XJ XJ6 / XJR6 ( X300 ) 1995-1997

1996 XJ6 4.0 Inline 6 Camshaft Position Sensor

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Old Mar 25, 2018 | 05:05 AM
  #41  
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The Camshaft sensor has to be aligned when the Crankshaft sensor is on the open tooth on the front case toothed gear . XJRengineer ( one on the Jaguar engine design team ) had a different procedure of of looking in the oil fill cap and noticing the position # 3 intake valve and a different marking on the toothed gear on the front of the case . This procedure I have not done myself but with multiple rotations in starting your camshaft sensor alignment is suspect .

When the engine stalls do you notice the tach on zero before the real engine rotation is actually spun down to there . This is a test of the crankshaft sensor in that it controls the spark and injector timing as well as the fuel pump commanded on . The crankshaft sensor can partially fail and some of it's functions still working and not give a code . But then you changed that , doesn't mean the new part was any good off the shelf . Have you inspected and cleaned the 2 connectors on the ECU and crankshaft sensor as they have a history of corroding from water ingress .

Are you familiar with a ELM327 that sees all your sensor values from your ECU in realtime recording into a graph ? 12 bucks Ebay , free shipping .
 
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Old Mar 25, 2018 | 08:43 AM
  #42  
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Ok, you’ve cleaned a gunky throttle body that cured your idle issue.

I'm going to tell you to keep driving it. When I cleaned my throttle body, also curing a high idle (and sticky gas pedal), I also continued to experience some random stalling, but it eventually went away, as if the car was learning how to deal with an ungunked up throttle body.

For now, I would continue to drive an monitor. If you daily drive the car, I’d say you should be confident that stalling is gone in about 2 weeks. After a month you should be in the clear for sure. I daily drove my car, puttting on about 40 miles a day?
 
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Old Mar 25, 2018 | 01:35 PM
  #43  
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Thanks Lady P! I'm going to get one of those ELM327's, I've seen them but I've never been attracted to them so to speak.
Vee, you're right, I will keep driving. I'm getting on a full tank a little over 300 miles combined and I was getting 200 at the most, it was accelerated on every stop light of course.
 
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Old Mar 26, 2018 | 07:44 PM
  #44  
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Default Only stalling after starting engine

Hi there, I seem to have a very related problem and I really do not know what to try anymore...

So the 96 van den plas often stalls when starting the car when the engine is warm and accelerating for a bit and then stopping again. And it only stalls just after starting and accelerating a bit and then stopping. If it does not stall just after starting then it never stalls (e..g, not suddenly at a red light later on).
When I repeat starting and stalling for 4-6 times it normally works fine again.

I replaced Air mass flow, crank sensor and did throttle body cleaning but the issue remains.

Any ideas?
 
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Old Mar 26, 2018 | 07:53 PM
  #45  
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Idle air control valve? Vacuum leak? Not setting codes I assume?
 
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Old Mar 26, 2018 | 08:09 PM
  #46  
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Idle is fine. I just figured out today while driving that the turning off the engine, when it happens which rarely does is when the car is slowing down and it kind of "looses pace" and will go off. Today I "avoided" this from happening when it was about to by pressing quickly the gas pedal. I feel the car very well overall and I have no trouble at all starting it ever.
 
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Old Mar 26, 2018 | 09:41 PM
  #47  
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Originally Posted by ebrisec
Idle is fine. I just figured out today while driving that the turning off the engine, when it happens which rarely does is when the car is slowing down and it kind of "looses pace" and will go off. Today I "avoided" this from happening when it was about to by pressing quickly the gas pedal. I feel the car very well overall and I have no trouble at all starting it ever.
Hi ebrisec,

Did you ever check the transmission fluid level per posts #8 and #24? Jaguar issued at least one TSB regarding stalling while slowing down to stop or make a turn being caused by low transmission fluid. It must be checked hot, on a level surface, after running the gear selector lever through each gear position, pausing at each gear for a few seconds before moving on.

Cheers,

Don
 
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Old Mar 27, 2018 | 05:34 AM
  #48  
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I'm with Ric in RVA. I suspect the IACV.

I'm also looking in the direction of the EGR Valve as well. No gasket, but clean that thing up and see if it makes a difference.

Please post back the results of the transmission fluid level.
 
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Old Mar 27, 2018 | 06:33 PM
  #49  
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I've cleaned all the throttle body thoroughly.
The transmission fluid level is ok both in cold and hot, also after stoping in each gear.
 
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Old Mar 27, 2018 | 11:40 PM
  #50  
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There is a TSB in upgrading the EGR valve as well as updating the ECU and stronger throttle return spring so it would not idle too high high . This may have nothing to do with your stalling symptoms but something to keep in mind in EGR part #s . The TSB may not be honored today as it was a emissions issue and the change in Jaguar ownership . There will be a sticker if accomplished at the bottom of the TSB .

http://www.jagrepair.com/images/TSB/...all%20R493.pdf
 
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Old Jun 21, 2018 | 12:06 AM
  #51  
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Hi,
I recently had problems with the engine not running smoothly and sometimes not starting. It was cranking over, but not firing up. I also noticed that there would be rough running around 1300rpm to 1400rpm once it got going.
I decided to clean the Throttle Body and replace the Crank Position Sensor. This seems to have solved the problem and the engine now starts every time and runs smooth all the way through the revs.

The only thing that's bugging me is that the dimple on the Cam Position Sensor is not visible and after removing the CPS cover plate, the dimple is about 90 degrees away from the window.
Even though the car is running really well now, I am keen to get the CPS properly aligned. Even after reading that it is only used by the ECU during startup.
I am going to try the method to alight the Crank Position Sensor to the missing Crank tooth and see if I can realign the Cam Sensor.
Hopefully this will resolve the issue and help me sleep a little better. I will post and update once I have been able to get this done.
 
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Old Jun 21, 2018 | 07:21 AM
  #52  
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Since the Cam rotates one revolution per two revolutions of the crankshaft in a 4 cycle engine you can be one revolution off of the crankshaft position sensor in relation to the camshaft sensor rotation as you set it in the window . Without looking back on the camshaft sensor setting procedure in the TSB you would have to keep this in mind how a 4 cycle works in relationship to each others rotation . XJREngineer had a different procedure in verifying through the oil fill cap that the # 3 ( ? ) valve position is open or closed on the intake valve is in proper position with relation to the master # 1 cylinder as it is in the TDC of the ignition cycle which is where you set the camshaft sensor window dot . You would have to verify the firing order of the AJ16 to the earlier AJ6 as there was a change in cylinder numbers from front to back and the back to front between the two and if you are correctly looking at .

P.S. if you rotate the crankshaft one revolution with a 34 mm ( ? ) on the crankshaft bolt and notice a better difference on starting performance after you set your camshaft window you are progressing to the correct direction .

XJREnginneer made mention of the missing tooth of the front ring gear is different then the true 0 degree mark and biased so many degrees and there was a different mark to follow .


Sweet dreams gear head as you think this through .
 

Last edited by Lady Penelope; Jun 21, 2018 at 12:24 PM.
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