Thanks to aholbro1 I quit screwing around, pulled the module, drilled a 1" hole over the pins, scraped off the insulation and soldered the pins. I used 2% silver solder with a touch of flux, which I then cleaned using wet qtips.
I still need to bleed the brakes and epoxy the plug in place, but at least the aggravation of trying to locate the problem without proper diagnostics is over.

The ABS module can be removed without disturbing the hydraulic section.
Bending the lines without kinking is the way I have always done this.

They will bend back into place.

bob gauff

bob, is that by removing the three torx screws at the top? Mine had thick white paint daubed in them so I removed the lines.

RJ, Most humbled but you mean thanks to Bob! He posted the "how-to" - all I did was add my experience of needing two tries at the soldering to get it right! Scared me when he told me to just bend the brake lines, too....but it really wasn't bad at all - and they go right back in place!

BTW, have you driven it out past where the light normally illuminates yet? I couldn't be sure I had a real fix until I got past my neighbor's house without a light....

aholbro1, it was you telling how the alarm came on after about a hundred yards that made the decision. I had already repaired the XK8 module and knew how to do that. I'm still not sure how motorcarman separates the module from the hydraulics and doesn't have to disconnect the lines. I just took the whole thing out and then removed the two screws on the bottom.
Anyway, I drove the car a couple of miles yesterday and no light, so it's fixed.

Well I've got the C1095 on my 1997 XJ6L so I guess I will repair mine also.
I didn't pay much for it so I will be fixing this-and-that for a while.
Not a bad running car for 192000 miles.

bob gauff

Bob, you've got a repaired module laying around the shop somewhere! Or does your 97 have trac-cntrl, too? Pretty sure the one I thought I may need to buy from you after my first solder attempt was ABS-only.

I gotta get down there one of these days and see that one.

Loosen these two hex nuts on the front, and an identical one on the back, and you can lift the entire module-pump assembly out:



Here are a couple of shots of my brake lines after I "bent" them to roll the pump module up, forward, and inboard to remove the ABS control module, then put it all back together after mending it. If they were permanently deformed, I can't tell it:

So what you did is move it far enough to get at the two torx screws securing the module to the casting. I didn't think that was possible. I still have to plug the hole so I'll do it that way. Disconnecting the hydraulic lines is not a big deal, but this looks like a better choice.

When you get paid a set amount to repair a component, eliminating a step (like bleeding brakes) is saving time (making more money).

I dislike bleeding brakes anyway so saving this step is better for the painted surfaces that need to be cleaned IMMEDIATELY!!!!!

Car owners can take all the time they want but repair shops need to be quick and efficient. People want their cars back ASAP from the mechanic!!!!

Zane, I remember that module I had repaired so I will swap that one and repair the faulty one.
I'll look for it in my 'STACK-O-MODULES'.

bob gauff

I don't like bleeding brakes, either. Nor do I want to spend any more time than necessary on a repair, even if I am not a professional. I was just asking which screws you removed to separate the module from the hydraulics. I'm sorry I wasted your time, motorcarman.

No problem.
I sometimes waste my time here.
I sometimes learn something.

bob gauff