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Hi, new to Jaguar Forums and fairly new to my 1997 XJ6L. I've been driving it for 8 months and have been very happy. It came to me in very good, well maintained condition, although I had been sitting for 8 years.
I do not have any manuals and admit I am working on a low budget.
My first issue began a couple weeks ago. The car overheated somewhat. I found water in the power steering reservoir. This has caused the power steering to NOT work. I never saw a water cooled power steering and am at a loss. Don't know what to inspect or how to repair.
As of yesterday, the car refuses to start. It is in my driveway. It turns over well and ran great the day before.
I checked the obvious, found the front two spark plugs to be slightly oil fouled. I cleaned them but that did not help.
I then checked the fuel line. No fuel being pumped to the injector manifold. I suspect a bad fuel pump. I think that requires removing the gas tank.
Before I do that, I think I should check all fuses and relays involved in the fuel pump. It is here that I ask for advive. I have no map for my fuses or relays and don't know where or which ones to inspect or change.
Can anyone offer help? Am on following a logical trouble shoot?
I am wide open to suggestions.
I'd really like to continue driving this vehicle and prefer not to do unnecessary work!
Thanks in advance for any suggestions or advice.
Welcome to the Jaguar Forums! It's great to have you with us.
I have moved your post from the forum for the X308 to the forum for the X300, which is the Jaguar factory project code for your 1997 XJ6L. Here you will find knowledgeable owners of similar cars.
First of all, here are some links to service documentation you will need to repair and maintain your Jaguar:
The Electrical Guide contains the electrical schematics that show all the relays and fuses in the fuel pump circuit. You will have to refer to multiple diagrams to follow the circuit backward from the pump. The first thing I would recommend is that you open the fuse box in the trunk, identify the fuel pump relay, and swap it with another nearby similar relay to see if the engine will start. If that doesn't work, test for battery voltage on the appropriate terminals of the relay socket per the Electrical Guide. If you have voltage, try jumping the control terminals with a paperclip bent into a U with tape wrapped around the middle as insulation. If the fuel pump runs, the problem is in the electrical circuit. If the fuel pump does not run, the problem is the pump or the wiring between the relay and the pump. That will help you narrow down the problem.
Regarding water in the power steering reservoir, that is one I haven't heard before. Are you certain it was the PS reservoir and not the coolant reservoir/header tank? Perhaps the previous owner thought he was topping up the coolant (due to the overheating) but poured it into the PS reservoir by mistake?
The fuel pump only stays on for 3-5 seconds as you go the the key on position then turns back off . As the ECU sees engine rotation will it command the pump to turn back on for the duration of the drive . This can throw you off in troubleshooting . You can faintly hear this from the cabin in the starting cycle . If not you can place you finger on the #1 fuel pump relay ( 2nd from far right in trunk relay / fuse box ) and feel for the 2 clicks on and off for the first 3-5 seconds and should hear the pump run better from that position . As you get engine rotation after a point you should get the 3rd click back on with pump sound . You can swap the Auxiliary relay ( 2nd from far left ) with the pump relay . My pump was intermittent until resolved so that can throw you off.
With the water in the power steering you can drain and flush out a couple of times .
Fuse and relay location here : page 19 relay # 5 and page 22 fuse # 7 see fuse map
Last edited by Lady Penelope; 08-05-2017 at 01:22 PM.
Just for clarity, the fuse box pictured in your post is not the one with the fuel pump relay. The fuel pump relay is Relay 1 in the larger Electrical Carrier fusebox, which is at the right rear corner of the trunk. Here's the illustration from jaguarclassicparts.com:
I think the type pictured in your post is used in the right and left heelboards and right and left inner fender locations.
Yes , I didn't notice that . I was more focused on the fuse numbering with respect to the terminal post . It's raining very heavy here to go and check on her .
Thanks , Parker
Last edited by Lady Penelope; 08-05-2017 at 08:52 PM.
Hi Folks, took a few photos this morning to help clarify what I have.
Trunk and under hood (bonnet) relays and fuses are shown.
I can also shoot photos on the interior area but for now I think this should work.
I am leaning strongly at replacing fuel pump. Heard a whinning sound from rear of car when last being driven.
Are there sny surprises to look for in moving fuel tank for top access?
Before I start this, I'd like to swap relays and check appropriat fuses. I think I located the 30 amp fuse in the trunk area and it is fine.
Please note: There are no fuses or relays on the rear trunk wall forward of the battery.
Are there differences, since this is a 1997 XJ6L?
Now I see the picture ( fun pun intended ) The relay is the second from the right part # Jaguar DAC 7686 ( mine is blue color Spain brand Hella ) and the fuse is the green 30 amp one in position # 7 from the terminal post . If you want to direct hot wire the power lead to the pump it is the forward most socket ( Red/Yellow wire as the relay tray lifts up ) under the relay it's self as you remove it . You can use a common blade / clip terminal on a jumper wire to the forward positive post on the battery ( clip to get you down the road ) . It is high current so hook up the relay socket first then the battery second so the arcing will not be in the socket . Your pic shows the Accessory relay not installed ( option ) but you can use the far left one ( rear window heat ) as a troubleshooting swapout . Mine has the same markings as the fuel DAC 7686 . The supercharged AJ16 and the V12 version has a second fuse in the box and relay fwd of the battery for a 2nd fuel pump commanded on by the ECU above a certain RPM . Relays have more then one mode of failure and the swapped out one may not be any better so before going for the fuel pump I would recommend buying another new relay for troubleshooting ( a spare doesn't hurt either in service ) . There is a control side other then power side of the fuel pump circuit that has some weak spots that can be looked at before replacing the pump . I've tossed that salad .
Editing
Thanks / Parker
Last edited by Lady Penelope; 08-06-2017 at 12:10 PM.
There is a cooler for the power steering fluid integrated into the radiator, through the right side tank. Possible one of the lines inside the tank is cracked allowing coolant to enter the power steering system.
I would do a few drain and refills of the PS system to get some clean fluid in there. If the water returns I would suspect the problem is in the radiator. If it doesn't I would assume what Don B pointed out about it may have been filled up with water on accident.
While folks will point you to the right fuse and relay governing the fuel pump, I notice that your battery is rather small for the X300, and may not be strong enough to start the engine as the battery weakens. Also, fuel might fail to reach the engine due to other factors: fuel hose fallen off inside the tank, fuel filter choked, fuel rails blocked, fuel leak, fuel pressure regulator dead... Also, the fuel pump and starter also receive signals from the Body Processing Module (BPM) to work properly, and a failing BPM may cause problems.
An A8 battery is recommended and the pump relay control signal comes from the engine ECU and crash/inertia switch ( look for corrosion on the 2 ECU connectors ) and through the RS3 connector
Last edited by Lady Penelope; 08-06-2017 at 12:34 PM.
Thanks for the replies.
I strongly suspect the fuel pump is my problem but I have been wrong before.
I started to do some dis-assembly but am stopping due to lack of proper knowledge.
All carpet panels in boot have been removed, sending wires for fuel gague disconnected, and fuel tank straps have been un-bolted. I see I must disconnect the filler line (at gas cap?) and the outlet line from the pump connection. Not sure how to do this and don't want to do damage. Maybe someone could point me out the correct way to proceed.
Sorry for wanting to do this in a few measured steps but I do wish to do the the best way. I'm not sure what I have to do to gain access to the top of the fuel tank. Hope it's not too difficult!
Previous owner supplied this New battery. I will replace with better in time or use the one from my Porsche if in a jam. I do own a decent charger.
I would prefer changing the fuel pump before looking into ECU connectors. I realize it's cheaper to go that route but I feel more comfortable going with a new fuel pump first.
Fuel pumps are like tennis shoes , they don't last forever . See reply to your post on the " What did I do " thread . You can do the fuel pump without removing the tank in some threads I've seen . There is a " Andy Bracket " that you can easily install and bias your engine timing 5 degrees to get more snap out of it
Last edited by Lady Penelope; 08-06-2017 at 01:13 PM.
I'm making progress but it's not easy. I've got the fuel tank loose, including the connection at the filler door. Wires and lines are also diconnected. Trying to get the fuel tank far enough out to access the fuel pump. The problem seems to be that the filler tube is hitting the trunk hinge. I see no easy way around this and am wondering if I can remove this hinge???
I do't like the idea of doing that but see no other option. I am concerened that I get it all back properly also. Never though a fuel pump would be so difficult to service. Anyone have suggestions??
Not sure I really understand your issue. The hinge is easy to remove/replace but I have removed the fuel tank and I don't remember the hinges being a problem.
Have you removed the fuel lines on the underside of the tank? That's the bit that catches most people.
May be have a look at aholbro1 excellent thread on replacing the pump - it may help.
Progress, by unhooking the left hinge strut ball jount from the trunk hinge, the tank freely moves enough to access the fuel pump at the top of the tank. Got too dark out to continue, I keep everone informed and maybe post a few photos. I think my 1997 may be a bit different than other years but not certain. Do know it was more than I expected for a simple pump replacement. Now to order the new pump! It's about time I started learning this car.mMy Porsche has been a great learning experience and it's been running great for years.
Thanks for all the help.
Last edited by panhead64flh; 08-06-2017 at 07:59 PM.
While it is possible to replace the fuel pump without disconnecting the fuel lines, it is very tricky. Not so much getting the old pump out, but getting the new pump in with its rubber support mount properly clipped to the bracket and the inlet port/strainer of the pump properly oriented in the surge pot. And while you're fiddling to accomplish that, with one hand partially down through the top and one hand in through the fuel level sender hole with something like a long screwdriver or prybar to clip the pump mount onto the bracket, it's easy to stress the fuel lines and damage one or both, which will ruin your day.
If you'll make a special tool out of PVC pipe as invented by aholbro1 (see the link Brendan posted), disconnecting the fuel lines isn't too difficult and it's a lot less risky.
Jim, While it is possible to replace the fuel pump without disconnecting the fuel lines, it is very tricky..... Don
I had a very painful story removing my fuel tank......there were multiple errors even though it was done by an experience mechanic - search my posts and you'll understand. Hence, I do not recommend people tackling the fuel tank unless they are absolutely sure that the fuel pump is THE culprit.
Long story short, there are two fuel pipes at the bottom of the fuel tank which you must take out of the way before removing the fuel tank. Trying to keep the fuel tank inside the trunk while changing the fuel pump from the top would be extremely difficult, and you might break the fuel pipes at the bottom of the tank - this is no fun when you have a fuel leak and the pipes are hyper-expensive to replace.... or you may inadvertently and unknowingly break the cabin-to-trunk harness and deepen the mystery of your no-start issue.
Could someone tell me exactly what the procedure is to disconnect the lines on the bottom of the fuel tank. I will pump the fuel out of the tank first. Also, what do I need to know to reconnect. Is it done from under the vehicle?
08-05-2017, 09:41 AM
1997 XJ6L Advice Request
