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My 1995 XJ6 was running ok. One morning I started it up and left it idling for a couple of minutes, then the engine sputtered and I was unable to start it up again. The starter is fine but engine cannot fire up. I checked a couple of spark plugs and found oil in the holes where the plugs go. (see photo)
My guess is that this is the cause…age / gaskets worn out? Not sure where to go next? expensive repair job on the horizon?
Pull the plugs and let the oil drain into the cylinder , wipe before replacing plugs , it will smoke on startup
On the staring sequence the fuel pump will come on for 3 seconds only then off
Fuel pressure will be trapped in the fuel lines
When the crankshaft position sensor sees engine rotation the fuel pump will come on again for the duration of your drive
So you will feel 3 clicks of the fuel pump relay
The CKPS goes through the engine ECU to provide a ground to close the fuel pump relay
To power the ECU the right engine bay fuse box relay in the corner # 9 called ignition positive relay must click closed controled by the ignition switch
There is a 2nd power to the ECU and fuel injectors as the large right # 5 called the ECU control Relay , this 2nd power is needed at all times
Swapping options
You can swap the right engine bay relay for the left as this one only runs the car horn
Large right # 5 relay for a headlight or AC clutch as long as they have the same 7606 part #
The large relays unclip from the bracket and turn upside down and spray with penitrating oil to free up a stuck waterproofing O - ring in the socket / relay split
Once you get the engine running again the valve cover replacement gasket and coil well O - rings come in different qualities
Others can advice a good source as I never hade to replace mine on M ' Lady Penelope
On your back 2 coil connectors they can be mixed so mark the aft most coil wire
There is a tourqe pattern and a precaution on valve cover replacement in a TSB
Its entirely possible that oil has submerged enough of the coil on plugs that starting the engine is no longer feasible. Draining this oil is required, which would be done by removing each spark plug. You may as well be prepared to replace the camcover gasket, all six spark plug gaskets and the 13 camcover screw gaskets. The work is easy and you can do this in about an hour, start to finish. No matter what the problem is, this will need to be done, so you may as well start here.
You will need a torx-27 bit to remove the screws.
I also recommend having a torque wrench on hand. While not absolutely necessary, it'll assure an accurate. Harbor Freight, or eBay if you don't have one. If you want to bypass this route, I would be prepared to use a powerdrill, with the torx head set to a low torgue setting on the drill. That will at least provide a consistent torque across all 13 screws.
I strongly suggest you pay extra for the OEM camcover gasket from a dealer. All aftermarkets are a bit too long and make for a much more frustrating experience.
The spark plug well gaskets can be aftermarket.
The 13 screw gaskets are best purchsed aftermarket, as 13 of anything gets to be quite expensive. RockAuto has them priced right. They will also have the spark plug gaskets, but I would not buy the camcover gasket, only OEM for me from now on.
You know what? I'd replace the spark plugs at this time! Why the hell not? You have to remove them to drain the oil anyways, right? Champion RC12YC or NGK BKR5E is preferred. They are cheap, so just do it.
The work is pretty simple.
1. detatch the camcover breather hose.
2. remove the COP cover and unplug all six COPs. (easier to unplug them while they are still bolted on.) Using a 10mm (or 8mm?) socket, remove all twelve bolts, and pull out all of the coils. Some people like to number them and put them back in the same order, but it doesn't matter.
3. Using a small screwdriver, open up the plastic wire holder holding the wires to the camcover.
4. Now unscrew the 13 torx screws holding the camcover in place. They are all the same. They all have a metal washer and a rubber boot/gasket that may or may not come out with the screw. You can pop those out later after you've removed the camcover.
5. Once off, you can now remove the camcover. Make sure all 13 screw gaskets are accounted for. Then make sure all six spark plug gaskets are accounted for, then remove the old camcover gasket.
6. You can easily replace all spark plugs if you want now. They'll all be as exposed as you'll ever see! Torque them to 16.2 - 20.6 lb ft (22-28 Nm), gapped at 0.035". You can apply small dab of anti-seize to the threads, and I would recommend some dilectric grease around the bottom of the ceramic part. That helps the coil on plug boots make a good seal.
7. Install the new camcover gasket, and the six plug gaskets and set it back on. Once set back on, place the washers and boots on each of the 13 screws and have fun lining them back on so that they all line up!
8. Tighten screws to 5 lb. ft. (6.5 Nm). For tightening procedure, see here: http://jagrepair.com/images/TSB/TSB2...il%20Leaks.pdf
9. Now you can reinstall the wire for the coils, locking them in place, then coils, then the cover! You are done!
I finally replaced the cam cover gaskets, cleaned off the oil, changed plugs and coils, but car still didn’t start. I noticed some oil on the old plugs (electrodes) I also checked to see that the iginition system was not even generating a spark so now I’m trying to figure out what is wrong with the ignition? I also noticed these 2 connectors not plugged in. Not sure if this is the problem? These wires are on on the right side of the engine bay near the rear
In front of the brake electronic module on a left hand drive model ( so this module will be on the right side of car ) there is an optional traction control actuator not on all examples
The actuator is a vertical cylinder with 2 connectors but not sure your pic is them ( one of the cylinder connectors is for 2 wires that go into the very bottom of the cylinder so hard to see )
There are 2 freon pressure switches also in that area , one with 2 wires and one with 4 wires
The 2 wire freon connector is subject of a Mod for a TSB that may be done wrong but wouldn't effect engine regulation
If the starting voltage sag gets below a certain point the starter will spin the engine just fine but not have the needed voltage for the ECU to funtion properly
How are you seeing no spark ?
Do you show 300 RPM during starting on the tach gauge ?
Last edited by Parker 7; Apr 17, 2023 at 12:01 AM.
If you did have a traction control actuator the throttle cable comes from your pedal to the top of the traction control cylender on your left hand steering model right side , then a second throttle cable goes from the actuator back over to the throttle body butterfly on the car's left side
There have been issues with a intact Traction Control system effecting idle and if the actuator was removed or modded ........................
sometimes the 2 wires just as they enter the very bottom of the actuator have missing wire insulation and the 2 wires short out
Last edited by Parker 7; Apr 18, 2023 at 08:39 PM.
Car / engine suddenly quit after short idle
