Hi
If I change my ABS pump will it be possible to bleed the brakes myself
or will it have to go to a shop?
I was going to attempt a gravity bleed or a two man pump and bleed.

Thank you.

 

Just cause C1095 says the pump is bad...it probably isn't- likely the pins need re-soldered on the board if that's what you are facing. I suppose it could be manually bled without a vacuum assist tool, but looks like it has the potential to be a bitter ex-wife to do.


You can pull the ABS module without breaking any lines loose by undoing the nuts and rolling the whole assembly up, forward and inboard...gently bending brake lines as you go. It will all go back just as it was - take your time and don't kink any.

 

When I did the pin repair on mine I had to disconnect the lines because one of the little torx screws was so tight I needed a better purchase on it. I used the hole saw method of access for the repair.

You can either use a pressure bleeder or the two man approach for bleeding. I saw no indication that the lines had ever been flushed, so I used my pressure bleeder and replaced all the fluid.

 

I have been here and it is a difficult place to be! I replaced discs calipers flexible hydraulic hoses - and failed to bleed the brakes. I tried pressure and two man bleeding. No use. I gave the car to no less than two good local garages. No good - they both confirmed that my workmanship was immaculate - but still no/very poor brakes. I even dismantled the calipers and sent them back to the supplier for checking. THEN, I had a conversation with Bob Bates, he, along with running a garage, writes in the Jaguar Enthusiasts Club magazine. He said "There will be nothing wrong with any of your component parts - it is all to do with technique." He even wrote it up in the said JEC magazine earlier this year. Essentially, get two of you and do the usual thing whilst bleeding brakes, But - depress the brake pedal very slowly, wait a few seconds at the end of the pedal travel, AND ensure that the bleed tube coming from the bleed nipple is held VERTICALLY for at least six inches, before it is allowd to discharge into the catch bottle. Result - absolutely perfect brakes. No spoginess at all, and very effective stopping power!

 

Thanks to all for the help. Much appreciated.

 

I just performed this last night and flushed all of my fluid after a front rotor/pad change. BIG difference.

 

going to attempt an ABS module swap...just wondering if anybody broke or kinked their brake lines doing this...

 

I responded to your question on the XJ8 forum.

 

Hi there,

I just bought new rear brake shoes for my 1996 Jaguar xj300. I'm reading that I need to bleed the brakes too and then maybe even flush the system so this may not just be install new brake shoes. The rear pads are a bit low. The fronts were done by last owner. I've flushed a brake system before on a 1960s Land Rover but thats it. Should I use a pressure bleeder and start at the rear right wheel then RLW then FRW then FLW? Is there any trick to not end up with spongy brakes here? I have a online manual but it isnt that good at explaining these proceedures. I tried to download one but not sure what aplication to use. Are there any instructions on Flushing/ bleeding and maybe even pad replacement?