I suspect the fuel pump is still working, but the pump strainer, or filter sock might be clogged up. So basically it allows fuel to seep in, but too clogged to allow the volume of of fuel it needs to run.

Obviously I would never recommend replacing the sick, or strainer without replacing the pump as well. I think we’re almost there…

 

Genuine Fuel Tank-3.2/4.0 Litre-normally Aspirated-unleaded-not Usa (3.2 Litre,4.0 Litre)(less Usa,unleaded Fuel) For Jaguar Xj 1995 - 1997 (from 720125 To 812255) (x300) Classic | Jaguar Land Rover Classic Parts

 

Thanks Vee I am hoping this is the case. New pump comes with the sock - some don't but I made sure I chose one that did.

Just ordered cordless Dremel and Speedclick discs to open the hole in the parcel shelf - I actually need one anyway as since the drive is blocked I decided to fix my BMW E61 525d which needs a DPF - this car is at my work. Could we get the rusty bolts off? Nope so need the Dremel for that anyway.

Fingers crossed!

 

Notice the different pictures of the tank parts that has the running loss valve with the 3 ended line , in the cjassic jaguar parts

and the 2 different versions on page 60

801S TITLE

And in the large repair guide page X

coming

 

Afternoon all

I am still waiting for the pump and filter. I have a whole XJ6 3.2 at the moment in our workshop that we got last week minus the cats that someone had stolen and kicked the wing mirrors off. Nice. Anyway it was supplied with a used set of cats so we put that together and some wing mirrors that we had on a shelf to make it whole again. Runs well. Nice red colour as well - XJ6 Sport. Unfortunately its not one for me as it is on Spanish plates and I am Gibraltar resident so I cannot drive a Spanish car. However I did decide to repeat my fuel pressure test on this today just to see how it compared. Exactly the same - just over 40psi on prime, around 36psi running, rising to over 40psi on throttle being blipped or pressed down hard. The only difference with how this behaved and how mine behaved is that on blipping the throttle my pressure went up but fluttered as the engine died. So I am not convinced at this point that my fuel pressure is bad - but that will become clear in due course.

I did mess about disconnecting things to see if I can replicate my problem - MAF, then throttle body, then TPS, air intake temp. Seemed to run fine except when I disconnected the coolant temp plug - the one with the metal clip not the single wire next to it - the car would not start up straight away then spluttered into life after a long crank. So I "borrowed" that and tried it on mine - no change.

Strangely today it actually idled on its own after I gradually let the revs drop down, for a good 10-15 seconds before shutting down.

I think next week I will take all the plugs and coils from the running car and swap them over to see if that makes any difference given it was when I changed the plugs the problems started. Meanwhile the Champion plugs are coming with the pump/filter so this will be a decent test in the meantime.

Any other "swapsies" you may suggest feel free - already tried the intake boot and MAF so I won't repeat that one.

 

On Cat replacement there is a O2 sensor / connector position map that if you swapped the positions will have an effect on engine running

You can easily just swap the upper engine connectors if not correct

When you pull the 2 wire coolant temp sensor connector the reading to the ECU is high resistance or cold coolant , this can be too high resistance and out of expected range so the ECU rejects ( ? ) the sensor signal

You should be in open loop anyway on cold engine start , there is a calibration chart on the ECT as they do go bad and maybe the barrowed one as well

36 PSI on running

For a cold engine a basic meter ECT reading is around 1800 ohms and 88 C closed loop tripping point around 275 off the top of my head

On this engine there are 2 engine rotation sensors , the normal Crankshaft position sensor and a Camshaft position sensor ( only used for start as the hockey puck on the top fwd engine right )

In the beginning the CMPS is used and then reverts to the CKPS , there is a CMPS mount adjustment but none for the CKPS

If the CMPS sensor connector is removed ( CEL code P0340 ) the engine will start with the CKPS but takes more revolutions

The CMPS sensor ( a hall effect sensor ) will read 600 ohms as a basic meter reading and the CKPS 1300 ohms ( inductor )

This has to do with the CMPS can see each cylinder TDC vs. only # 1 with the CKPS

You might wipe down the face of the CKPS sensor of oily grime that can interferer with the CKPS signal , this is different than connector clean

36 PSI on running ( idle ) is too low and should respond in the reverse direction of higher fuel pressure on throttle up ( vacuum changes )

So 43 idle , 47 throttle up

 

Hi Parker - its been a long thread so apologies if I am confusing matters: my last post refers to a completely different car that I used just to compare fuel testing - thats the car we did the cats on - so with my own car the cats have not been touched. To recap on whats been done to MY car so far:

Problem: starts but only just splutters into life if I gently feather the throttle. Once running I can keep it running with gentle throttle. I can increase the RPM's with gently increasing the throttle. I can hold RPMs at any rev points as long as I want - even to the point the car warms up stationary. If I press the throttle down it will bog out and die. If I reduce the RPM's to idle it will run - now between a few seconds to up to 15 seconds and switch off, literally as though I turned the key off. When running on feathered throttle there are no misfires - runs very smooth. Not driveable since it is necessary to use light throttle just to keep it running

When did it happen: changed the plugs. Changed the oil. Oil vacuumed out through dipstick tube. To get to the filter, removed intake boot and MAF. Before refitting gave the throttle body blast of brake cleaner and MAF as well.

What's been done since:

Fuel pressure test: although it has been said that in the video I posted above it shows low pressure and I have now ordered a replacement filter and pump, the pressure test I did today on the identical car (the one we fitted cats to) shows the same readings. So if they are low this is possibly just my pressure tester. They are however like for like

Fuel regulator: checked vacuum line - dry. Swapped regulator with another one. No change

Crank sensor: replaced with new

Cam sensor: adjusted so the indent is in the circle, checked connector - no difference

Connectors to MAF, TPS, TB, CKPS etc: all checked, cleaned with contact cleaner

Coils: replaced one that looked cracked with one I had on the shelf. Checked wiring. Checked connectors

Fuel pump relay: bypassed to have it continuously running - no difference

ECU relay: swapped with a/c clutch relay - no difference. Checked wiring and plugs in that area - all fine

MAF: swapped with known good one, no difference

Coolant temp sensor: swapped with known good one, no difference

Intake boot with IAT: swapped with known good one, no difference

Codes: nothing except an immobiliser code that doesn't even relate to this model and having researched looks like a red herring.

Since I have a whole running car now at my disposal I can swap things about, albeit I have to drive 5kms to go and take bits off it back to my house. Hence the idea to swap all coils and plugs off that running car and rule that out. I have ordered new Champion plugs - those in it now are Stark, brand new have have tried both the 0.9mm gap they came with (correct gap) and 7.75mm to see if that changed things - no change.

All suggestions welcome. One point I would make is that the effect of pressing the throttle and causing it to stall out is much more pronounced if I do so at lower RPM - say 2,500. When I do that the engine bogs out and stalls with a quick flicker of check engine light. If I do the same at say 4000 rpm this is much less pronounced almost sounding normal. In my mind this would point to a vacuum leak/unmetered air giving a lean condition causing the stall since at high RPM such a leak would be less relevant in terms of unmetered air vs metered air. But I have checked the intake boots and it has no cracks or tears - plus I have tried a known good intake boot. Real head scratcher this one

Thanks again
Sam.

 

Read your resent post and takes some time to response as Wifi issues or website issues

An under fuel pressure would cause all kinds of issues in throttle ranges if present , so looking for accurate fuel pressure gauge and I see your current gauge reads the same on both cars

I don't think you have adjusted the TPS mount but don't just yet

Have you done a full range TPS sweep check against a meter to see if you have a bad TPS ?

 

Thanks Parker - yes I would concur - fuel pressure comparison could be inconclusive as conducted so far even though the readings were the same as tested. Since the new pump and filter are anyway due to arrive next week this is something that will become obvious anyway: filter has never been changed during my ownership so that needs doing anyway and the pump swap will rule that out as well.

In terms of the TPS no I have not checked that with the scanner yet - thats on the still to do list along with checking the ECU plugs. Is it feasible on this car to swap the TPS with the one on the running car? What about idle control valve - does it have a swappable ICV or I would need to try the whole throttle body off the running car to check it?

 

The IAC can be swapped but the small 5.5 mm bolts can snap off and little socket wall clearance as TB is installed on engine , heat from inside the TB to loosen the loctited threads

The TPS with a scanner will read 13 % on full idle stop position

There is a EGR position error reading as PID label EGR_ERROR , target 0 but not perfect as it changes

In TPS swapping you can get lost as the TPS and ECU for each car set are " matched " by a orientation device so not recommended without this device

You have to tell the ECU what the idle stop TPS sensor " null value " is but this has nothing to do with full range readings

At the idle stop the TPS will read on paper 0.60 + or - 0;02 volts DC on the middle wire of the TPS connector as it is still installed , wire color Green / Yellow , you can nick the insulation as the wire comes over the fuel rail , key in run position , engine not running

The classic TPS meter check is for resistance smooth change as you very slowly open the throttle , best with old school needle meter

ECU connector sockets can certainly cause issues and look for 2 pinching tabs for the sockets and a slight tug on the wires coming out of connector

 

See post # 56 as the X300 and X308 is the same

" After pressing the schrader valve a few times "

The X300 does not have this feature unfortunately

Fuel pump swap - Page 3 - Jaguar Forums - Jaguar Enthusiasts Forum

 

Evening all

As part of my attempts to get my car to work properly again I am going to change the plugs again, this time for the Champion ones and also the fuel filter and fuel pump.

I am doing this the time-served way from above not removing the tank. Hopefully given the age of the car someone has already cut the shelf but if not I have my new cordless Dremel to sort that out.

Once I can the retaining ring off and can see the pump down in the tank how does it come out - I can see on photos there is a metal bracket with a rubber part that the pump slides through. Do I just pull the pump through that circular rubber piece or remove the bracket itself and disassemble on the bench? If so how is the metal bracket fixed into the tank on the X300?

Any tips and advice gratefully received.

TIA

 

I haven't done a pump change but try to not damage or dislodge or tear in half the vibration rubber surround clamp

Maybe full clamp removal is recommended by others that have done it , gets to better safe then sorry

Maybe open a new tread titled Fuel Pump Replacement or such to get viewers attention different then the opening subject

 

Hi Parker 7 - yes good idea, this threads a bit involved now for something general and specific so yes I will do exactly that but then report back to this one when (HOPEFULLY!) I reach a conclusion to my woes!

 

Well its time to close this thread now. I want to thank everyone for all the help and advice especially Parker 7 and Vee but everyone else who replied as well. Its been quite a journey but I am pleased to say the car is now running and driving again.

Today I changed the fuel pump - I'll give details of exactly what my experience of this was like in the specific thread I opened yesterday. There was I would guess about 20 litres of fuel still in the tank. Given the very brown colour of the filter-sock on the old pump which suggested it has been sitting in old fuel at certain times, I used a cheap battery powered pump to completely empty the tank out into a large jerry can. When I then tipped this into a large white bucket for disposal I could see it was quite a yellow colour - and bit like a certain bodily fluid!! So new pump in, put about 25 litres of new fuel in. I also fitted the Champion plugs to replace the new Stark plugs I used previously as I ordered these with the pump and filter. Primed it about 6 times on the key and hey presto runs properly again, idles fine, revs up fine.

So I'll never know whether it was the pump or the fuel or poor spark from the Stark plugs or a combination of issues - I am not going to spend any time swapping things back at this stage to check because even if it was just an issue with the plugs, I am glad the tank now has no crappy fuel in it and the pump is brand new. Filter I didn't do yet because even though I have it the car is now on the side of the road opposite my house and in Spain it is illegal to work on a car in the public street so I'll get the car into either my garage our workshop and do that next weekend.

So the moral of the story? Well I guess there are several:

- Don't give up - I came very close at times
- Get good advice - nobody can realistically diagnose a car on a forum but this forum has people who have huge experience and knowledge to help work through the issue
- Collect spare parts - I was lucky to have access to a whole other car so I was able to swap and test things like MAF, intake boot, CTS etc. which saved me a lot of money
- Use the right plugs - Champion
- Don't let the tank sit with old fuel

Over and out!

 

Well done Sam for not giving up, and reporting back!
So many people never finish a thread..........

Happy driving
Peter

 

 

Congratulations, Sam! Your persistence paid off!

And thanks to our forum members who stuck with you through the journey!

Cheers,

Don