Somehow I never fail to be amazed by the capacity of this car to throw up one problem after another! Having just crossed the front damper top mounts off of the to-do list, in doing them I've discovered my subframe mounts are shot. They were fine a few weeks ago - I'm sure it's just that the car's determined that the list will never get shorter!

I'm getting too used to sitting in the front wheelarches; In the last few months I've done track rod ends, balljoints, bearings, upper wishbone bushes, shock mounts, as well as all of the brakes (inc. calipers)!

So apart from the obvious (and rather worrying) rusted-in-bolt nightmare that may or may not occur, is the process straightforward enough?

 

I've collecting all the parts needed to do a complete front end rebuild. Seems easier to do it all at once, get a new pair of front tires, then a front end alignment.

 

That's definitely the nicer option! I'm getting there though - & it's really the only option for me as I need the car to be on the road pretty much uninterrupted...

 

luckily, mine is the extra car

 

If only my extra car was on the road!

 

So should I take the lack of horror stories to mean that it's simple, easy, and nothing can go wrong?!

 

Other than the possibility of the 4 hex bolts (or torx on later models) securing the Vee Mount to the Crossbeam being seized, it's straightforward but heavy engineering!

Graham

 

Exactly, if only my other extra car was onthe road... it would be way too cold to drive it.

 

That's true... now contemplating what exactly needs to be separated to replace these! Is the easiest way to unbolt the mounts and raise the body, leaving the subframe & engine on the ground? Is there sufficient play to make that work? Do you need to undo the shocks from the body? Gearbox mounts?

 

I supported the body and engine on stands with a block of wood a across the sump. Then compressed the springs and dropped the frame. It was quite a big job and awkward to get back in position. New mounts mazes big difference though.

 

+1

The important thing is:

1. to support the weight of the body (axle stands under the front jacking points is a good choice.

2. support the weight of the engine

3. avoid crunching the fan into the radiator

Lacking an engine crane or an engine support bracket at the time, I used this unusual approach to support the engine:



In this instance it was to replace the engine oil sump so a little extra 'insurance' was needed!

Graham

 

Hmmm. I've got an engine crane, but I'm starting to think that this might be one of those jobs that I regret starting! Perhaps a call to my local specialists might be in order...

 

I hung the engine from a bar using the exhaust manifold (you can buy a special bracket), dropped the car on the lift until the subframe was on a trolley, undid the vee mounts and engine mounts and lifted the car up, leaving the complete subframe assembly behind. I think we first had to remove the shocks and springs - for that you'll need the spring compressor sold by SPX or rented out by the JEC.

The reverse was a complete PITA, but at least I have a freshly painted subframe, wishbones and all new bushes.

Now for the back end!

 

You do have to disconnect the Shocks at the top (and it's a lot easier to manoeuvre the suspension assembly if they are removed) but don't need to remove the springs if your are dropping the front suspension out:



They remain compressed between the Spring Pan and the Upper Wishbone.

Graham

 

Of course! I hadn't originally contemplated needing to compress the springs - glad to see that I don't actually have to!

Now other than the engine potentially hitting the rad (I need to do the rad mounts anyway, so that can just come out!), is it too optimistic to hope that I might not need to separate the engine from the subframe either???

When I did the shock mounts, the shot subframe mounts allowed the subframe to drop a bit (confirming that they are indeed shot!). I'm now wondering how far it could 'drop' if the subframe mounts (and shocks) were unbolted and the body jacked up, leaving the wheels on the floor...

Somebody tell me what I'm missing?!

 

Nobody? Go on - I'm sure there's some reason it won't work!

 

I had heard people say that you can slide them out, but in my experience access to the subframe/vmount bolts is tight and they might be hard to get out. The top flange of the vmount also has stubs on the bolt holes which go into the body, from memory they where about an inch long.

 

A rumour that it might be possible is enough for me to be silly enough to want to try it, or at least see whether I can get the bolts out!

If it wasn't for the 'stubs' that stick up, it would surely be relatively simple (again if the bolts come out) - you wouldn't need to create much clearance then...

 

YES - the red arrowed section on the top of the Vee Mount:



These are the problem. The Cross Beam doesn't drop sufficiently to allow them to clear.

A timber wedge between the body and the Cross Beam makes it just possible if you are in a desperate hurry.

Remember, if the Vee Mounts have split apart it's a lot easier to get the old ones out than it is to get the new ones in!

Graham