I know there is a lot on here about failed ABS modules but is there any way of reading ABS fault codes without taking my Jag XJR to a Jag specialist? Unfortunately my code reader will only read the engine and gearbox faults.

 

No, unfortunately. Does the light come on as soon as you start the engine, or after you move a short distance? My XJ6 displayed the code only after moving, so I checked the sensors and cables and did not find a problem. Knowing the solder joint to the abs pump was a common cause, I drilled a hole in the case opposite the pins with a 1" hole saw ( no guide drill), cleansed the pins and soldered them. That was it.

 

I'm very new to my car...as in less than 24 hours, but I can say that my ABS/Trac lights were caused by a low-charge battery. Even after putting a new battery in, it took about an hour of driving for them to turn off.
I ran them by my new indy mechanic and he confirmed all was well.

 

Hi, it comes on after you get to about 15mph and resets each time you turn off the ignition. I have also noticed though that my battery voltage gauge is sitting slightly lower, it's just about 13v whereas normally it's around 14v so not sure if this could be connected as I remember having random faults from a dodgy battery on my sovereign when I had it but not with the ABS

 

Having a good battery is the most important item for the Jags. I'm not sure what the options are in England, but here we can stop at a local auto parts store and have the battery load tested.

 

This is what I'm thinking the battery fitted by a previous owner looks to small as well so I shall chuck a new one in there anyway and see what that does

 

The new battery probably will not get rid of the abs light, it's too easy. But a good move, especially if it's undersize. Good luck.

 

I have this issue. I just got this car 97 xjr6. But i used to own / rebuild rovers. Here's where I'm at:

I dont have a scan tool set up for this car yet. So going on intuition...
Abs trac fail lights come on after self test and car start
Pulling both L & R 30a and 5a abs fuses. Lights are out on self test.
Drive car 10ft lights come on.
Started to pull wheel sensors... seized
Tried to do resistance test at sensor connection. No way to get probe in without damaging insulation
In my experience with rovers the abs pump should come on to pressurize the system when key goes to on. This car does not. Is it supposed to?
Since it does not... I assumed the power connection on the controller was the fault. Removed the computer. Not fun... one of the torx heads is stripped a bit so a real arm bruiser to get to and loosen
Drilled holes over solder pins and checked continuity. Seemed ok. Put back in car. Not happy i opened the case for no reason.
Put in car. all was reset as i removed neg terminal while handeling computer connections.
Turn on car lights come on right after self test now. Great Ive made it worse.
Pull controller again. Check continuity using a clip to connector pin so as not to put pressure and force any connections to make contact....none across pin to resistor or board on other. resoldered. Had to make a jumper. one of the paths got damaged from the bit poking in. Checked continuity. All ok. Put in. Pulled fuses. No change more damaged in the controller? dont know.

 

good news.... i saw where someone posted re: the wires on the traction system in front of the abs module. Thought maybe removing that to get to the module upset something and that was the change in the pattern. Checked the wires. They have no insulation. I mean none. They are green colored wires. I guess the insulation that used to be there was green. I will rewire and post results

 

Welcome to the forum swachka. It looks like you at least have a plan. It takes a fair amount of heat to repair the solder connection to the pump. I ended up using a touch of paste flux and silver solder, then had to carefully remove the flux residue.
When you have time, please visit the new member area and introduce yourself and your car:
New Member Area - Intro a MUST - Jaguar Forums - Jaguar Enthusiasts Forum

 

Thanks will do. Repair completed. test drive successful. no more error lights.

 

were you able to document and take pictures on the repair?

 

i did not only because i was repeating anothers findings on this forum. However I cannot find that post on here now. There is a part of the braking system foreward of the abs block and control module pack. The one with the cable running thru it. Aparrently the manufacturers choice of insulation for the wires was a poor one. It easily cracks or in my case disintegrates. In my case it was the power leads to the motor under the cable assembly. They were raw wire and all the insulation had crystalized and fallen onto the body paneling beneath. I had to separate the motor from the cable gearing. which went somewhat like this:

1. check the wires going to the motor. mine were bad. disconnect from harness. 2 connectors.
2. separate the cable control assemblys support from the abs valve block and computer assembly at the bracket. Two nuts connect to the bracket. one bolt to the wheel well.
3. separate the cable control module from its bracket
4. remove the plastic cover so you can see into the cable control mechanism
5. disconnect the cables from their wheels. tape mark them if you need so you remem which goes where.
6. i think at this point you can remove the module and go inside
7. my motor leads were aweful. not a useable inch. i first thought id open the motor housing as it has little tabs that look like you can just bend them. I used a hammer and a punch. Not a good direction. Case material is very hard.
8. cut the wires 2in from motor housing and 2in from connector. make notes to polarity of wires to connector.
9. carefully twist the wires on the housing and connector so they are nice and clean and test fit for the smallest heatshrink you can fit. on the motor side it needs to be able to slide over the wire and into the plastic bushing on the motor case. cut to length so that it goes inside the motor. remove all heat shrink and set aside
10. cut two new wires of similar length and gauge to match what the harness length used to be plus a tad more... 2in to be safe
11. you need a HOT iron. this type of wire does not like solder. Pre-tin all ends
12. slide heat shrink over pre-tinned wires of motor housing and into motor bushing. Carefully. you are flexing the motor brushes. and cut and slip on new heat shrink over the new wire leads your going to attach far enough back so they dont shrink while youre working
13. solder the new wire to the motor wires. it should shrink the motor wire heat shrink while youre working. now slide down the heat shrink you put on the new wire to cover the joint and shrink with a lighter.
14. do the same thing to the connector side
15. for added security of the work i carefully bent the new harness alongside th motor case and elec taped it by wrapping around the motor for 2in. You cant wrap it all the way up as the wires need to bend away about half way up the motor so it fits back into the bracketry.
16. reinstall... test car

 

not sure how to edit my post....
6. you have to undo a couple of torx bolts to leave the cables and their housing in the car and you can take the motor the gearing and the cable wheels as a unit inside.
11. when pretinning the motor and connector keep t clean and tight so you dont have to battle the heatshrink over your work

 

I'm having the same problem with mine, I'll have to check on that when I get back out to my car

 

Just in case any one wondered I seem to have cured mine, done over 1000 miles + since I simply nipped up to bolt that holds the connector onto the abs module, it seemed extremely loose and had perhaps backed off over the years? I did also a few weeks later fit a decent sized battery as well though just as a precaution as winter will be coming soon too!