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The professional spring compression tool can be barrowed at an auto parts store against your cradit card , I saw 2 different compression tool versions when I used one on a different car
They have a dedicated tool loaning program as like 40 different tools in their each jobers plastic cases
The single treaded shaft version is a different story , if you build one yourself , are the threads strong enough to not let loose and hurt you
Last edited by Parker 7; May 29, 2024 at 04:24 PM.
One thing I noted from @watto700 is that I need the compressor tool. However if I am pulling the entire subframe I will not need to compress the springs?
You absolutely need to secure the springs, if you drop the subframe, all that will be holding the springs are ball joints and they can pop, release the spring and the spring will kill instantly if you're in the way.
If you have a look at Parker's post #14 above there is a pic of a completely built up front suspension so it looks like you could remove the whole subframe intact with the shocks still attached. But if you are going to replace the bushings etc you will still need to compress the springs and remove them before you undo anything else or it will twang and you'll come to grief.
When I rebuilt my front suspension I removed the springs, brake calipers and steering rack before I removed the subframe basically to lighten the load and make things more manageable. I thought that as I was replacing all the bushes and balljoints I may as well replace the subframe mounts at the same time though you could rebuild the moving parts of the suspension with the subframe still in the car.
Standard spring compressors cannot be safely used on the Jaguar XJ40/X300/X308 front springs because of the curved state of the springs when installed.
See Jeff's post for the threaded rod style of compressor that works on these Jaguars. This tool can be made with about 18 inches of heavy threaded rod (I used 20 mm metric thread high-tensile-strength rod from McMaster-Carr, but many owners have used standard 3/4" SAE rod), a high tensile strength 1/4" dowel pin inserted through a hole drilled across the upper end of the threaded rod, a stack of thick 2" O.D. washers, and one or two nuts that fit the threaded rod.
I went a little overboard and drilled a 2" steel ball bearing and added dished washers to ride on the ball as the thrust device because I wanted to be able to use the tool for years on multiple vehicles. I used metric threaded rod because I knew I wanted to buy a large ratcheting wrench to speed up the compression/decompression process, and since nearly all the vehicles I work on are metric, I wanted to buy a metric wrench (this one is 30 mm):
Alternately, some owners have cut four 8-inch lengths of 8 mm threaded rod, and used one rod each to replace the lower spring pan screws one at a time, threading a nut up to hold the spring pan in place. Once all four rods are installed, the nuts can be alternately loosened a little at a time, which will allow the spring pan to lower and the spring to decompress.
If you have a look at Parker's post #14 above there is a pic of a completely built up front suspension so it looks like you could remove the whole subframe intact with the shocks still attached. But if you are going to replace the bushings etc you will still need to compress the springs and remove them before you undo anything else or it will twang and you'll come to grief.
(...)
Go carefully whatever you decide to do.
Cheers,
Jeff.
I've talked to people and read stories of people getting seriously injured(permanent brain damage) when hit with these springs because they didn't secure them hence not securing springs when dropping subframe should always be treated as extremely dangerous advise. Old ball joints can easily pop out of socket when disturbed, bumped and that much force is applied to them and that spring is definitely deadly to anyone in their way so when dropping subframe they always need to be secured, as the car body and shock no longer holds it in place, with either straps, basic compressors(just to secure them, you wont be able to use them to install the spring later) or ideally with a Jag compressor. The latter can be easily made from a threaded rod(M10 or M12), dowel pin, a stack of washers and a long nut, exactly like one in Don pic. I do suggest using a long nut though as that allowed me to weld couple of handles which helps a lot. I also strongly recommend using thrust washers, it makes things much easier.
You can also use long bolts technique with an extra nut in place of original pan bolts to compress/decompress the whole thing, like Don describes, it just takes half hour to do it this way, instead of couple minutes with a compressor.
Many of our forum members have used standard hardware store threaded rod without reported issues, but I wanted my compressor to be useful for many years, so I used 20 mm Class 10.9 rod with a tensile strength of 150,000 psi, compared to standard low-strength SAE 3/4"-16 rod with a tensile strength of 50,000 psi (which is probably more than adequate for limited use). Class 12.9 rod would have been even better, but was prohibitively expensive.
Probably more important than the grade of threaded rod is the grade of the 6 mm or 1/4" dowel pin used to lock the assembly in the upper spring pan. I started with standard taper pins, but they deformed under the pressure of the springs, so I ordered the highest-strength taper pins McMaster-Carr offered at the time, with a breaking strength of 54,000 psi:
M-C also has a wide selection of suitable nuts in high-strength or longer coupling types that you could weld handles to as katar83 mentioned, which mimics the official Jaguar special tool.
For washers, you don't necessarily need high-grade ones, since there is not much chance of them dishing under pressure against the lower spring pan. But I like the heavy washers sold by the pound at Tractor Supply stores. A stack of about 8 to 12 of these 1/8"-thick washers will lower the nut sufficiently below the spring pan to make it easier to turn the nut.
Does anyone know what tool to use to remove the front subframe bushings? Does Jaguar have a special tool, or is there an easier way to do it? All bushing removal tools are only 9 inches wide, and you need something just a little bigger to get them out.
I have always used a hydraulic press, but a threaded-rod style bushing replacement kit might work. Check Harbor Freight to see if they have a kit with suitably-sized cups and discs.
One trick is to saw through the spokes of the rubber core and remove it. Then use a hack saw to saw a kerf just through the outer rim of the bushing, but not into the subframe. This makes it much easier to press out the old bushing rim.
I don't know if my photos of the front suspension work are still up at Jag-Lovers - check the link in my signature.
Hi Don, your spring compressor looks good and the detailed pictures of the construction are great.
Where did you get the dished washers and what material specification are they?
Hi Don, your spring compressor looks good and the detailed pictures of the construction are great.
Where did you get the dished washers and what material specification are they?
Hi V126man,
I'm fairly certain that I got the dished washers at McMaster-Carr. I don't recall whether there were any options regarding the steel quality, but I believe these are hardened steel. I apply grease before each use to help the ball bearing to tilt freely in the concave areas of the washers as the spring pan is lowered.
Unless you will need to use the compressor on multiple cars over many years, I would recommend not going to the (considerable) difficulty of annealing the 2" ball bearing to soften it so a 3/4" hole can be drilled through for the threaded rod. For a compressor that will see limited use, it's far easier and just as effective to use a stack of heavy washers as the thrust device. I like the thick washers sold by the pound at Tractor Supply Co. stores. If I recall correctly, you need washers with an inside diameter to fit your threaded rod, and an outside diameter in the range of 2" or a little more to seat in the recess in the lower spring pan.
It's all done, finally. I recommend that if you are a member of the JCNA, you get all the tools from them, especially the spring compressor. I made my own that made it easy to take off the springs, but the real deal tool works so much better for putting it back in. After all the bushings and all the bearings in the front were changed, the front of the car rides like a dream. Now the back... next project.
If anyone is thinking of doing this pm me. Have a lot of extra parts that are not needed for cheap. Long story. I also have a few homemade spring compressors that are no longer needed that I am willing to give up for just shipping
