Centreing Steering Wheel / Steering Rack
#1
Centreing Steering Wheel / Steering Rack
1995 X300 4.0NA - ZF Steering Rack.
Dear all yet another issue. I have replaced both inner and outer tie rod ends with ones identical to what I removed.
I knew that I would have to have a full alignment done so basically put back the combined inner and outer rods as close to the existing lengths as possible. Both existing tie rods were very similar in length and adjustment..
On first drive noticed that I was not getting full steering rotations when turning left but got extra rotations turning right. (It might have been like this before I changed the tie rods but I just had not noticed) I had 1 full turn (360) of the steering wheel to the left and over 1 and 1/2 (480) turns to the right. Steering wheel was centred and tracking was true in straight line. All I could assume is that the steering rack was not centred when going straight ahead being too far to the right thus reducing left turns. I have now got the rack in the centre when travalling straight ahead by altering the lengths of the tie rod ends. I now have 1 and 1/6 turns (about 420) to the left and to the right - but of course my steering wheel is now well off centre.
I know that the steering wheel cannot be just centred so I am wondering whether I need to remove one of the column link connections - centre the steering wheel and then reconnect to the steering rack thus alligning the steering wheel, rack and wheel to true centre.
Is there an easy way to remove the link between the upper and middle steering column and simply rotate to align everything - or should this be done on the link at the steering rack ? If done on the upper/mid link how do you push the upper compresion link down to release the upper column section to rotate? - do you need to loosen the bottom link to the midle shaft joint as well ?
Appreciate any advice on how to now get the steering wheel centred when the rack is centred and the wheels are going straight ahead. Is there anything else that anyone can think of that might be casuing these errors.? I suspect that my rack is not the original but a replacement at some time ? (Or at least been out and re-installed as the stering fluid hoses are new(ish).
Cheers
PS I'll try to add some photos tomorrow of the links I am talking about.
Matt
Dear all yet another issue. I have replaced both inner and outer tie rod ends with ones identical to what I removed.
I knew that I would have to have a full alignment done so basically put back the combined inner and outer rods as close to the existing lengths as possible. Both existing tie rods were very similar in length and adjustment..
On first drive noticed that I was not getting full steering rotations when turning left but got extra rotations turning right. (It might have been like this before I changed the tie rods but I just had not noticed) I had 1 full turn (360) of the steering wheel to the left and over 1 and 1/2 (480) turns to the right. Steering wheel was centred and tracking was true in straight line. All I could assume is that the steering rack was not centred when going straight ahead being too far to the right thus reducing left turns. I have now got the rack in the centre when travalling straight ahead by altering the lengths of the tie rod ends. I now have 1 and 1/6 turns (about 420) to the left and to the right - but of course my steering wheel is now well off centre.
I know that the steering wheel cannot be just centred so I am wondering whether I need to remove one of the column link connections - centre the steering wheel and then reconnect to the steering rack thus alligning the steering wheel, rack and wheel to true centre.
Is there an easy way to remove the link between the upper and middle steering column and simply rotate to align everything - or should this be done on the link at the steering rack ? If done on the upper/mid link how do you push the upper compresion link down to release the upper column section to rotate? - do you need to loosen the bottom link to the midle shaft joint as well ?
Appreciate any advice on how to now get the steering wheel centred when the rack is centred and the wheels are going straight ahead. Is there anything else that anyone can think of that might be casuing these errors.? I suspect that my rack is not the original but a replacement at some time ? (Or at least been out and re-installed as the stering fluid hoses are new(ish).
Cheers
PS I'll try to add some photos tomorrow of the links I am talking about.
Matt
Last edited by Matto1965; 03-19-2022 at 05:03 AM.
#3
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someguywithajag (03-21-2022)
#4
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Hi Matt,
I've learned the hard way that rebuilt racks don't come re-centered like they should, so I try to remember to center them before installing them in the vehicle.
I may not understand what you've done so far, but there is a real risk of damaging the clock spring (Cancellation/Cassette Module) in your steering column. This is the mechanism that transmits electrical signals from your steering wheel switches to control the horn, airbag, radio, etc. while the steering wheel rotates. The clockspring has a rotational limit, beyond which it can be damaged.
The best solution would be to carefully turn your steering wheel to your best estimate of its original centered position and secure it in position. I use bungee cords strung between the steering wheel and driver's seat headrest rods. Then return your tie rod ends to the number of turns you counted when you removed the old ones, then disconnect the lower steering column from the steering rack and do your best to re-center the rack relative to the steering column. Once you have that as close as you can get it, you can either make minor adjustments in each tie rod end, or you can remove the steering wheel and adjust it on the upper steering column (it fits on the column with very fine splines). The only trick to removing the steering wheel is that you'll have to study how to disconnect and remove the airbag module. Once you have the airbag off, you can usually loosen, but not remove the steering wheel nut, then pull the steering wheel toward you to break it free. The nut keeps the wheel from slamming you in the chin when it breaks free. Worst case, you may need a steering wheel puller.
Cheers,
Don
I've learned the hard way that rebuilt racks don't come re-centered like they should, so I try to remember to center them before installing them in the vehicle.
I may not understand what you've done so far, but there is a real risk of damaging the clock spring (Cancellation/Cassette Module) in your steering column. This is the mechanism that transmits electrical signals from your steering wheel switches to control the horn, airbag, radio, etc. while the steering wheel rotates. The clockspring has a rotational limit, beyond which it can be damaged.
The best solution would be to carefully turn your steering wheel to your best estimate of its original centered position and secure it in position. I use bungee cords strung between the steering wheel and driver's seat headrest rods. Then return your tie rod ends to the number of turns you counted when you removed the old ones, then disconnect the lower steering column from the steering rack and do your best to re-center the rack relative to the steering column. Once you have that as close as you can get it, you can either make minor adjustments in each tie rod end, or you can remove the steering wheel and adjust it on the upper steering column (it fits on the column with very fine splines). The only trick to removing the steering wheel is that you'll have to study how to disconnect and remove the airbag module. Once you have the airbag off, you can usually loosen, but not remove the steering wheel nut, then pull the steering wheel toward you to break it free. The nut keeps the wheel from slamming you in the chin when it breaks free. Worst case, you may need a steering wheel puller.
Cheers,
Don
Last edited by Don B; 03-22-2022 at 09:28 AM.
#5
Hi Don B thanks for your reply. I have been careful to keep the steering wheel (actually clock spring) in its centred position. Don’t know much about the clock spring other than on my x300 it serves only the airbag and horn. I understand there is a ribbon inside the clock spring that can be damaged if turned to far either way. Advice seems to be to either leave centred which I have done or at worst rotate to left very gently until resistance is felt then 2 turns back to right. This way leaves enough turns to avoid damage both ways. Is this your understanding? I am centring the steering rack to the shaft to ensure that I have equal turns to lock both directions. Then I’ll have a professional alignment . Thanks again Matt
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