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I blew a radiator hose had it towed to the shop where the hose was replaced since it’s been having trouble starting I’ve called 2 mechanic to look at it and when they arrive it starts perfectly. Today a mechanic came twice it started for him he left. I tried, it wouldn’t. He came back it started. We hear the fuel pump. I ran the codes and have p0138 and p0158 with the engine off. Can anyone help
Last edited by Donald ThaDon Masson; Jan 17, 2022 at 09:18 PM.
Editing complete ....reread added info and ask questions
There are a series of relays you can swap so we will be referencing this Doc
You can double click the image to enlarge and print off at the office supply store from a flash drive
The fuel pump will only come on for 4 seconds only with key rotation and when the crankshaft position sensor sees engine rotation the relay will close for the duration of your drive , You can jumper this relay to directly power the pump at all times , this will drain the battery with the keys in your pocket so plan accordingly
This will be the fwd most socket to the rear most socket , this will be socket 3 to 5 or 30 to 87
Use a blade type connector like this the front counter at a auto parts store can help build up from a tool and parts kit they can dig through
The starter solenoid relay can be swapped with the headlights , fog , or A/C relay of the same part number stamped on it
The ECU gets its 1stpower from the right engine bay fuse box ( called the ignition positive relay ) it can be swapped with the left engine bay fuse box relay which only runs your horn
The ECU gets its 2nd power from the large ECU controlled relay that is controlled by the ECU and brings power back into it , same thing swap with a headlight or other
This 2nd power is needed at all times
The large relays can be stuck so unclip them and flip upside down and spray the mating seam with penetrating oil and a rag to grip them when pulling off the socket
Last edited by Parker 7; Jan 18, 2022 at 01:31 AM.
A common cause of intermittent cranking but not starting is the crankshaft position sensor. There is usually no fault code raised that directly relates to the sensor itself and they can go intermittently faulty before failing entirely. I have replaced 2 on a low mileage vehicle with genuine Jaguar parts and the first time it was very intermittent. If the tachometer needle moves when cranking then it is likely that the sensor is OK.
I’m going to replace the crankshaft position sensor, I got it to start and see what you mean by 300 rpm and it wasn’t doing that in the times it didn’t start it would just sit at zero thanks
The sensor should arrive today. I got another code p1193 turned up today. It has been sputtering and cuting off at red lights. Is that all crankshaft position sensor related?