Hi. So long since I have had any problems I couldn't fix, but this one has stopped me. I went to start my car yesterday but the engine wouldn't crank over. Silence. No red backlight in P or N, but red light back lit for R and D. The gear stick will shift out of Park, and a light tap can be hears behind the dash as the start only in Park switch is activated and the gear stick moved in and out of Park. I've had the ski slope off, and nothing suggests the switch is loose. Should there be any sign/tap from the relay behind the L/H headlight when the ignition switch is turned to start? I charged the battery up, so it's not that. All advice appreciated.

 

Please take note of the description of this section:
Please post your question in the relevant section based on what vehicle your topic concerns. I would normally move your thread, but it's not certain which vehicle your post is concerns.

 

This is getting plenty of Views but no technical Replies.

Although you don't say which vehicle, it's got to be one of your X300's so I've moved your question from Jaguar Forums Feedback & Suggestion Centre to X300 forum.

Graham

 

NO Red P or N, NO start.

The Linear switch has died.

Both mine did that, and the XJ6 responded to a good clean and light relube. The R, nope, new switch from SNG in the UK.

Sometimes, working the lever all the way thru the all the gates, including the :"j": section will revive it for a short time, but not always.

Good luck

 

Hi Jens boy,

If you're asking about the XJR, your Park-Neutral start-inhibit function is in the linear switch as Graham mentioned. If you're inquiring about the normally-aspirated X300, it will have the ZF 4HP24 transmission and your Park-Neutral start-inhibit switches will be in the rotary switch on the left side of the gearbox. A good maintenance item is to disconnect the main electrical connector at the rear of the transmission and flush both halves with zero-residue electronic cleaner. Oil contamination can wreak havoc with transmission communications.

Also check the gear selector cable where it connects to the rotary switch. The cable is known to stretch, and the right-angle fitting that connects the cable to the rotary switch is known to corrode and develop slop. The ball of the ball-and-socket joint can become so loose that it pops out of the socket.

If neither of the above corrects the issue, the cover of the rotary switch can be removed and the gold pads can be cleaned with a soft pencil eraser and electronic cleaner.

Cheers,

Don

 

The Starter solenoid relay is looking for a ground command to close the power contacts

This closes the power contacts in the solenoid so the big power will rotate the starter colored in Red in the pic

This ground path is colored in Blue in the pic

Easiest thing to check is if the starter solenoid relay clicks with your finger on it and not just listening as others in the area

Even though it may click correctly doesn't mean the power contacts in the relay are good enough to carry the needed current for starter operation

See page 17 and 20 of the doc below

You can swap this relay with the Fog light or headlights relay

The rotary switch on the underside of the car left side transmission body ins delicate fingers on it that can get contaminated

Cleaning the contacts is no problem but resealing it with the old expanded o - ring is problematic

Suggestions welcome

Note : check that the 2 terminal nuts on the fuse link just fwd of the battery positive post did not come loose , these 2 nuts are in the box going down











Editing

 

Thanks for all your advice. I decided to try for power to the starter motor solenoid. Not much room, I'd hate to have to change the starter motor. However, after fiddling around with the white wire where I could, I absent mindedly turned the key and the motor fired up. I tried it a few more times to make sure. I think there was a dry joint or some corrosion that I disturbed with my fumbling. Thanks all.

 

AHA, the "fiddle factor fix".

Works well, and lasts as long as it lasts.

Good luck.

 

Behind the valve cover with the 3 connectors and the water intrusion with the 2 being the rear O2 sensors I found my O2 sensor connectors green and corroded and later cleaned

A lesson in a 20 + year old car clean up to bringing it running like a top

There was a mod somewhere along the way of relocating the 3 connectors

I think mine was already done

Never underestimating the value in fiddling to cleanse it of issues

Power to the White solenoid wire rocks in your quest to be a Jaguar problem solver