I just recently fixed several engine codes by replacing all of my coil packs. Then I took the car to autozone and was showing only one code. A P1775.
Took car to emissions check today so that I could fail since engine light is still on and order parts to try and fix the P1775 code. They print out the paper and the guy says "that's weird, there's no code showing. It should have code(s) right here".

The sheet reads:
TR_Number: 0
DTC:

I took the car right to Autozone afterwards and the guy says the same thing. That their reader won't pull any codes.

Where do I go from here?

 

Have you tried disconnecting the battery and leaving it disconnected for a "while" to let everything reset? Sometimes that clears a host of random maladies.

BTW a "while" depends on who you ask, but overnight is a sure thing, and really just a few minutes is probably enough too, especially if you are doing anything to "drain" any remaining power such as pressing the brake or having the doors open. Opinions vary

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The emission testing equipment might only recognize P0xxx codes and not P1xxx codes because only P0xxx codes are universal. A P1xxx or P2xxx code can be ANYTHING the manufacturer wants it to be.

A P1xxx code read by a universal reader will usually state.......'Manufacturers Specific Code, See Dealer for more info' or something like that.

The P1775 gearbox code has NO relevance to emissions. Your car should pass emissions but I don't live or work where this kind of testing is required.

bob gauff

 

I am in Cleveland Ohio. I guess I still will fail the test every time even if the car is showing no codes or showing codes related to just the transmission.

I did disconnect the battery for approx. one hour and reconnected. No change.

I just ordered a crank shaft position sensor since it seemed like the next possible step because at one time I was reading a P1775 and I'm thinking maybe it just comes and goes and I'm tired of dealing with it. And I ordered an obd-II scanner tool.

I'll most likely have to spend the $300 in parts to get a Repair Cap Waiver. Wondering if I can add the price of the OBD-II scanner to that. Ha.

 

Good moves, AmberJag. Get your own OBD-II and don't rely on the "Circle K" of auto parts. I wonder how they were able to read the code P1775 the first visit, but not the second? Regardless of reading the code, you fail emissions because the CEL is lit.

P1775 sometimes will set due to an engine stall. It doesn't necessarily mean there is a malfunction with the transmission. With the scanner you will be able to clear that code, which should also turn off the CEL, and it will not return unless there is an actual fault.

Replacing the CKPS is always prudent, before troubles with it eventually show up. But keep the old one as your spare.

Hopefully you can avoid the Waiver altogether.

 

UPDATE!!!

Ordered scanner and works great on the car. Erased codes so I could start drive cycles for maintenance. Car was showing a p0300 and a p1313. Car was through all run cycles except EVAP. This morning I started the car and it began the song and dance of dying at idle again. It has not done this since I replaced the coil packs two months ago and now all of a sudden it is doing it again. The check engine light illuminated again when the car stalled the second time and the two codes showing are p0727 and p1775.

I am almost certain that my car was testing the evap system this morning and there is something wrong with that part of it's brain to make it do this. The next thing I'm suspecting is the harness. The third thing is a leak somewhere in the evap system. Thoughts?

Note: There is a strange clicking noise coming from the gear box which happens occaissonaly but yesterday was very active and happening a lot.

 

Those are gearbox DTCs (two codes showing are p0727 and p1775).

Common when the engine stalls.

bob gauff

 

I understand that these are codes that tell me I've had a stall but I'm not getting any other codes that tell me why I'm having a stall.

I am now going through the drive cycles again and only have EVAP left. This morning I started up the car and it stalled again at idle. I drove it (keeping foot on the gas at stops to keep it from stalling) all the way to work on the highway for approx 8 miles with some city driving approx 3 miles. Got it to work and when it is idling it still wants to die. From experience it will continue to do this until it stalls several times then triggering my MIL light and then it will stop stalling at idle.

 

Have you cleaned the throttle body throat and butterfly? Buildup of gunk there can often cause stalling.

 

For anyone wondering what I did to fix my random stalls at idle, stalling in extreme hot weather, random codes being thrown, shaking, and a ton of other issues all leading to a variety of CEL codes I replaced all of the spark plugs and coil packs. Then replaced the idle air sensor. THEN I took off the air filter and let the car run until it chocked and died. An enormous black cloud came out of the tail pipes and I replaced the air filter, cleared out all codes and since then I have had no CEL, no stalling, no shaking, nothing.

 

So was that two coil replacements? One at the start of the thread and another mentioned yesterday?

Also - what would make the smoke?

Fingers crossed !