1996 xj6 Running Rich
#1
1996 xj6 Running Rich
So our 1996 xj6 is running rich and I'd like to tweak that if possible. Googling this issue brought up a list of possibilities, which started with the engine temperature sensor being bad, causing the ECM to add more fuel to the mix. I've checked the engine temperature sensor (just in front of the fuel rail) and it reads ~ 2300 to 2400 ohms across the terminals (harness connector not connected) when cold OR hot. Is this a valid way to measure whether it is good/bad? I've seen a you tube video where they put in a couple jumper wires to the harness and instead measure the voltage drop across the terminals. It seems odd that I get roughly the same readings (cold or hot) because the dash temperature gauge does appear to be working correctly.
Also, if this matters, I did note that when the engine is started cold the cooling fans come on immediately. From what I've read they should not come on till the engine is up to temperature, or the AC is on. Is that correct?
Thanks for any help/tip and trick with this.
Bobby
Also, if this matters, I did note that when the engine is started cold the cooling fans come on immediately. From what I've read they should not come on till the engine is up to temperature, or the AC is on. Is that correct?
Thanks for any help/tip and trick with this.
Bobby
#2
The coolant thermostats in these cars do go bad and the engine will run too cool and will run too rich. If you look at your temp. gauge it should be about in the middle when the engine is warmed up. The fans always run when the engine is running.
There are a number of other things that can cause too rich a mixture but this one is a cheap and easy fix.
There are a number of other things that can cause too rich a mixture but this one is a cheap and easy fix.
#3
The coolant thermostats in these cars do go bad and the engine will run too cool and will run too rich. If you look at your temp. gauge it should be about in the middle when the engine is warmed up. The fans always run when the engine is running.
There are a number of other things that can cause too rich a mixture but this one is a cheap and easy fix.
There are a number of other things that can cause too rich a mixture but this one is a cheap and easy fix.
Bobby
#5
Technically, you could have an engine being read by the ECU as being too cool even though the needle on your dash would show an accurate reading.
I just had that happen to me on my XJS. I thought it was the thermostat, and after replacing, my car could not get hotter than 179F. After replacing the sensor, I’m good at 192F. The needle was always showing I was in the middle....that should have been the dead giveaway that the thermostat was fine, and revealed the sensor as the culprit.
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Don B (04-07-2019)
#6
#7
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Bobby, Your sensor is telling the ECM the coolant is much colder than 14F/-10C. Here's the resistance chart from the Engine Management System manual:
Cheers,
Don
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#8
Hey Don
I feel a bit like a student questioning his university professor, but @Vee is right, there is a separate sensor for the gauge (on my X300 at least).
Also, I think you are misreading the table of temp/resistance. The OP reading was 2300-2400 ohms, which equates to around 20C (2.5KOhms)
I feel a bit like a student questioning his university professor, but @Vee is right, there is a separate sensor for the gauge (on my X300 at least).
Also, I think you are misreading the table of temp/resistance. The OP reading was 2300-2400 ohms, which equates to around 20C (2.5KOhms)
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Don B (04-08-2019)
#10
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Thanks for the corrections on all counts. We just moved and apparently my brain is even more fried than I realized! I should have known the X300 still has the separate sender for the gauge but I don't have one here at the moment to check and was too tired to pull up the schematic. Obviously my eyes were too tired to read even the resistance chart!
Cheers,
Don
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b1mcp (04-08-2019)
#11
Thanks all for the great info! I've ordered a new ecm coolant temp sensor. Along with a new top radiator hose. I think all the hoses might be original as they look really bad. So the bottom hose that runs under the intake manifold, can that be replaced from under the car on a lift? Or will the manifolds have to be removed?
Bobby
Bobby
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Don B (04-08-2019)
#13
A shop I use told me that the ******* hose can indeed be replaced without removing the manifold.
That shop was in the midst of replacing that hose while I had the intake manifold off because of a failed intake manifold gasket. Looked difficult to get to, but I would think if I had a lift, it would be doable.
Why aren’t you replacing the lower coolant hose, or the octopus hose? That one hose has more chances for failure than the upper does, for sure. And since you’ve already drained the system....kinda makes sense.
That shop was in the midst of replacing that hose while I had the intake manifold off because of a failed intake manifold gasket. Looked difficult to get to, but I would think if I had a lift, it would be doable.
Why aren’t you replacing the lower coolant hose, or the octopus hose? That one hose has more chances for failure than the upper does, for sure. And since you’ve already drained the system....kinda makes sense.
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Don B (04-09-2019)
#14
A shop I use told me that the ******* hose can indeed be replaced without removing the manifold.
That shop was in the midst of replacing that hose while I had the intake manifold off because of a failed intake manifold gasket. Looked difficult to get to, but I would think if I had a lift, it would be doable.
Why aren’t you replacing the lower coolant hose, or the octopus hose? That one hose has more chances for failure than the upper does, for sure. And since you’ve already drained the system....kinda makes sense.
That shop was in the midst of replacing that hose while I had the intake manifold off because of a failed intake manifold gasket. Looked difficult to get to, but I would think if I had a lift, it would be doable.
Why aren’t you replacing the lower coolant hose, or the octopus hose? That one hose has more chances for failure than the upper does, for sure. And since you’ve already drained the system....kinda makes sense.
Thanks!!
Bobby
#15
Today I received the new coolant sensor. Unfortunately the connector is wrong. The original uses the same metal clip that the injectors use. The replacement I received uses a different mechanism to hold the connector in place. They will not fit together. So I checked with some local parts stores (O'Riley's, Advanced, Etc...) and two of them had the part for a 96 XJ6, also sporting the same wrong connector. I'm wondering if I maybe look for a sensor from a different year might bring up the proper connector? Or I can make a pigtail with small spade connectors? Ideas? Pics Below.
Bobby
NOTE: Searching through the various parts stores, starting in 1995 they list this new part. If I look at 1994, they show the sensor with the proper connector. I wouldn't think a couple years would make a difference(?), Would it be OK to use a sensor for a 1994 XJ6? Or should I look at replacing the connector so that it fits the new style (because any time it needs to be replaced in the future it'll have the current connector)? Opinions?
Original Sensor
Original Connector
New Connector
Bobby
NOTE: Searching through the various parts stores, starting in 1995 they list this new part. If I look at 1994, they show the sensor with the proper connector. I wouldn't think a couple years would make a difference(?), Would it be OK to use a sensor for a 1994 XJ6? Or should I look at replacing the connector so that it fits the new style (because any time it needs to be replaced in the future it'll have the current connector)? Opinions?
Original Sensor
Original Connector
New Connector
Last edited by BobbyDing; 04-10-2019 at 12:13 PM.
#16
Wow, I just recently replaced mine. There’s plenty of options, and I believe many cars used that same part, so it’s quite common. They just goofed.
Replacement parts may have a black, brown or green plastic section (or even metal) but they all look the same, other than color.
They just sent you the wrong part. LHE1600AA, right?
Replacement parts may have a black, brown or green plastic section (or even metal) but they all look the same, other than color.
They just sent you the wrong part. LHE1600AA, right?
#17
Wow, I just recently replaced mine. There’s plenty of options, and I believe many cars used that same part, so it’s quite common. They just goofed.
Replacement parts may have a black, brown or green plastic section (or even metal) but they all look the same, other than color.
They just sent you the wrong part. LHE1600AA, right?
Replacement parts may have a black, brown or green plastic section (or even metal) but they all look the same, other than color.
They just sent you the wrong part. LHE1600AA, right?
Thanks,
Bobby
#18
Trust me on this one, going forward, always use the part number. What each car part store has in their databanks cannot be relied on. I find tons of errors when trying to purchase parts. You will be more knowledgable than the guys computer....most every time.
Ideally, you bring the old part with you everytime you can....just like my dad made me do when I used to go to the hardware/car parts store....before the internet....
Ideally, you bring the old part with you everytime you can....just like my dad made me do when I used to go to the hardware/car parts store....before the internet....
#19
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