So, I want to flush out/renew the brake fluid on my x300 and wondered how much fluid will I need. I believe the start position is the left rear wheel (RHD) and work around the car, going to the right rear wheel, then front left and finally front right (drivers side) wheel. Will there be a discernible change in fluid colour as the old fluid is expelled and the new replacement fluid appears? I'm familiar with normal bleeding, expelling air etc. but this will be my first complete fluid replacement. Any recommendations for the best fluid to use? I intend to replace the brake pads all round as well, so any recommendations there also?

Many thanks.

 

You have the basics down pat.

I generally syringe the old out of the reservoir, give a quick wipe out, fill with fresh fluid, and go for it exactly as you describe.

Takes about 500ml of fluid. I buy it by the carton, toooooo many Jags, so I have plenty at any time, so never really take much note of usage, but I do not remember using more than 1 bottle per annual flush.

I use Dot3 usually, and brands mean squat.

Pads are purely a matter of choice. I currently run RDA Semi Metallic on 3 of them, and no issues, and not much dust.

My driving now never calls for silly brake specs, as in the XJ-S has done 60000kms on the current pads which are about 50% worn, the maths I will leave for those smarter than me.

The X300 has done 40000kms, and I measured about <2mm wear (new ones on the shelf just because) when I last had them out for wheel bearing replacement, so quite a way to go till worry sets in.

 

I'm a lazy brake home mechanic and the real mechanics will probably tell me off for this - I don't pull the calipers apart when I do brakes, but I pull the caliper off (because I usually put on new rotors), remove old pads, lever pistons back in without dismantling and cleaning, then put the new (thicker) pads in, then re-assemble. Be careful of dangling the weight of the caliper on the brake hose - I usually have the pads all unwrapped ready to go, and rest the heavy caliper on something - either the road wheel, or a block of wood etc.
You need something strong but non-metallic for levering the pistons in, so I find the flat wooden handle of a wire brush useful for this (doesn't scratch or chip rotors as a screwdriver might). This process will flush old fluid back towards the reservoir, so watch the level and maybe remove it to prevent it overflowing. It is good to empty the reservoir as much as you can before flushing, as it saves you wasting time pumping old stuff out of reservoir.
Once pads done, replace the brake fluid. I'd recommend spending a bit more and buying racing brake fluid as it is has a higher boiling point so is harder to overheat, if you drive hard. If it is a different or lighter colour, it makes it fairly easy to judge when it's flushed right through to the business end.
It is good to use two people for bleeding the brakes (one on the pedal, one on the bleed valve) but I use a little bottle thingy with a rubber hose which acts as a one-way valve for bleeding.

a grubby job - good luck!

 

On one of the car repair shows, I saw that they used copper grease on the backs of the pads. I'ma but nervous about using that, but have a spray on kit that puts an layer of "anti-squeal" that doesn't seam to last long.

Any thoughts about the copper grease on the backs of the pads, or a swipe around the face of the caliper piston face? My x300's brakes do make a squeal when coming near a stop. There's plenty of pad there.

 

I don't know why, but the factory manual gives a completely different bleeding rotation than any other car I have owned. For right hand drive, it's FL, FR, LR, RR. I had some super blue on hand so I used that; the color change is convenient. Even with emptying the reservoir first, it took over a liter.

 

To all of the above, thanks for the responses. I have changed pads in the past and not worried about any of that, just wanted recommendations on actual brands. Excessively warm weather isn't really an issue here in Ireland! But as to the order re; flushing/bleeding, my understading, based on anything I've read on the subject was always, start with the caliper furthest away from the reservoir and continue likewise. Guess I'll stick with what has always worked for me in the past!

Thanks again.

 

I think that should be good, but what I sent was from the factory manual. I did it that way.

 

Me too.

Emptying the reservoir means that much less old fluid to push thru the pipes





I'm well over 100,000 miles on my Akebono pads.

But I do SO much highway driving that any comparison to others with a more normal city/highway mix are not valid.

Cheers
DD

 

I've used copper grease and high temp wheel bearing grease. No worries with either. Use a fairly small amount. You don't want to make a mess of things.

I've also used various over-the-counter anti-noise products. They all seemed to work to one degree or the other.

Many pads have a backing plate with a anti-noise compound already applied....or come with a thin shim with a compound applied. Personally, I don't apply anything petroleum based in those cases as I'm afraid it might attack the already-applied compund.

Cheers
DD

 

Akebono !




I do the same....start with wheel farthest away unless a manual specifically says otherwise.

In thinking about it, though, I'm not really sure if it matters in this case. You're doing a flush, not a bleed. That is, you're not trying to remove any trapped air. But, that's a totally academic thought. There's certainly no advantage or increased convenience to altering the sequence.

Cheers
DD

 

I generally pump in about a gallon or so if the vehicle has never had a brake flush just to get rid of any contaminants. Once you pressure bleed and clear fluid is coming out of the caliper you know its pretty good.

 

I recently had to replace the ABS unit so took the oportunity to replace the rubber hoses with braded items. I ended up letting the master cylinder empty which was a mistake. I think I might still have some air somewhere as the brakes still feel soft although they perform well enough. I do the odd trackday and found a massive improvement in fade resistance by using 'Yellowstuff' pads, nitrac grooved dics and DOT 5.1 (do not use DOT 5) fluid. No noise or squeel on the road using the stick on shims where supplied and copper grease where no shims are provided.