Big issue.

Attempt to start car fails, due to low battery voltage :/ Lights on dash come on, but no "ding ding" when I turn key on ignition ... turn key twice in driver's door, no "click" from the other doors.

No click to open trunk using button on dash Mechanical key lock at rear of trunk lid does not work (probably due to years of weathering it's internal cylinders)

How to access trunk to get to battery? Back seat? Some way to "charge" battery without direct access to battery?

 

Open the hood and you will see a + batt. connection on either side at the fuse box bulkhead. Connect a battery charger or jumper cable set to ground and the + stud, then use the switch on the dash to open the trunk.

WARNING: Do not attempt to start the engine using this connection.

 

You'll find power and ground feeders at each heelboard fusebox in the rear seat footwell suitable for a trickle-charger.

 

Thanks! Your recommendation sounds like a sound solution. Thanks for you quick reply !!

I have both a plug into A/C charger that will charge at 2 amp or 6 amps and have a portable 4-in-1 charger contraption I got from Harbor Freight .

I will use the least intrusive first ...

 

Thanks for the response - great option I never thought of ... !

 

Well, I've used my Century battery charger, connected first to a + lead in the engine bay, then at the + lead in the right heelboard fuse panel under backseat - both times using the 6amp charge setting (vs 2amp), with no response with the trunk-open button on dash (this after an average 6 hour charge).

I've also tried my portable jump start tool with no success. Who knows, maybe the trunk release selonoid's fuse is blown; I'd check it, but in Jag's infinite wisdom, they placed that fuse and its relay in the trunk!

I think i might have found the reason why the battery is drained - found a video of a person with a battery drain prob and turns out the trunk courtesy light stayed lit - i'll bet that's why mine drained.

Anyway, since the "battery charger" workaround hasn't worked for me. I see where folks have opened the trunk via license plate removal and use a small implement (screwdriver, wire hanger) to trigger the trunk release (?)

 

Good luck with that: I fished nearly 2 hours with a hooked rod and only succeeded in knocking the boot-open sensor loose. I sprayed in the lock and all up in those 2 holes liberally with PB Blaster 10 minutes later, it popped open with the key! Make sure you are not using the green valet key.



You are trying to pull this to the left of the picture/right of the car. (view is looking aft)


Here's a view looking to the latch from the key side:

 

Thanks for the photos - very helpful so I can figure out what's left / right / up / down, when I attempt to fish through the license plate holes to snag the lever

Unfortunately, my key doesn't work, hence, the immense challenge.

 

Thanks go to Zane and RJ.

I finally got around to try to open the trunk (been busy doing brakes on a couple of my bikes).

Took the license plate off and the 2 lower "slotted" holes were covered up with a heavy tape material. Exposed the slots with razor blade, then using a rod with a 90 degree bend at one end, fished around for the latch (went in through left hole), found something solid, then pushed firmly to the right... clunk !.

It took less than two minutes to open it.

Battery is a bit low - on the bench charging now.

Also, my theory about the trunk light stayed lit (even though trunk was closed), thus draining the battery, may be true. I pulled the bulb from its base - the plastic base is slightly "charred" as if the bulb was lit for very long time.

 

Great work! I never even tried pushing from the left hole. My working postulate was to grab it with the hook and pull it to the right. I grabbed several things.....or one thing lots of times...but nothing that "gave" when I pulled on it. Guess I should've tried the other hole.....

Neither a fun nor ergonomically healthy activity sitting in the boot with the bootlid resting on your head to mess with it....but you should try to free up that key mechanism while you have it open......
(I fit a lock-wire pull tab to my "spare" XJ using a small constant-tension hose clamp...to prevent future frustrations until I get round to mending the electric release)

 

I actually removed the key tumbler, because the key would not turn it (hoping I could fix it). Even with the tumbler in hand with key, it won't turn. The tumbler appears to be made mostly of hardened aluminum, so I suspect the "pins" have worn - I can get the tumbler to turn, by manually manipulating the pins.

Guess it's time to make a trip down the road to Motorcars LTD.