up and reused them (they weren't damaged, just rust-welded in place). My spacers were stuck onto the shaft so I ended up having to go to the hardware store to find some washers to replace them.
All said and done the car makes significantly fewer clacks and clunks not to mention, it is monumentally more stable.
There is still a metallic clunk/rattle coming from the rear when going over bumps, could this me a tie rod or something of the nature?
There are a few things that could cause that, bad shock, shock bushing, tie rod end, etc. I would get under the car with a pry bar and check for play/looseness in the wheel and various points in the suspension. I took advantage of the car being on the lift while I was having tires put on to find my "clunking" in the front end, which turned out to be tie rod ends.
‘97 XJ6 Fulcrum Shaft Bearings Disintegrated.
