My air conditioning only blows warm air, the AC compresor kicks on
I can adjust air flow (i.e. floor, dash, defrost), the temp display changes, but nothing really happens.
Figured out how to go into AC diagnostic mode and it throws
23,24,45 codes
Any further advice would be appreciated, thanks

 

Probably a low charge scenario with code 23. The other codes are for air distribution only.

If the compressor kicks on, there is probably some pressure left and you would be able to charge it up. But you need to use a gauge set to see just how much pressure is in it, and to make sure you don't overcharge. Spend some time getting familiar with the procedures and you can do it.

Of course there may be a leak in the system somewhere, like the 2 ball valves used for the gauge set. Make sure those caps are good. If there is a leak, you might have cool air for a year or more, or only for a few days!

There's always the option to let a professional handle it. There is a lot to know and be wary of, when servicing a/c.

 

Here is a great source of info originally posted here by N_sweeney not long ago:

http://www.ariazone.com/manuals/Auto...g%20Manual.pdf

 

thank you, getting gauges this week and try to get a better idea and see where I get.

 

ok so I put a gauge set on there and found that the high side had about 150psi and 0-10inHg on the low. THis is with the compressor running of course. I feel that this indicates a blockage of some type??
Thoughts?

 

Here is the extract from JTIS on 'No Cooling' for the X300:

14.10.3 System Symptoms
There are five basic symptoms associated with air conditioning fault diagnosis. The following conditions are not in order of priority.

1. No Cooling
a) Is the electrical circuit to the compressor clutch functional?
b) Is the electrical circuit to the blower motor(s) functional?
c) Slack or broken compressor drive belt.
d) Compressor partially or completely seized.
e) Compressor shaft seal leak.
f) Compressor valve or piston damage (may be indicated by small variation between HIGH & LOW side pressures relative to engine speed).
g) Broken refrigerant pipe (causing total loss of refrigerant).
h) Leak in system (causing total loss of refrigerant) - possible code 23.
i) Blocked filter in the receiver drier.
j) Evaporator sensor disconnected - possible code 13.
k) Pressure switch faulty - possible code 23.

The other four sections are:
2. Insufficient Cooling
3. Intermittent Cooling
4. Noisy System
5. Insufficient Heating

I haven't included details for these four as they don't appear to be relevant to your current issue.

Graham

 

225 hi 40 low would be about right IIRC....150 and 10 would indicate low charge IMO.

 

Right after I bought my car nine years ago I had a simular problem. The problem turned out to be the dryer canister internal seal had broken and allowed all the dryer pellets to circulate through out the system. The tech tried to clear the system by disconnecting at the firewall on the engine side and blowing out the system after replacing the dryer canister (standard GM unit fits fine). This worked somewhat. I finally had the system discharged and took the car home and completely disconnected all parts of the system in the engine compartment. After blowing out everything I could and getting a few more pellets I put it all back together and had it sucked down and recharged. Has worked fine ever since. I have the pressure checked about every two years and some coolant added as needed.

 

Are the cooling fans always running? I'm having a similar issue, codes 23 and 24, and my AC is only working well as it should when the cooling fans are running, but they aren't running continuously as they should.

 

Your result here depends on the ambient temperature, and the engine speed. You probably do not have a blockage, only a low charge.

My VDP was not cooling well, so a few nights ago I charged it up from about 10psi low/140psi high, to 15psi low/170psi high at 80F and engine speed at 1100rpm.

170 psi high is mid-scale for 80F. It took in about 8oz R-134a. The compressor began cycling on and off. The a/c is much colder now.

The temp chart shows a high-side range of about 200-260psi at 100F, so the ambient really matters. As does the engine speed, i.e. as engine speed increases, low-side goes lower and high-side goes higher. Usually charging is done somewhat above idle, I choose 1100 rpm with success.

I had a serious issue upon disconnecting the high-side charging valve, when the ball valve did not seal and refrigerant came shooting up out of the port! Within a few seconds I got the charging valve back on, amidst a cloud of choking 134. The closed charging valve stopped the leak and will stay on the port for now! It lost some pressure so I reconnected and added about 2 more oz to get back to 170psi high-side. Wow!

Moral of that story is, WEAR GLOVES AND EYE PROTECTION!

Don't forget to bleed the lines before you add refrigerant, so you don't get air into the system. That will kill its effectiveness.

 

The cooling fans are supposed to run all the time. Jaguar made an electrical wiring change by means of a plug in jumper in the system to have them run any time the car is running. You can see the jumper on the right rear area of the engine compartment near the top. This was after many failures ot the fans due to turning on and off too much.

 

I pulled my complete dash out to get the TX valve replaced on my XJR very expensive repair

Find out if any of the air con guys in your neighbourhood have used and of the total seal products from Cliplight

Recently I was fixing my nephews old car he had no money and his car air did not work I thought Ill try the clip-light total seal a lot of the older guys said I was crazy on a old car air con not worth spending the money on tried this product air con is still working
can cost $150AU

 

Gone for work training for a week. Will investigate further when I get back to town.
Thanks again for all the advice.