Hesitation on WOT (FUEL FILTER REPLACE) 1997 VDP

I have had WOT issues for about 2 weeks.....I started troubleshooting with the simplest things first.....well kinda.....

since changing the FUEL FILTER requires taking to a place with a lift, a pit, or somebody to crawl underneath the vehicle the Fuel Filter would be or should be the first thing unless you already have done that......

i didn't have time to get mine in anywhere to get the filter changed so I started in the engine compartment to start with, still simple but more than the filter.

I took the plugs out and checked those and replaced them as they looked decent for 15, 000 miles or so but the 6th plug hole had very little oil in it but the plug was very well dry.

I had already about 16,000 miles ago or even less replaced the cam cover (found one in the UK for 80 US dollars shipped! the gut really did me a good favor however mine is OK but the hole castings are not perfect but seal OK with the gaskets but his looked better than mine so I got it......put on the cam cover gasket with half moons made in this one. I also replaced bolts hole boots, spark plug hole gaskets, coil gaskets, used coils on low mileage XJS that was wrecked and parted out, mine was not checked after having oil in plug hole 1, 2 3, none in 4,5 or 6 so i just went ahead and got those coils but mine were good. Replaced coil on boots with new aluminum rods w/ springs but used my old ones.....seemed like they were made a little better.

The reason i did all of this was because of a little mistake that lead into a good thing, not spending the money however wasn't but was very reasonable for everything.....

I put on an ANDY STODART BRACKET but purchased his to start with because i used a 30" extension bar on taking off the old crankshaft position sensor bracket, the 10MM bolt only needs just a regular socket or wrench with no extension as the torque broke my stock bracket and was hard to find one at the time so i purchased Andy's. Me being in a hurry, put the bracket upside down of which put the sensor in a total different place and it would not crank but i fired a few times so kept trying to crank it so i thought it may have threw it out of complete timing so i pulled the plugs and found the oil in the plug holes so that is why i went through all of that work.

I warped the first bracket from Andy as i didn't watch a YouTube video of installing it and Andy didn't send any instructions on the position of the new bracket as it will mount either way but looks more normal in the upside position the way the bracket looked but didn't pay any attention to the location and the distance from the missing teeth in the crank or the dimple in the cam sensor through the sight glass, so I learned a lot my own self from not watching closely enough.

I got another Stodart Bracket, installed it correctly, with new plugs and all the other items and fired first time and ran like a CAT should......

So back to the FUEL FILTER REPLACEMENT, after i changed the pugs, cleaning the MASS air flow sensor, changing the idle air temp, cleaned the TB, I still had the hesitation and was still needing to do the Fuel Filter....bought a pressure sensor for the fuel (didn't need it) after replacing the fuel filter.

Doing it yourself:
1 I backed the vehicle up on 2 ramps put on top of each other to achieve more height on the drive side as the Filter is parallel with the rear tire inside the frame if looking to the other side toward the left wheel it is about 2 feet inside the driver side wheel with a bracket over it.

2. i scotched the wheels and put jack stands under the left side for safety and then slid on my back just very little from the back driver side corner of the vehicle and was within arms length of the filter.

3. I looked at which was the arrow was pointing and remember that i points toward the driver side rear wheel to remember the flow.

4. I then had to finds the exact size of the nuts on the bracket and for the fuel filter flange nuts.....(seems people have problems here).

5. The 2 nits on the left and right side of the bracket is 10MM. the one in the middle is an 8MM. knowing this is a huge plus. I used extensions and sockets for the bracket.

6. The Fuel Filter Nuts was 5/8 standard. I used 2, putting one of the flange bolt and the loosened the one closes to the wheel which is the OUT line....Then using your hand twist the filter off with the 5/8 on the nut to hold the line from turning. I was very easy.

7. Putting the new filter on, put the one end which s the in side twisting the filter on that nut with the 5/8 wrench holding it, and then using both wrenches tightened the out side or the arrow pointing side. I DID USE MY OLD O-RINGS still on the line which were still good and with no leaks.

8. I put the 30amp fuel pump fuse and relay back in as I pulled those prior to removing the filter and let the vehicle die cutting off the fuel and the car died.

9. I turned the key switch on so the pump would come on (you can hear the whine) 3 times on and off before i cranked the vehicle which it primed the filter.

10. I checked for leaks on those fittings with none and test drove the CAT and she ran like a leapard, I didn't have any hesitation and WOT was unbelievable.

11. ENJOY.

 

Are those standard O Rings or are they special? I just did mine "95 XJR and just used a standard O Ring.
Snowball

 

The Jag Original O-rings, if they are still on the fuel line, leave them alone. If you are replacing filter because of leaking of course replace the O-rings...any O-ring listed as for any fuel line will be fine if you can find matching O-rings if they (caliper out the same) fit over the fuel line.

The fuel line (factory) is flanged on each end of the in and out going into the filter. In the filter, if you look into either end you will see that there is a valley that the fuel line will seat down inside of the filter then the O-ring seats or snugs up when you tighten the flange nut. it doesn't take but a small amount of tightening, just snug it up.When you feel resistance of course don't cross thread your fitting when screwing the threads back into the filter threads, so when you get the line seated just snug it up , don't keep turned until you can't turn it no more as that is way to much.


But yes, you can use a O-ring just be sure it is for fuel. Some rubber for a dry or air line are made of a different rubber and not fuel resistant and will breakdown in short order. If you are close to a "Caterpillar" store or a heavy equipment store or garage, go there. In the mechanics shop they will keep O-rings on hand for their fuel systems for their machines. I worked for Caterpillar so I know this 100% for sure.